Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Chilly

  1. I have recipes that say "flint or quartz". It would be nice to know what differnece ther really is. Have you contacted the supplier and asked them?
  2. Don't forget to show us your finished mould andcastings.
  3. This is a two piece mould, bottom forms the base and the top forms the lip. (Please ignore the plywood, top half of mould broke in half, so used plywood to help glue it together.) The hole in the top half is 16mm smaller in both directions than the hole in the bottom half. This forms an 8mm lip all round. To get a bigger lip, make the hole in the top smaller.
  4. Chilly

    Bonsai Dish 2

    From the album: All Stuff

  5. Chilly

    Bonsai Mould 1

    From the album: All Stuff

  6. Chilly

    Bonsai Mould 2

    From the album: All Stuff

  7. Chilly

    Bonsai Dish 1

    From the album: All Stuff

  8. 1. I'll go dig out a mould I have for making a large bonsai pot, that has (I think) a level rim like that. Might be a while, it's torrential rain, and the studio is down the garden!! 2. Yes, Lark, Slip-casting and mould-making. https://blackwells.co.uk/bookshop/product/9781600590771?gC=5a105e8b&gclid=CjwKCAjwwdTbBRAIEiwAYQf_Ew9BbshqmHK9lWH57NeTQvPzoqCOxD_VUSwBhT42kSj2vLi0ouiPVRoCiZwQAvD_BwE 3. It depends, Time of year, humidity, heat. Could be 3-4 weeks, maybe more, maybe less. Feel it with your cheek to see how cold (damp) it is. If you cast when it is still damp, you will not get as thick a casting and it will take longer to set-up. 4. I use soapy release from Potterycrafts. (UK). Not sure what mineral oil translates to, but I don't think it's the right stuff to use. 5. NO. Definitely NOT. Don't use anything on your dry plaster. The clean, dry plaster will absorb the water in the slip, leaving a coat of clay.
  9. Nothing, it's in the kiln ready to be fired on Wednesday. Bought 5 pieces of greenware home from Potter's Camp. a couple of plates using a jigger/jolly machine, slip decorated and screen printed on, just daubed slip on the other, a couple of pressed trinket trays - rolled out clay, rolled again with icing rolling pins, cut into a curvy rectangle and pressed by wood blocks into thick foam, and a paper-resist slipped, waxed, incised, cobalt-washed slab that I don't think I'll like when it's finished, but I brought it home to show others the techniques. No point learning something new if you don't pass it on.
  10. Clay usually explodes because it is not dry, not because of air pockets. So, yes, the nose was probably too thick. Although you let it dry for 3 weeks, the problem is that as the outside layer of clay dries, it shrinks. It then forms a crust, which makes it harder for moisture to evaporate from the centre of the thick piece of clay. It might have fully dried if you''d left if for weeks and weeks, but then again, it might not. I made a tennis-sized ball of clay, hollow, but fully sealed. I left it for months, and when I broke it open, it was still not fully dry inside.
  11. +1 to everything above, and , if you can, iron the cloths, or get something like crushed velvet.
  12. Chilly

    Making Clay Stamps

    For non-porous stamps you can also dip into WD40, or use cling flim over to get a softer edge.
  13. At leather hard it would absorb some of that liquid, so you'd also have to weigh the form before and after filling/emptying to see how much had been absorbed. When making a mould, the master needs to be as perfect as possible. The finished casting will never be as good as the original, so spend lots of time getting the surface finish as good as you can. Also, make your model much thicker than you would normally, or even solid, then it will hold up to the weight of plaster above and around it.
  14. As OldLady says, stuff the cracks, both from the inside and outside. Inside you need to be careful and smooth them out, outside, just slap it on and make sure it seals well. A friend had an xmas tree mould that leaked, we stood it in a bucket and just kept pouring more slip, eventually the slip stated to dry and the leaks stopped. Bit of a nuisance, but it worked. Next step is to make a really thick casting and then fill the void with plaster. Use to make a new mould, following the mould lines. (The plaster gives rigidity to the model and stops the clay from drying too much.) Or find a mould maker to make you a new one.
  15. Would love to see pictures, then we can all learn........
  16. Hi @Roger the Bowl Maker Sounds like you might be in the UK? Try to get hold of a book by Michael Bailey called Glazes Cone 6. It is written for UK sourced materials, and takes you through lots of examples.
  17. Chilly

    Been a long time.

    And put cookies/catchers under EVERYTHING to protect your shelves.
  18. Chilly

    Temperature Algorithm?

    Nice idea, but it would only work with actual temperatures, not ramp rates. Can't remember all the details right now (it's 2am and too hot to sleep), but the divide by 8 and times 5 doesn't need the add/subtract 32 bit. Or numbers to that affect.
  19. Chilly

    Glaze Shivering Problem

    Hello @Kachenbeat. Please tell us more about yourself, and your location. This information will help us to help you.
  20. Whatever you use to repair the chips, needs to be absorbent, otherwise your clay will stick to it. For big chips, you can add more plaster, just give the old a good few scratches first. For smaller chips, probably not worth bothering, just keep on fettling the finished pots.
  21. Chilly

    Dry firing on a new kiln

    I'm in the UK, and I make my own batt wash too, followed Mark Cs advice have had no problems.
  22. Chilly

    What’s causing this crawling?

    Can you post a close-up of the problem please?
  23. The biggest issue with drying of solid pieces is the surface. It dries faster than the inside, and shrinks and forms a nice tight skin. The inside moisture now has a harder job to evaporate through that skin. The thicker the piece the longer and longer it takes. If it takes a week for a 10mm thick piece to dry, it does not follow that it will take two weeks for a 20mm piece. More like three or four weeks. If you really hate hollowing or want solid pieces you could make a mould from the original instead of firing it and cast it in a different medium altogether. Metal or plaster or slip cast it and then you could leave it thick but uniform and hollow which would aid it's drying.
  24. "Unread content" doesn't seem to be working as it used to.


Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.