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"...Is it ok to test glazes both on the front and the back of standing tiles?" Good question! My first thought was - it makes for the tests to mimic the intended applications - then, huh! ...ok, I'm going to think about that a while*... You might try side by side comparisons, set of tiles with glaze on one side only, another set with different glazes on both sides? It's possible that glazes that have dissolved materials could influence the other side... I liner glaze almost everything but have never set up test tiles with liner on one side and "outside" glaze on the other side; just dipping about halfway in at a forty-five degree angle, where second dip overlaps in the middle as Bill alluded to. My test tiles check a new glaze against clays I'm using, else glazes I'm using against new clay, looking for: fit - no crazing or shivering coverage - no crawling color fizzing/bubbles pinholes how it works applied thinly, thickly ... *I pour in and out the ware interiors, and dip the exterior, with a full dry in between. So, my test tiles don't reflect how I'm glazing wares, with liner on one side and color on the other. When I do a set of test tiles, almost always I'll also fire a small ware or two that are liner glazed.

Well I ended up emailing Rob Battey as suggested. Think I’m going to end up with the L&L e23T-3 with quad elements and vent sure system. Thanks again all!

Thanks again everyone, I ended up going electric for now!

Does anyone have experience with the new red Skutt wheels? I am in the market for a new wheel and was thinking about getting one of the new Skutt classics. It is between that and a Brent CXC… The Skutt being only 1/3 hp gives me a little pause, but supposedly the torque is really good…

I haven't seen that, and would be interested if you have a ref. But I have seen occasional references to needing to let the pot dry sufficiently between glazing one surface and the other. ... this seems to be more of an issue with dipped glazes than painted ones.

I Have only been in An Olympic gas kiln for the past 30 years. We installed a tankless H2O system, and our pressure is now been upgraded to commercial levels. I can easily overfire the Little Beast. I've had a couple of cone 11 cones puddles. I’m Doing a bisque Fire Now with a full load of heavy and big fermentation crocks. I started at noon yesterday and Will finish up at about 03:30. At 1800 Now. William The Kracked Pot, Washington NC

Yes, mostly ought to be fine. One color can influence another a bit I suppose on occasion but folks use liner glazes different than their exterior glaze all the time. Folks often dip their tiles … 3 second, 5 second dip …. 1 coat, 2 coats. So using test tiles and brush applying each side has its drawbacks. With respect to glazing the outside and not the inside or Vice versa this can create an unbalanced stress in the clay as the glaze often squeezes the clay so to speak. This tiny bit of compression can increase the strength of the ware significantly. So one side glazed and the other not can cause unequal stress in the ware. End result - more fragile ware occasionally breaking suddenly when someone puts hot coffee in a cold mug for instance. Fully glazed well matched - glaze and clay- generally enhances the durability of the ware.

If it’s bad I’ll use a needle to even the rim, but I might try that hacksaw trick. For the foot, trimmed stuff takes care of itself. Untrimmed pieces will often get a rolled foot, hold the (leather hard) piece at a 45° angle and roll it around on the edge of the foot. If something sits unevenly when dry I’ll get a ware board wet and slide the piece around on that to knock down the high spots. This occasionally happens even on trimmed work.

When I've used Nerd's reclaim mix, a very small amount (a quarter cup to about three gallons of reclaim slurry; OM4 is the ball clay I'm using...) makes a discernable difference. Verticals cracks shortly after throwing - Studio Operations and Making Work - Ceramic Arts Daily Community

When recycling clay for the ceramics classes before summer vacation, I would add a few ounces of vinegar into the pug mill. Over the Summer months the clay would set in 50gal plastic buckets with damp towels with a water vinegar soak in them. Every Fall the recycled clay was better than the clay direct from the boxes. Students noticed the difference and I did take the time to explain that the organic material in the vinegar had chance to age the clay with organic material. best, Pres

to maximize the number of tests a test tile provides is it ok to test glazes both on the front and the back of standing tiles? or will the chemistry go through the clay and interfere with the other side? I read an instance where a glaze should not be used on a pot if that pot was glazed on the inside as well.? is this a common issue or just a rare occurrence specific to one particular type of glaze?

I add some ball clay to my 5 gal bucket of reclaim when I add more waste clay, just a handful and mix it in. I like to work with a clay that has more body to it so I can hand build with the recycled clay. I also use it for the original piece when I make a mold, you have to toss the original piece and first mold pull. Denice

This came up the other day, might help. https://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/41668-midfire-clay-short-when-recycled/ Given your reclaim is already on plaster slabs if it is still fairly wet I'ld put it back into a bucket with some more water and add the blunged bentonite or ball clay/bentonite and slurry mix it again with the plasticizers. The smaller the clay particles the greater plasticity you will get from them, bentonite is much finer than ball clay which in turn is much finer than EPK.

I've seen it done both ways, and it totally depends on the kiln and how it was designed. Often the flue opening is tall enough that putting the shelf up high enough to be above it isn't possible and wastes too much space. In that case I would leave the bottom shelf a couple inches from the back wall. If you have a flue channel in the floor of the kiln, so that the bottom shelf can be above the flue opening without wasting space, then I would first try it with the shelf against the back wall and see how it goes. In general, I think the target bricks and the bag wall height are going to have more of an effect on performance than the orientation of the bottom shelf.

My understanding is the Ardvark Soldate 60 is is 50 Lincoln Fireclay, 25 OM4, 25- 60 mesh sand and 2.5 spar. Yup, it is gritty and very workable and forgiving.

Isn't that pretty gritty, though? I think the 60 means 60 mesh grog/sand?

Hi - I have a laser J9 in UK and have been reading this thread to learn more about firing it. I raw glaze and fire to cone 03 in ca 13 hours at fastest but sometimes it can take 16 hours. I think this is a combination of inattentive regulation /kiln watching and setting. do you guys advise setting bottom shelf at a level above flue outlet and hard up against back wall, so that gases pass beneath the bottom shelf into the flue or, do you set bottom shelf low and clear of the flue outlet? I have seen it both ways. perhaps you set all shelves hard against back wall? I have seen that suggested. any advice welcomed.

Hi everyone, I’m noticing my reclaim is coming up short, even though I’ve saved all of my throwing water and slip. (For reference, the clay bodies I am trying to reclaim are Laguna B-Mix with Sand and another already reclaimed B-Mix I got from a studio, both ^10). I went to my local clay supplier and asked what they recommended to add plasticity and they said bentonite and EPK so I bought those. My reclaim is on plaster slabs right now, almost ready to wedge, and I’m trying to figure out how much of each raw material to add to my clay. I’m also unsure of how to incorporate the materials into a clay that is not in its dry state. Can anyone point me in the direction of a good recipe to follow? Thanks in advance! Baby potter

Soldate 60 is great stuff. It's a cone 10 clay but for sculptural firing to midrange would work too. I've known people use it for Raku firing also.

Kelly thank you for the informative reply, it gives me a little more hope that it will work. Me and my arthritis are to old to make another set. I could buy a set but I like unusual daily utensils in my life. Denice

Maybe you could contact the clay company and see if they have a technician that can help you with choosing a clay. I have had problems with Laguna's Buff clay cracking in slab type sculptures and B Mix has always cracked for me. I would be interested in finding out what the clay is that the clay company recommends. Denice

Does anyone collect, or are interested in old Ceramics Monthly magazine? I have quite a few in excellent condition from the 70’s and 80’s. Email tobegrateful@outlook.com

You can get small digital pyrometers, hand held devices, not very expensive in the scheme of things. I would install a timer set at about 1/2 hr post target cone drop. This is a backup, essentialimo, inxase the sitter bar doesn't drop for some reason. Long time potters, eg @Pres can guage the temp according to colour if kiln interior but until colour shows you're in the dark. :-))

I would like the clay to be somewhat smooth - not necessarily like porcelain but not super coarse.

I am not too concerned with the color of the clay/Aardvark is near me. As far as the cone of the clay, I am hoping to stay in the cone 5 range but these pieces are sculptural and will only be for display purposes.