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Everything posted by Chilly

  1. You can use any material for your master. It's how you get from the master to the mould that changes depending on what you want to cast. If your finished item is to be slip-cast, then your final mould must be plaster.
  2. If you search this forum, using the term moulds (use the English spelling), you will find lots of posts where I have answered questions, and put lots of tips for both mould-making, and slip-casting.
  3. Depending how much clay and glaze you have in stock, it might be cheaper to sell/throw/give it away and buy new, than to fire your new kiln to cone 10. Take into any calculations the extra cost of firing, and the wear and tear on the kiln elements.
  4. Could be the stones. Have you fired this clay any other way? Electric kiln?
  5. Highly likely it's low fire. Paint your own is rarely for functional ware, therefore it's not worth spending extra on high fire slip. As above, test a piece by firing it on a lipped tray or saucer made from high fire clay.
  6. Another suggestion: How far back/deep do you feel compelled to go in your pursuit of pottery (or insert another craft/art here)? For example, I make clothes, but until recently have not felt compelled to weave fabric. I now do some weaving, but didn't feel compelled to spin thread/yarn. I've now taken up spinning. Why do I feel the need to buy a raw fleece and wash it, pick the bits out, and card it. All before I can spin it/weave it/sew it? The same with pottery, buy clay, dig clay, buy glaze, mix glaze. What are your compulsions, how far back do you feel you need to go? Not what your brain says is sensible, what your heart is tugging at.
  7. Commercially, tiles are made from (as far as I can remember) 100% talc and no water. They are pressed under huge pressure and then fuse in the firing process. The lack of water is why they don't shrink. Follow the advice from @Babs and @Mark C. above, and slow, slow, slow drying.
  8. Yes, photo's please. It sounds like you're trying to remove it from the mould too soon or too late. It needs to be when it's starting to shrink away from the mould, but is not actually dry. It's a fine line.
  9. "Why is this not white" is the question I get most often. And I still don't understand why fellow class-mates don't understand the difference between "clear" and "white" on a vessel of glaze.
  10. Doesn't seem so. You can sort by many options, but not member name :-(
  11. And anyone on this side of the pond probably can't type .co without putting .uk on the end. Most UK businesses are .co.uk
  12. I have the box containing my dad's ashes. Soon to be joined by my mum's as she passed away last weekend. Live companions include the robins nesting under the greenhouse staging, many bees and butterflies - which, unfortunately get caught up in the spider's webs before I can set them free. Occasionally a sparrowhawk sitting in the tree outside the window.
  13. Sitting down doing nothing is risky - obesity, thrombosis, muscle fatigue, asteroids falling on the house, cars crashing through the walls. It's time the "elf'n'safey" chaps joined the real world.
  14. @scottiebieI've not been here for a few days, and it looks like no-one else has a solution for your question. I'm assuming she still hasn't formally declared her "disability", in which case, no I don't think you have to vet every CD or video you want to show. My dad hated music, couldn't stand watching TV documentaries where the music was louder than the speaking, he was always writing to the BBC complaining, but in a group situation he would either grin and bear it, wear ear-plugs or go home. But, he would never confront or be disruptive he would consider that to be rude. I'm starting to lose some hearing, and really struggle with background noise. Just make sure if you're teaching, that any music is either off or very low.
  15. I've stood them in a sink with the tap running into them. Not a jet, but gentle. Then let them dry in the sun or a breeze.
  16. There's a book, available online, called backyard kilns - https://stevemillsmudslinger.weebly.com/backyard-kiln-e-book.html the link to the pdf file is at the bottom of the page, in very pale print. It's a great book, and this is the kiln I was going to build.
  17. This link http://www.americanceramics.com/html/ceramicmolds.html takes you to a list of manufacturers/suppliers. I suggest you contact them and see if they're interested.
  18. I think @Babssums it up very nicely. I too am convinced % = energy, or the amount of time that the elements are switched on for. 500C might be the lowest setting, but those dials usually have a wide fluctuation of accuracy. With most kilns and controllers, the settings are the maximum you would want the kiln to heat at. BUT, most kilns won't be able to heat as fast as the settings would allow. So, if you set 100% for 1 hour to 1200C, your kiln would struggle to meet those demands. Try @Babssuggestion, and see how it goes.
  19. Don't forget it might look brighter if you use a clear glaze over it. Have you tested it?
  20. Sounds like a lot of money. I paid £25 for mine, it just needed a good clean, and I painted it, mainly as I didn't like the colour! I do love mine, it's easy to use, doesn't take up much floor space, and is re-cycling at it's best.
  21. Not so much what's on it, but what fell off it. Before I'd even taken a photo! It was a woven piece, made with trimmings from a mult-layer slip casting. Can't add a photo from my phone - too big, I'll add it later.
  22. I've never cast anything that thick. My head says, the thicker the cast, the thicker the mould need to be, in order to absorb even more water from the slip. But, my head also says, will the water travel through that much "drying" slip?
  23. No matter how dry you think your hands are, they contain and leave behind all sorts of things. If they were totally dry, you'd be so dehydrated.............
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