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  2. We have a chart to work off of the air and gas pressure. I think I was just assuming last night when I said that, but I tested it later by putting a piece of paper to a peep hole. The paper burned, which should mean it's in oxidation. Correct? That's what we're supposed to be firing in anyway. We corrected the burners, and still, the glaze wanted to come out blue. To me, this was a sign that somewhere was not getting hot enough in the kiln, especially in the firing zone. It WANTS to be black, and you can see it around the edges. Especially where the glaze is on the outside of the brick. I apologize for the lack of information! I was very tired and frustrated, because I lack computerized gas kiln knowledge. I will provide pictures with what is happening! We are running the kiln at 1140C, which is somewhere in the Cone 1 to Cone -01 range. Fast Fire. 75 minutes. We have a roller hearth kiln, computerized gas kiln. Not the open front style potters are used to firing from. Smalticeram is the ceramic material manufacturer that we purchase our glazes from. They originate from Italy, though they have a warehouse in Tennessee. I've been speaking with one of their glaze techs, but it's slow. I wished we had an electric kiln, but sadly, we do not. I do have the formula, and I will attach it for you! I did get some information about what the frits are made up of from the glaze technician, though he said that the formula should not be unstable, that it looked solid. Though, it's only the amounts of Zinc and Calcium in either frit. He did not tell me what the black stain was a combination of. The only other thing I can think of is that the glaze was not properly agitated, but we have an agitating glaze tub that constantly turns the glaze with the force of itself. It pulls glaze from the tub and spits it back out through two tubes that move the glaze around so that nothing will settle on the bottom. And it was moving around. The glaze tech was telling me about viscosity...and that's where my knowledge of glazes kind of blanks out.
  3. Our school is giving the option of personal plexiglass cubicle style dividers...
  4. Thanks just not sure what holds it in place?
  5. Yes. You should be using slip that has the same recipe as your clay. Slip for sale is often either for casting, or is coloured and therefore more expensive .
  6. I use a thin plastic bag, and the some kind of funnel-shaped, light-weight item inside the top to keep hand built mugs round. Clay has memory, and if the mug was born as a flat slab, it wants to get back to flat. The wetter it is as you form it, the less chance of it wanting to ga back to flat, but the more chance of it slumping ! Probably why the potters wheel was invented. This video, very briefly, shows the funnels put into mugs at the Emma Bridgewater pottery in Stoke-on-Trent. Watch at about 16 seconds.
  7. Today
  8. its called a rubber isolator, type that into ebay - loads of them
  9. good thinking did ! using the bike tyre like string?
  10. I've had that with my kick wheel. I tied it together with a big bit of bicycle inner tube. Works fine.
  11. Hello and Help My kick wheel broke 2days ago hope it is clear from the images the cylinder I am holding is made of rubber and I can only imagine was glued to the rod- I could reglue it with and strong flexible glue but feel it would break again there is alot of movement at this point- does anyone know this type of wheel and have any ideas what I should do ? Thank you
  12. Sounds like China paints where the medium is most often up to the preference of the artist. Here is a nice article that may help and interest you with descriptions of various mediums (oil) and some favorite recipes. http://www.porcelainpainters.com/mediums.htm About two thirds through the recipes you will find many pen media recipes.
  13. Always good to check the kiln condition, especially amperage / wattage if you have the ability. I will say, kilns are generally marginally powered and even new I rarely see one that can strictly keep up with a medium or fast firing schedule. This becomes real obvious when you load them full of plates and shelves. A lot of the reason they are marginally powered has to do with the typical electric service available and the simple brick construction, with lots of mass and lots of losses. No particular brand BTW, it’s kind of an industry thing. If you have the Skutt that tells you the amperage and it’s basically spot on the design then that’s all the power you have and it cannot keep up. In my experience It would not surprise me, even if new. IMO, The good news is you understand schedules far better than most. Very few people pay that close attention.
  14. Hi folks, I'm doing a medium speed glaze firing in my Skutt 1027. This will be its 8th firing, new kiln, new elements. I watch the firings (maybe a bit too closely) and take notes. The medium speed cone 6 firing should take 8.5 hours according to the firing schedule profile spreadsheet I was given by Skutt. My last glaze firing took 10 hours to hit peak temperature. Tonight it seems to be lagging behind from the start. I'm an currently 1.5 hours into the firing and, according to the schedule, it should be at 250 F but instead it is at 160F. Ambient starting room temperature was 70F. Is it common for a kiln in good condition to deviate from the schedule this much? Am I just being neurotic and watching it too closely? Skutt ConeFire Firing Profiles copy.pdf
  15. Hi, I am new when it comes to onglaze painting. To be honest I don't know much about what I am using, i.e, I have been supplied powdered colours which I mix with oils to paint. I use something known as 'Pen oil' for outline work. I mix this pen oil with my powdered colours, it turns into a liquid. However, I have run out of pen oil and can't get a new batch because of the pandemic. I was wondering if there are any alternatives to this? I have something known as 'fast drying medium' which is also an oil. Can I use something like linseed oil mixed with turpentine oil to mix with the powdered colours and paint? Thanks in advance!
  16. If it works, I've seen them in good used condition for 800-1000 bucks. If it doesn't run, or unknown condition maybe 400-500?
  17. all these potters & no one's done the bowl cut?
  18. Never heard of it.Photo would help Welcome to the forum
  19. Any information on this manufacturer? Dates, longevity, repair, maintenance to get it working better? I have found one.... Master Model 72726. It turns! Have a photo of motor.... Dayton Electric Co., Chicago, IL., 1/4 hp, belt drive, 2 speed switch. Side arm throttle/ speed control not working. Pitted aluminum splash pan. Wheel head in good shape. Even a few particle board bats. RPMs seems a bit slow. Thx.
  20. I suspect that the kiln was repurposed as (not hot) work table for which DT would be perfect to prevent crumbling of the brick edges. LT
  21. Do you know about cone packs? For each shelf, put your witness cones from low to high temp (ascending cone numbers) in a clay base. Most people use 3 cones, 1 a cone lower than the cone they're aiming for and 1 a cone higher than the target. If the kiln is firing at the desired/programmed cone temp, it should look something like the photo. This is a cone pack for a cone 5 fire. Orton cone 5 is in the middle. No mess on the shelf and the best indicator of what's happening with the kiln.
  22. Thanks for all the info--I already do just about everything mentioned--have for years--incl. printers blankets/proper ribbing technique etc. I have never had this problem until this bag of clay. I like the technique suggested of applying the stamp & vine to "outlined" stakes on the large slab on and then cutting them using a full shear cut---I'll try it. I like the drywall for my humid space, so now I have enough for top/bottom. Anyway, it seems like "problem solved". I switched to T3 and have not had a single crack/warp since.
  23. These are the key words---I really should have added that I was in no way suggesting that just cuz that's what was stated, the claim could be taken to the bank as guaranteed fact! I also should have added that I personally never make ware for food/beverage use so whether or not it is actually food safe is irrelevant to me. I always assume there is follow-up/deeper digging to be done before any product is used, especially if somebody just posted a comment in a discussion with no further info. Probably ought not do that either!
  24. I knew that some day, some where, some one would finally find a purpose for which duct tape was not the savior!! Congratulations Bill ! Bill has won the highly coveted Duct Tape Busters award for 2020.!
  25. Thanks--I am glad not to be misunderstood. Last night I was going to come back and add that I view being clear/firm, even directive, about masks etc. in one's own space to be just the same as using safety glasses, welding gloves, respirators, wet vacs etc., and that includes some parameters for visitors--ex. people are not allowed in bare feet in my studio-I just know there's some almost invisible Dremel splinters on the floor somewhere! But I fell asleep.
  26. The warping in your images, especially the two on the left, looks like the kind you get when you put a supporting hand on the inside of a slightly too flexible mug when you apply the handle. You might try using a plastic cup on the inside of the mug you’re making to hold it in round while you’re working, or letting things set up a bit more before attaching.
  27. IMO I would remove it and maybe sand the rusted band that you will likely find and paint it with high heat paint. This tape is good to the 450 degree range, after that all bets are off. There is always a new band option or new lid as well but probably too costly is my sense. Cheap High heat paint (barbecue) Good to 1200f. Last for a decent amount of time, easy to touch up.
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