tman123 Posted April 26 Report Share Posted April 26 Hi! I wanted to ask to see if anyone has any pointers on wiping the glaze off the bottom of a large piece without ruining the application on the glaze on the piece. It’s about 29 high by 15 wide and pretty cylindrical. I plan on brushing the glaze on (about 4 layers) and I was thinking of doing 3 layers towards the bottom section, wiping the bottom off, then doing four on the rest with some slight overlap on the already glazed bottom. (A little worried where there is overlap there will be a lot of glaze) Was also thinking doing three layers on the whole thing, resting it on foam or something like that and wiping bottom off, then do final layer…the only thing with this is worried moving it onto foam might mess the glaze up. Would appreciate any input! Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulk Posted April 26 Report Share Posted April 26 (edited) Hi tman! Can you elaborate on what you are aiming for? I'm not clear on the bottom - are you leaving it bare? Are the glazes you are using fluid - do they sag and run? Are you aiming for a thinner glaze application at the bottom to "catch" running glaze? Almost all my work is functional and rests on a bare clay foot ring. I use masking tape for a clean sharp line. Pulling the tape while the glaze layer is still moist minimizes dust... Dipping upside down, the glaze is thickest at the rim, thinnest near the foot. Wiping away glaze - seems easier when the glaze is still moist, especially if the point is to wipe some, but not all of the glaze layer away. When the glaze if fully dry, wetting it, then waiting a few moments for the moisture to penetrate is almost same... Added: most often, I'll buy 3M "Contractor Grade" (#2020) masking tape; it's buff colored. For small wares, bargain tape can work for straight lines - small wares are light! I've used the blue tape when we have some left over from somewhat else. I'm putting the tape on and taking it off the same day; at most, the next day. For curvy lines, quality tape is more important; it cuts cleaner, has better stick, and curves better. Edited April 28 by Hulk tape choices Rae Reich and Pres 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rae Reich Posted April 27 Report Share Posted April 27 A second person to hold or wipe might help, if possible. Hulk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elaine clapper Posted April 27 Report Share Posted April 27 Are you putting wax resist on the area you want to be bare? Hulk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pres Posted April 27 Report Share Posted April 27 I have made several vase forms that have 8-10 inch bases, and some bowls that have 12-14 inch bases. Presently I use a bat covered with a felt type rug with rubber backing. Using the wheel running slowly, with some dampness on the rug I can clean the surface of a foot ringed of flat form quite easily. The larger the bat the bigger the form can be covered. Two people holding the form should be able to make it work pretty easily using the weight of the form against the covered bat with the hands of the two individuals holding it steady. I use the same technique to clean the bottoms of chalices and patens for communion sets. best, Pres Min and Hulk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tman123 Posted April 28 Author Report Share Posted April 28 On 4/26/2024 at 11:30 AM, Hulk said: Hi tman! Can you elaborate on what you are aiming for? I'm not clear on the bottom - are you leaving it bare? Are the glazes you are using fluid - do they sag and run? Are you aiming for a thinner glaze application at the bottom to "catch" running glaze? Almost all my work is functional and rests on a bare clay foot ring. I use masking tape for a clean sharp line. Pulling the tape while the glaze layer is still moist minimizes dust... Dipping upside down, the glaze is thickest at the rim, thinnest near the foot. Wiping away glaze - seems easier when the glaze is still moist, especially if the point is to wipe some, but not all of the glaze layer away. When the glaze if fully dry, wetting it, then waiting a few moments for the moisture to penetrate is almost same... I’m just aiming to apply the glaze in a way that covers the piece evenly… it’s a large piece (it’s sculptural and there’s no openings, I’m just glazing the outside) … I just want to apply the glaze and not mess the application up when I go to wipe it so that’s why I was thinking of applying a couple layers on the bottom half then wiping it then putting it on rest of piece Hulk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted April 28 Report Share Posted April 28 Are you brushing, spraying or dipping your glazes? Are you waxing the bottom? Damp piece of short pile carpet is effective to rotate the pot on, or used as a batt. Rae Reich and Hulk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted April 28 Report Share Posted April 28 hot wax on the bottom when finishing the work will keep the glaze from staying on the bottom while you glaze it. easy to do then, no handling with dry glaze being knocked or rubbed off. have you considered spraying the glaze so you can reach the whole thing without touching the glaze at all? sprayed glaze dries so quickly i hardly have time to put the spray gun on its hook before the piece can be handled safely. Hulk and Rae Reich 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tman123 Posted April 28 Author Report Share Posted April 28 I’m brushing the glaze on, my main concern is that when I brush it on glaze will get underneath the piece so I’m just wondering how to do it so that I don’t have to wipe the glaze off bottom after glazing the piece - a friend suggested just glazing the bottom first then wiping it off and then doing the top so I may go with that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rae Reich Posted April 28 Report Share Posted April 28 (edited) @Hulkhas a good solution for your situation. He uses blue tape, used for masking woodwork when painting, to tape off where he wants the glaze to end and peels it off while the glaze is still slightly damp. You could do that, brush your glaze on the lower portion, remove the tape and proceed glazing the rest of the pot. @Babs carpet covered bat works well, too, allowing you to slop on glaze at will while the pot sits on the dampened carpet, then turning the dry pot slowly by hand on the carpet to rub off accumulated glaze at the base. I would moisten and trim off any chunks of glaze with a fettling knife or trimming tool before turning on the carpet. Waxing the bottom before glazing could help to keep any glaze from seeping under the base and sticking. Edited April 28 by Rae Reich Babs, Hulk and Pres 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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