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Also make sure your bat pins are tight.
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The knocking is likely from the bat slipping. The oblong hole is not ideal, but that's how Brent makes them. There are other bats on the market that do not have oblong holes, like Northstar, but another solution is a BatMate or Bat Gripper. There's a few on the market but I know Xiem and Bailey both have a version. It's a think piece that sits under the bat and gives it more grip. My students love them.
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Piedmont Pottery reacted to a post in a topic: Kiln trips breaker after replacing elements and power plug, but...
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neilestrick reacted to a post in a topic: Kiln trips breaker after replacing elements and power plug, but...
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Moving Sculpture to Kiln
neilestrick replied to tman123's topic in Studio Operations and Making Work
Definitely build it right on a kiln shelf. I'd also put it on a waster slab. It's okay if the waster breaks, it'll still work. Keep the kiln shelf up on bricks or something that will allow you to get your fingers under the edge to pick it up without having to tip it. -
Roberta12 reacted to a post in a topic: High fire clear glaze over under glaze - cloudiness
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Pres reacted to a post in a topic: Purchasing a kiln for home studio use
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Purchasing a kiln for home studio use
neilestrick replied to B.H's topic in Equipment Use and Repair
Only very small kilns will run on 120V service. Any kiln of functional size will need 220/240 volts. The smallest kiln I would consider is an 18" wide model. But ideally a 23" wide model would be the most functional, as you can fit plates and serving bowls in it much easier. First thing to do is to take a look at the web sites of some kiln manufacturers in your area to get an idea of what's out there, and see what the electrical requirements are for the size of kiln you want. Then have an electrician check out your system to see what size circuit your system can handle. Minimum you'll need a 30 amp breaker, on up to 50 or 60 amps depending on the size of kiln you want. At £800 you'll have to buy used, but looking at the new ones will give you an idea of what you'll need to do as far as hooking it up. If the kiln is indoors, it will need to be vented, or at the very least have 2 windows that can create a cross draft with fans. -
Callie Beller Diesel reacted to a post in a topic: High fire clear glaze over under glaze - cloudiness
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Callie Beller Diesel reacted to a post in a topic: Dolomite mesh?
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Substituting frit in Brian Taylor B1 Clear Base
neilestrick replied to sorenasterart's topic in Clay and Glaze Chemistry
Here you go! B1 Revised.pdf -
High fire clear glaze over under glaze - cloudiness
neilestrick replied to Hendrixl114's topic in Clay and Glaze Chemistry
Many commercial underglazes just don't hold up at cone 10. They start to flux out and that causes them to behave poorly when you put a glaze over them. If you're just looking for black or blue, you'd probably be better off making your own underglaze or slip. If you do want to use commercial underglazes, each color will need to be tested to see how it holds up and cone 10 and with your clear glaze. -
Sourcing used bricks is becoming increasingly difficult since US manufacturing has been in decline for so long. You probably won't find any on FB or Craigslist, as those are listing by individuals. Instead, you want to look at industrial liquidations, commercial auctions, and even government surplus. Also contact manufacturers of refractories and see if they have factory seconds.
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Mark C. reacted to a post in a topic: Dolomite mesh?
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I'd go with the 325 unless it's really expensive compared to the other. The finer it is the easier it will enter the melt.
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Bisque firing frustrations
neilestrick replied to Gonepotty's topic in Studio Operations and Making Work
The thermocouple offset will effect everything. It makes the thermocouple read higher or lower. If your glaze firings are fine, then a cone offset would be the way to go to dial in your bisque firings, but do the pre-programmed firing first. -
Kelly in AK reacted to a post in a topic: Beginner question re saggar firing
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Majolica firing schedule
neilestrick replied to Dallionstar's topic in Educational Approaches and Resources
I'd start with just using the pre-programmed medium speed firing schedule in your controller. Those schedules work for most applications. If there are issues with the firing, then you at least have a simple baseline to start making adjustments from. -
Glazed pieces hung out at 800F degrees - ok?
neilestrick replied to ABlanc's topic in Clay and Glaze Chemistry
They won't be affected at all by 800 degrees. Dead relay in the kiln? -
Beginner question re saggar firing
neilestrick replied to Brian_Ire's topic in Clay and Glaze Chemistry
Another way to get some great colors is to use salt. Soak wood chips in a saturated salt water, let them dry, then use them in the saggar. It can give great red, yellow, and orange colors. -
neilestrick reacted to a post in a topic: Bread kloche bisque vs cone 6?
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neilestrick reacted to a post in a topic: Bread kloche bisque vs cone 6?
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That's a steam explosion from firing too fast for the thickness of the piece, or the piece still being too wet. Let the piece dry completely, do a preheat for a couple hours. Be sure to vacuum out all the clay crumbs from the elements.
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First, why vinegar in the throwing water? Usually when we see black on the wheel head it is simply a tiny bit of the aluminum abrading from the clay. Could just be the abrasion of the bat against the wheel. Does wiping it down not remove it?
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Are you bisque firing first?