So how do you trim feet on plates? Notice some potters do virtually no trimming ie foot of plate sits as a "slab". Others do defined feet but this seems to warp if the thickness is not right. I have left bands of thicker clay between more trimmed sections, what is best/most efficient?
Advice On Trimming/turning Feet On Plates
Posted 13 December 2013 - 11:11 PM
hank is a wizard....
Here is a link to a tutorial on displacement trimming . . . a technique used by Hank Murrow. Basically, he uses a heavy weight roller to roll the edge of the bottom up to form a foot.http://www.murrow.biz/hank/roller.htm
Posted 14 December 2013 - 12:00 PM
I throw plenty of clay -6#s for a 10 1/2 plate then trim the underside away and I leave a small nubin which I sign in middle . This keeps the plate from slumping at cone 11 as its all porcelain in my pottery.
I'm known for these nubins on my wares.
Posted 14 December 2013 - 01:06 PM
I trim a foot on plates just like any other pots. A lot of clay comes off due to the width of the foot, but I think it looks much more finished than a flat bottom. I do not leave a ring in the middle, as I don't have slumping problems with my porcelain. With stoneware it shouldn't be a problem at all.
The foot should sit where the lip meets the flat part of the plate. If it is unevenly trimmed, the plate can warp during drying, resulting in the plate sitting on the center section rather than the foot. I do not glaze the bottom of my plates. There's just not enough clearance.
Kiln Repair Tech
Owner, Neil Estrick Gallery, LLC
Posted 14 December 2013 - 07:47 PM
I should add I glaze the bottoms of all my plates no matter what size.The nubbin is a hold over from long ago-most of the time its still above the foot plane not touching shelve (flat advancers)
heres a photo of my plate bottoms in bisque and glaze states
You can see this nubbin which is trimed a bit more that the outer foot plane so its above that foot plane.
Posted 15 December 2013 - 12:04 AM
Thanks people, I think I have been too scimpy with the quantity of clay/plate from start off.
Like your glazed bases Mark. I'll try nubbin and concentric rings!
Posted 15 December 2013 - 07:07 AM
Beautiful, substantial plates! I love them!
Northern Woods Pottery
Posted 16 December 2013 - 09:33 AM
When I first started throwing Patens(communion plates) I started with flat bottoms, then trimming double rings. I lost a ton of plates to trimming too thin, drying too fast and cracking, cracking in firing, and other production problems. One day I decided to correct my trimming with about 10 new plates. I used a thick needle tool with no point, put a piece of tape on it where an appropriate amount of needle stuck out for the trimmed thickness. Then I put a series of pin holes into the plate from top to bottom. While trimming I watched carefully to see where the holes would show up. When the holes showed I stopped trimming. Then I burnished over the holes. I continued to use this technique until I was able to judge by eye, feel and sound.
Simply retired teacher, not dead, living the dream. on and on and. . . . on. . . . http://picworkspottery.blogspot.com/
Posted 17 December 2013 - 11:54 AM
I looked around few shops but nothing.
Posted 17 December 2013 - 11:03 PM
I will have to give this a try. I don't currently have any problems with my plate bottoms, I just dislike all the scrape from the cuttings, scrape that has to be recycled. I hate recycling clay.
Posted 17 December 2013 - 11:32 PM
A few very common errors with flatware are -
Not leaving enough clay to trim a decent foot with a glazed bottom
Uneven trimming-which can cuase many issues
Making them to thin
Putting the foot in the wrong spot-warping issues
I suggest making a run(8-12) of smaller salad plates-get the hang of it and then go for the big ones
Keep in mind many dishwashers will not take a plate over 11 inches
As Pres said above get a feel for how think they are everywhere-master this and your plates will always be great ones with no loss rate.
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