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Found 7 results

  1. I made a white clay slip with specific gravity 180 yesterday for solid casting ! (idk how to say it in english , i mean slip weight waa 180g when water 100g) and I added about 1.5 times more of the the release agent(Sodium silicate )than usual.. But unexpectedly, the slip stuck to the mold. I thought this was a phenomenon when there was a lot of water in the slip. Or does this happen depending on the drying condition of the mold? plz help me...
  2. Hello! I made a slip cast mold, 2 parts, just halves with pottery plaster 1. And waited 1 week after making the mold to try my first cast. I'm in the Pacific Northwest so it's damp and still a little chilly for context. I poured my clay in on Wednesday and it's Friday and still pretty wet. The mold itself I thought was dry but maybe it wasn't? I bought my casting slip and mixed it well. So I'm not sure what I've done wrong. Any tips or tricks or advice?? Thanks!
  3. I am just starting into the world of slip casting after throwing for a few years. I have routinely used b-mix stoneware that I fire to cone 5/6. I am trying to figure out if a stoneware slip or a porcelain slip will be the most durable. I’m still firing to cone6. I am making many many plates for a high-end caterer, so I just need them to be strong, but I figure slip cast will help with uniformity over throwing. Suggestions?
  4. Attempting to glaze very thin slip cast cups. The casting slip is a commercially mixed ^6 porcelain bisqued to ^05. I’m using a commercial transparent dip glaze recommended by the supplier. When dipped, the glaze remains completely wet on the cup and then sags and cracks off completely as it slowly dries. I know I’m in the dark without further information about the make up of either the slip or the glaze and that the real solution will be mixing my own glaze but I just wanted to make sure that I’m not getting something wrong in the mechanics of firing and application. My first thought is that the very thin porcelain over fired in the bisque firing and is therefore not porous enough to take the glaze however it does absorb water when soaked. Would I be better off using a spray application as a starting point? I am a newbie and very much finding my way here. Thanks
  5. So I have a plaster mold that has been used about 12 times,bit leakie but it works with extra precautions. After my last pour and opening I had these funky crystals show up on one side. I have been slow drying it between pours by a heater so dont know if this is the cause. Just wondering if this is normal for a large slip cast mold. Have to say it's rather pretty...
  6. Reaching out for some advice. I have made some large slip cast fish that will be mounted on steel posts in a garden installation. They fish are hollow and have a 1" round hole in the bottom of them to insert the stand/pole. I have glazed the first two and used picks to support but the weight and heat of cone 6 melted them onto the fish. So..... I went fishing for an idea and made a stand with the same clay with a post that touches the top of fish and wedges against the entry hole to hold fish in air so it can be glazed in the round. I have bisqued it and it seem strong but will it just collapse at cone 6? Should I cone 6 it before I put the bisqued glazed fish on it to fire? The fish really shrink so will check I can get the support out after. Other option is maybe to find a round pillar of cone furniture and adjust the hole so I can use that with some additional stabilization of base.
  7. From the album: My work 2017 (Year 1)

    I love the randomness of the colour splashes in these pieces.
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