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grayfree

temp for opening kiln?

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Well I basically killed a new pair of wielders gloves. Most of the pots dunted and the ones that did not shivered. Glaze came off and pots tore themselves apart literally . The shelves mostly made it as did the arch (catenarys are tough )I recall losing one shelve.The pots on the rear wall also died.Although thats where the few keeper where. I think in the whole load I had just a few keepers. I learned that there are reasons for slow cooling -glaze development-clay bodies are happier -furniture lasts longer and does the kiln.

It was a school of hard knocks learning lesson-before that I was known as the (cooler king) in terms of kiln cooling. Now its  slow cool for me.

I have a sculpture in the yard that is a refrigerator form made of smxall extruder bricks so it look like a kiln-the label on the door says quick cool-I made it in art school some time later after my junior collage/home kiln quick cooling experiment went astray .

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On 1/14/2019 at 12:22 PM, Skye79 said:

I somewhat new to using my kiln, only having it a year.  I open it still hot, too hot to touch actually and have never had a problem. I didn't know that crazing was a possibility until reading this forum.  I do have a question about how to hold your temperature in a kiln sitter manual electric kiln... I use the plug on the top when I think it is at a good temp. to hold but I am completely guessing....no problems with it, I just don't know if it is making much difference. 

Well lift the latch back up to vertical position put a weight on latch rod to hold in place. Press the button on sitterbox to turn kiln back on.

Then fiddle the amount of energy input to jeep your kiln at soak temp. You can fire down in this way too. Take notes of what happens to temp.

Set yourself a timer or alarm as if you walk away, your kiln will remain jammed on.

Notes are a great help for future firing.

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