oldlady

brings back good memories, that is what i started out with in 1972.  it worked very well, good luck to you with it.

Regarding oxide or carbonate, there was something about that tickling in my memory - thought it was well put, but couldn't remember any detail, nor the source*.
Sometime later, having swept through a few Tony Hansen articles, thought maybe in Peterson's book**, ah,
In Glazes chapter, under topic Colors, subtitle Metallic Oxides
"Natural metallic oxides that withstand kiln temperatures are few, so the palette is limited. ...some come to us in the form of carbonates; ...Carbonates are weaker in color than oxides because they have an added atom of carbon and three atoms of oxygen per atom of metal. (...accordingly cost less, usually).
...Salts of metals, such as chlorides, sulfates, and nitrates can also be used as colorants."
One could, and probably should look into how the various materials are safely handled, for some are more soluble, toxic, etc.
*I enjoy this forum! Initially, was looking for info on equipment, since, there are personalities, also interesting topics/information - stuff I wouldn't otherwise see/read/think about - maybe, gets me thinking, and even researching.
**The Craft and Art of Clay
Wherein, still the best explanation of unity, imo, and other stuff, including pictures.

Safe travels, @oldlady!
 
best,
Pres

thank you, chilly and LT,  can't take the test yet, chilly.   the oddest thing happened.   your link led me to a great answer but someone put an ad about  prostate cancer with graphics all over that page.  i just did not have time to wade through the setup.  besides, i have 1000 things to do today before leaving for florida for the winter.  it is 2 degrees above freezing today.   
i will read the link when i get there and have a moment without a crisis.  

https://www.differencebetween.com/difference-between-cobalt-oxide-and-cobalt-carbonate/
Read carefully @oldlady!  Test papers will be sent round later - lol. 

Pres:  
Sodium (oxide) does effect the color on the clay bodies I use; 
therefore I consider the sodium based material to be a "colorant".  
applied as an aqueous mist sprayed on bisque ware will, as a minimum, change the "value" of the color of the sprayed regions, and as a maximum, will produce the orange color common to salt/soda firing.  Greatest effect is on stoneware that has some iron tinges when fired.  
sodium borates and phosphates also are "value" changers.  
I am more interested in contrasts between areas than producing a specific "spot" between infra red and ultra-violet in the visible light spectrum. 
 
oldlady:
Many of the ingredients that we use are carbonates (and/or other metallic based materials);  the carbonates are thermally decomposed to "oxides" during the firings.   
Water is a (di)hydrogen oxide.  Hydrogen carbonate is carbon dioxide dissolved in water.  other examples: Sodium carbonate (soda ash) is the material produced by the reaction of sodium oxide and carbon dioxide; calcium carbonate (whiting) is the material produced by the reaction of calcium oxide and carbon dioxide, ... and so on for other metal carbonates.  Each carbonate material will decompose to the metal oxide and carbon dioxide at its own specific temperature range. Hydrogen carbonate decomposes at below room temperature while other carbonates (sodium, calcium, cobalt, copper, ...) will need temperatures around and/or above cone 022 (~600 C).  
LT (Ik ben chemisch ingenieur)
 

not an oxide but a carbonate, copper.      would someone who is the chemical expert in your area please explain the difference between oxide and carbonate for those of us without your education?

plant materials are used in 90% of my work.  and the glaze is green, normally.    was really surprised by my adult daughter's reaction to seeing a butterdish with citronella leaves and the typical dragonfly.   she was walking through the studio when she spotted it and actually stopped in her tracks in excitement.   neither of my children are interested in making pottery, a disappointment to me but she was amazed by the depth of the green glaze.    actually took several minutes for her to adjust to the normal sort of "so what" reaction.  thank you, Min.  i would help you glaze if you were a little closer.
i single fire to cone 6 in an electric kiln.  sometimes a refire is necessary because i spray the glaze and sometimes miss a corner or a side.   refiring to cone 6 with a slow glaze allows those pieces to become sales.

brings back good memories, that is what i started out with in 1972.  it worked very well, good luck to you with it.

plant materials are used in 90% of my work.  and the glaze is green, normally.    was really surprised by my adult daughter's reaction to seeing a butterdish with citronella leaves and the typical dragonfly.   she was walking through the studio when she spotted it and actually stopped in her tracks in excitement.   neither of my children are interested in making pottery, a disappointment to me but she was amazed by the depth of the green glaze.    actually took several minutes for her to adjust to the normal sort of "so what" reaction.  thank you, Min.  i would help you glaze if you were a little closer.
i single fire to cone 6 in an electric kiln.  sometimes a refire is necessary because i spray the glaze and sometimes miss a corner or a side.   refiring to cone 6 with a slow glaze allows those pieces to become sales.

plant materials are used in 90% of my work.  and the glaze is green, normally.    was really surprised by my adult daughter's reaction to seeing a butterdish with citronella leaves and the typical dragonfly.   she was walking through the studio when she spotted it and actually stopped in her tracks in excitement.   neither of my children are interested in making pottery, a disappointment to me but she was amazed by the depth of the green glaze.    actually took several minutes for her to adjust to the normal sort of "so what" reaction.  thank you, Min.  i would help you glaze if you were a little closer.
i single fire to cone 6 in an electric kiln.  sometimes a refire is necessary because i spray the glaze and sometimes miss a corner or a side.   refiring to cone 6 with a slow glaze allows those pieces to become sales.

this post was useless in the discussion so i removed it.

if i could figure that out, i would make more of them.

hulk, thank you for this post.  i do not know if you meant it to be on the clay website but i have been looking for something to re-string my dog's bed.  the stuff you are talking about is exactly what i want to buy.   thanks again!

will be using glazes that i made many years ago and have not used, just tested.  they will cover the empty bowls i need to make and i will be combining several of them by layering.   not my usual kind of thing and i am not sure whether they will work together. 
there are several 5 gallon buckets with dry mixed ingredients, one is apparently a popular glaze called  "Varigated blue" which i have tested as a base, nice white, almost matte.  there are lots of others,  Nutmeg,  Randy's red, Sapphire, Licorice base which takes colors beautifully, and Luster Green.   more are hiding behind the first row.
anyone with suggestions of how to combine?  any history working with them?   i just want to do simple bowls this year, lots of other things in the way.  

wheels under everything you will move, and you will move things if but to wash that floor.   Harbor Freight stores have lots of types.  avoid plastic wheels that are inexpensive.   buy full bags of the commonly used glaze ingredients.  the best containers i have used are the Rubbermaid totes but they do not seem to be in the big box stores anymore.  Sterilite is very brittle for holding large quantities of heavy ingredients.  rubbermaid might sag but sterilite cracks.   do not leave your purchases in the original bag!  store them in something strong enough and easy to open, preferably on wheels.  bags become dusty and there is no way to open them repeatedly that will not cause a dust storm under your nose.   buy a respirator first thing.
second purchase is a decent cut off wire that you can control.   fishing leader lines come in different lengths, i find a 12 inch very useful and a 9 inch is always in use.   attach round metal key rings to the ends.    take your key rings to a fishing supply place that is not too big so there will be an employee who can advise you.  these wires are already braided so they cut clay the first time and last for years.
label everything.  not on paper that is taped to a container, tape will  dry up and fall off.   use a sharpie directly on the container.  you can remove a label if you change things.  just use hairspray and a cotton ball to wipe all the sharpie off.   hairspray works better than acetone and smells better.
there are a number of posts about setting up a studio, i do not know how to retrieve them from this website but if you search, you will find some really great ideas.   i do have strong opinions on most things because my education has been the school of hard knocks.   trying to save you some pain.

wheels under everything you will move, and you will move things if but to wash that floor.   Harbor Freight stores have lots of types.  avoid plastic wheels that are inexpensive.   buy full bags of the commonly used glaze ingredients.  the best containers i have used are the Rubbermaid totes but they do not seem to be in the big box stores anymore.  Sterilite is very brittle for holding large quantities of heavy ingredients.  rubbermaid might sag but sterilite cracks.   do not leave your purchases in the original bag!  store them in something strong enough and easy to open, preferably on wheels.  bags become dusty and there is no way to open them repeatedly that will not cause a dust storm under your nose.   buy a respirator first thing.
second purchase is a decent cut off wire that you can control.   fishing leader lines come in different lengths, i find a 12 inch very useful and a 9 inch is always in use.   attach round metal key rings to the ends.    take your key rings to a fishing supply place that is not too big so there will be an employee who can advise you.  these wires are already braided so they cut clay the first time and last for years.
label everything.  not on paper that is taped to a container, tape will  dry up and fall off.   use a sharpie directly on the container.  you can remove a label if you change things.  just use hairspray and a cotton ball to wipe all the sharpie off.   hairspray works better than acetone and smells better.
there are a number of posts about setting up a studio, i do not know how to retrieve them from this website but if you search, you will find some really great ideas.   i do have strong opinions on most things because my education has been the school of hard knocks.   trying to save you some pain.

wheels under everything you will move, and you will move things if but to wash that floor.   Harbor Freight stores have lots of types.  avoid plastic wheels that are inexpensive.   buy full bags of the commonly used glaze ingredients.  the best containers i have used are the Rubbermaid totes but they do not seem to be in the big box stores anymore.  Sterilite is very brittle for holding large quantities of heavy ingredients.  rubbermaid might sag but sterilite cracks.   do not leave your purchases in the original bag!  store them in something strong enough and easy to open, preferably on wheels.  bags become dusty and there is no way to open them repeatedly that will not cause a dust storm under your nose.   buy a respirator first thing.
second purchase is a decent cut off wire that you can control.   fishing leader lines come in different lengths, i find a 12 inch very useful and a 9 inch is always in use.   attach round metal key rings to the ends.    take your key rings to a fishing supply place that is not too big so there will be an employee who can advise you.  these wires are already braided so they cut clay the first time and last for years.
label everything.  not on paper that is taped to a container, tape will  dry up and fall off.   use a sharpie directly on the container.  you can remove a label if you change things.  just use hairspray and a cotton ball to wipe all the sharpie off.   hairspray works better than acetone and smells better.
there are a number of posts about setting up a studio, i do not know how to retrieve them from this website but if you search, you will find some really great ideas.   i do have strong opinions on most things because my education has been the school of hard knocks.   trying to save you some pain.

wheels under everything you will move, and you will move things if but to wash that floor.   Harbor Freight stores have lots of types.  avoid plastic wheels that are inexpensive.   buy full bags of the commonly used glaze ingredients.  the best containers i have used are the Rubbermaid totes but they do not seem to be in the big box stores anymore.  Sterilite is very brittle for holding large quantities of heavy ingredients.  rubbermaid might sag but sterilite cracks.   do not leave your purchases in the original bag!  store them in something strong enough and easy to open, preferably on wheels.  bags become dusty and there is no way to open them repeatedly that will not cause a dust storm under your nose.   buy a respirator first thing.
second purchase is a decent cut off wire that you can control.   fishing leader lines come in different lengths, i find a 12 inch very useful and a 9 inch is always in use.   attach round metal key rings to the ends.    take your key rings to a fishing supply place that is not too big so there will be an employee who can advise you.  these wires are already braided so they cut clay the first time and last for years.
label everything.  not on paper that is taped to a container, tape will  dry up and fall off.   use a sharpie directly on the container.  you can remove a label if you change things.  just use hairspray and a cotton ball to wipe all the sharpie off.   hairspray works better than acetone and smells better.
there are a number of posts about setting up a studio, i do not know how to retrieve them from this website but if you search, you will find some really great ideas.   i do have strong opinions on most things because my education has been the school of hard knocks.   trying to save you some pain.

totally agree with russ.   i got the kind of bucket you step on and pull the mop straight up through the two rollers.   the mop is sold with strings as the water carrier.   take them off and use an old 100% COTTON towel, preferably one that was bought years ago for one dollar and is foldable lengthwise to give you about 15 inches of folded mop.   there are LOTS of new, modern, in style, non-cotton mops that are totally inadequate for a studio.  the bucket is still sold in real hardware stores, the small kind in a small town.   they are inexpensive so the big box stores do not carry them.  they would rather sell you a $25 huge, yellow. plastic thing that wants you to use your hands instead of your foot.
 

totally agree with russ.   i got the kind of bucket you step on and pull the mop straight up through the two rollers.   the mop is sold with strings as the water carrier.   take them off and use an old 100% COTTON towel, preferably one that was bought years ago for one dollar and is foldable lengthwise to give you about 15 inches of folded mop.   there are LOTS of new, modern, in style, non-cotton mops that are totally inadequate for a studio.  the bucket is still sold in real hardware stores, the small kind in a small town.   they are inexpensive so the big box stores do not carry them.  they would rather sell you a $25 huge, yellow. plastic thing that wants you to use your hands instead of your foot.
 

Pugger/mixer just edges out the kiln I bought new for most expensive pieces of equipment. 
I'm fortunate in that my husband has the skills (and welders etc) that we were able to build my slab roller and electric motor extruder. Years before we built the slab roller I put an add in the local buy & sell paper. Had to phone the add in, don't know if it was a typo or if there really is such a thing and I was misheard but the add came out as wanted: Flab Roller. 

pres, some of the fairly local studio tours partner one or more skill at a single studio so people do not have to drive so far to see a variety of work.   i do not have a tour nearby but it does sound good.

pres, some of the fairly local studio tours partner one or more skill at a single studio so people do not have to drive so far to see a variety of work.   i do not have a tour nearby but it does sound good.

glazing outdoors in the heat is really no fun.   i have a canopy whose fabric is one of those ventilated things that provides some shade but it really hurts my eyes to work under it without a hat.
of course, it is awful in the cold as well.    still have not made that spray booth i promised myself years ago.   all the parts are here, why haven't the elves put them together yet?