neilestrick

The 4 elements in each section are wired in parallel, so if one goes out they all do. Assuming that's the problem, first unplug the kiln, open the control box, and check for any fried out wiring connections, especially where the elements are wired together, and where the feeder wires for that section connect to the elements and the other end where they connect to the control box. If you don't see any obvious issues there, then you can check the elements for continuity if you have a multi-meter, or you'll need to inspect the elements for a break. It could just be a little spot that fried out somewhere on an element. A meter would make the whole process faster, as you can quickly check if there's a break somewhere in an element by putting the probes at the ends of the series and seeing if there's a connection. And if you can't find the break then you can unhook all the elements and use the meter to determine which one has failed. But you can try all the visual inspections first and if you don't find anything then get a cheap digital meter at the hardware store.

I'm having these moments almost daily since I'm trying out a bunch of new hand building and decorating techniques. I'm amazed and proud of myself every time something works out the way I hoped it would, or I discover a way to make the process faster or more successful. I haven't had this much growth in such a short time since I first started making pots. I'm having a great time!

I'm having these moments almost daily since I'm trying out a bunch of new hand building and decorating techniques. I'm amazed and proud of myself every time something works out the way I hoped it would, or I discover a way to make the process faster or more successful. I haven't had this much growth in such a short time since I first started making pots. I'm having a great time!

You can definitely do a hold manually, but if you need the hold temp to be accurate then it's not going to be as simple as just turning it down to a lower setting. You'd have to watch the pyrometer and make adjustments to the dial as needed. Doable for sure, but a hassle and it'll take up your time. Plus from a setup standpoint, just plugging into a wall mount system is much less intimidating than adding a switch for most people.

Light Dome makes light poles that span the top of the canopy. Go to their page HERE and look at the menu on the left.
And thank you for the kind words!

Light Dome makes light poles that span the top of the canopy. Go to their page HERE and look at the menu on the left.
And thank you for the kind words!

Those cones are very close in terms of evenness. I wouldn't expect them to be any more even than that. If you're going for a full cone 6 then a 5-10 minute hold ought to do it.

A 15-20 minute hold equals 1 cone hotter, so yet, the hold will increase heat work on the rest of the kiln, too. I would first try loading the middle of the kiln tighter and loading the top looser. Put low mass pieces up top, like wide bowls.  If that doesn't work, I would try firing a cone lower and holding for 15-20 minutes to achieve the next cone.

Those cones are very close in terms of evenness. I wouldn't expect them to be any more even than that. If you're going for a full cone 6 then a 5-10 minute hold ought to do it.

You can't just fire clay in a microwave, so do you mean using one of those microwave kilns? I supposed it's doable, but the ring is going to be far from durable since you're not going to vitrify the clay. Also, for safety reason you shouldn't be using a microwave you use for food. IMO, there are a lot of other materials out there that would be better suited for making a ring, but if you're going to do it I would at least make it from a fine-grained clay that vitrifies, like a good cone 6 porcelain, which will require an actual kiln. This is an excellent opportunity to justify the purchase of a baby test kiln if your budget allows for it. Test kilns are worth every dollar if you're the type of artist who does a lot of experimenting and glaze testing.

What type of canopy? Popup?

There are also a couple of folks I've seen on Instagram that make them on a small lathe, or you could rig up sander or a drill like this: https://www.instagram.com/p/CrVlWVTqvYx/.  Lots of materials could be worked that way, not just wood, but wood would be the simplest. I built the rim for my banjo using a jig and a drum sander.

 

You can't just fire clay in a microwave, so do you mean using one of those microwave kilns? I supposed it's doable, but the ring is going to be far from durable since you're not going to vitrify the clay. Also, for safety reason you shouldn't be using a microwave you use for food. IMO, there are a lot of other materials out there that would be better suited for making a ring, but if you're going to do it I would at least make it from a fine-grained clay that vitrifies, like a good cone 6 porcelain, which will require an actual kiln. This is an excellent opportunity to justify the purchase of a baby test kiln if your budget allows for it. Test kilns are worth every dollar if you're the type of artist who does a lot of experimenting and glaze testing.

You can't just fire clay in a microwave, so do you mean using one of those microwave kilns? I supposed it's doable, but the ring is going to be far from durable since you're not going to vitrify the clay. Also, for safety reason you shouldn't be using a microwave you use for food. IMO, there are a lot of other materials out there that would be better suited for making a ring, but if you're going to do it I would at least make it from a fine-grained clay that vitrifies, like a good cone 6 porcelain, which will require an actual kiln. This is an excellent opportunity to justify the purchase of a baby test kiln if your budget allows for it. Test kilns are worth every dollar if you're the type of artist who does a lot of experimenting and glaze testing.

Those cones are very close in terms of evenness. I wouldn't expect them to be any more even than that. If you're going for a full cone 6 then a 5-10 minute hold ought to do it.

A 15-20 minute hold equals 1 cone hotter, so yet, the hold will increase heat work on the rest of the kiln, too. I would first try loading the middle of the kiln tighter and loading the top looser. Put low mass pieces up top, like wide bowls.  If that doesn't work, I would try firing a cone lower and holding for 15-20 minutes to achieve the next cone.

A 15-20 minute hold equals 1 cone hotter, so yet, the hold will increase heat work on the rest of the kiln, too. I would first try loading the middle of the kiln tighter and loading the top looser. Put low mass pieces up top, like wide bowls.  If that doesn't work, I would try firing a cone lower and holding for 15-20 minutes to achieve the next cone.

This is what worked for me. I use 12 to 17 minutes based on how dense the load is. I also use an offset like Pres mentioned.

A 15-20 minute hold equals 1 cone hotter, so yet, the hold will increase heat work on the rest of the kiln, too. I would first try loading the middle of the kiln tighter and loading the top looser. Put low mass pieces up top, like wide bowls.  If that doesn't work, I would try firing a cone lower and holding for 15-20 minutes to achieve the next cone.

A 15-20 minute hold equals 1 cone hotter, so yet, the hold will increase heat work on the rest of the kiln, too. I would first try loading the middle of the kiln tighter and loading the top looser. Put low mass pieces up top, like wide bowls.  If that doesn't work, I would try firing a cone lower and holding for 15-20 minutes to achieve the next cone.

A 15-20 minute hold equals 1 cone hotter, so yet, the hold will increase heat work on the rest of the kiln, too. I would first try loading the middle of the kiln tighter and loading the top looser. Put low mass pieces up top, like wide bowls.  If that doesn't work, I would try firing a cone lower and holding for 15-20 minutes to achieve the next cone.

Yup, I know exactly what you're talking about. If it were my kiln, I would make a peep hole in it.

If it's currently set up for 3 phase, talk to ConeArt and see what will be required to convert it to single phase. Often it's very minor changes. Most likely you will not have 3 phase service available at your house. 

Hi @McKenna, welcome to the forum! Coneart kilns are well built and work great. If you're willing to do the brick replacement then go for it if the rest of the bricks are in good condition. Since you'll already have the lid off and the elements out it's the perfect time to do the bricks. ConeArt kilns are a little bit trickier when it comes to brick replacement since they have a layer of backup insulation between the bricks and the metal jacket. If it's an older kiln you may find that the backup insulation is very crumbly and needs to be replaced too, so I wouldn't order any parts until you get the bricks out and can assess the condition of the backup insulation and order some more if needed.

The black spots are just organic stuff. You'll see that on pots, too, as they heat up. Once you get above 1000F degrees they burn out.