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neilestrick

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About neilestrick

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  • Website URL
    http://www.neilestrickgallery.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Grayslake, IL

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  1. Goldenrod Glaze

    @C.BanksI don't think it was ill advised at all. This is typical for crystalline glazes, I just wanted @Shelly M to know what to expect from that type of glaze.
  2. Goldenrod Glaze

    If this is a crytalline glaze, it will not behave at all like typical glazes. For starters, it has no clay in it, so won't stay suspended in the bucket. Second, crystalline glazes are super runny, to the point that they require a catch basin underneath them to collect them. Firing this cooler, like to cone 6, may solve that problem, but I would still put a dish underneath the first round of tests.
  3. Goldenrod Glaze

    You can also blend stains to get the color you want. Also try changing the opacity of the glaze it's in, as that can change how the glaze reacts.
  4. Goldenrod Glaze

    Why don't you want to use stains? That would be the easiest way to do it. Yellows are difficult at best, without using stains.
  5. learning to use underglaze

    VeeGum-T is used to make this glaze brushable, and to help keep it suspended since it's not all that high in clay. Bentonites will keep it suspended well, but won't help brushability as much. You can use any gum to make a glaze brushable instead. The problem is that gums are organic, and will get eaten up by bacteria in a matter of days. To preserve the gum, and 1/4 to 1/2 of 1% copper carbonate to your underglaze. It will preserve the gum and won't be enough to affect the color. I usually use CMC gum. Mix 2 tablespoons CMC and 1/2 teaspoon of copper carbonate to a gallon of hot water and let it sit overnight, then mix it with a blender. It'll make a gel. Substitute 1/3 to 1/2 of the water in the glaze with the CMC mix. It'll keep it suspended and make it brushable.
  6. Old Damaged Kiln

    You're welcome. Let us know how it goes.
  7. Dragons think pop up shows are good!

    I don't mind pop up shows if they're short and sweet. 3-4 hours, make $300 dollars, it's an easy way to spend half the day and make some money on a day when I don't have anything big planned.
  8. Pyrometer Usage?

    Those little spacers help everything tighten up better, so if you've got them use them. However they're not totally necessary. When I change out thermocouples, I don't remove the screws completely. As you unscrew them part way you can til them to the side and out of the way, leaving them in the holes. Makes putting the TC back in a lot easier.
  9. Pyrometer Usage?

    Yes, those are the spacers, but you don't have to use them. Just screws will work fine.
  10. Electric kiln temp control

    Yes. Turn all the knobs at the same time. An hour on each setting will work for most firing situations. I'm moving this to the Equipment section.
  11. Old Kiln/New Potter

    Yep, give it a shot and see what happens. A chimney will increase draw, and may help to even out temperature top to bottom if that's an issue.
  12. Pyrometer Usage?

    @RonSa yep, that's right. No need to trim anything, just screw it to the kiln.
  13. Keep your abs strong. They'll take a lot of pressure off your back.
  14. It all depends on you. I like to have the wheel head an inch or two below the top of my hip bone. That may or may not work for you, because you're body isn't shaped like mine. Just keep trying different heights by shimming the wheel up or down until you figure out what you like. There's no set rule.
  15. Umpteenth question on raku kilns

    A little chimney certainly wouldn't hurt. You'll definitely want a peep hole. The best way to fire raku is to look in and watch the glazes. They'll bubble up, then settle down and gloss over, then they're ready to pull. Cones won't work, it's too fast a firing. The pyrometer will be a good indicator of how fast it's climbing, and for peak temp, even if it's not accurate. Do the first load by watching the glazes and take note of the pyrometer reading, fire additional loads to the same reading.
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