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Propane Torch for Expedited Drying


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I've been using an old hair dryer to expedite the drying of pots while still on the wheel.  I've seen quite a few folks using a propane hand torch which reportedly works better, even with the increased risk of fire.  Any suggestions for where such a propane torch can be purchased?

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Hi CJ!

I hardly ever use heat whilst throwing*, however, to drive off some moisture for trimming, aye, often, especially when the weather is a bit cool and/or damp.

Although I have a propane torch, it doesn't have a built-in ignitor, so I use the map gas torch (which I'd bought to do some soldering with...), which also is significantly hotter than the propane unit (when used with map gas). The ignitor is so handy.

** disclaimer here**
                  Not recommended, at your own risk; it's hot! It's dangerous! It's on fire!
                  The tip gets hot, therefore presenting a scorch hazard. Bats and tools may be blackened. Pressurized gas - it's under pressure, and flammable!!!
                  Very good ventilation is required, also vigilance...

The hardware and home supply stores have a range of torch heads, kits, and tanks.
This one starts at about $35 for the torch head.

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*I'm sponging out the interior (for closed forms; open forms I'll rib the inside as well) and ribbing off the outside to stop/reverse the wetting process. When stretching out, I've typically ribbed off the outside first, hence it's drying a'ready.

When the session's line up of ware to be trimmed is trending damp, a bit of heat afore trimming brings the piece to preferred moisture level with the quickness, aye, very handy. Careful, even application o' heat - against the spinning ware bein' ideal - not too much, give it time to cool off as well, aaah...

The torch is also super handy for right now lid knob/handles. I throw a small tapered cylinder, set it aside whilst trimming, burnishing, and chattering the lid, then bring it back to the wheel for a quick torching, then cut it off with a needle, bring back the lid, score, slip, attach, done.  

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a heat gun is really safer even though it is really REALLY ! hot.    the problem with a torch is that the flame can become almost invisible because is is a burning gas.  easy to torch something other than the clay.   there  are many melted plastic bats in some studios.   not warped, burned out of shape by a heat gun or torch.  i keep my heat gun in a metal "holster" at the end of the slab roller and only use it there.   it was very inexpensive at harbor freight.

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Over the years I have resorted to all sorts of schemes to dry my pots for further work. This would include building a small paper fire inside of the pot, which works to some degree but can be messy and leaves a bit of residue. I also used a torch for a while with a spreader, but then running out of gas, and the smell would dissuade me from that. Now I use an old heat gun to dry the exterior and the interior of large cylinders for further pulling and shaping. This usually is not needed, as I have gotten to where I throw very dry, using very little water in the end and a small contact point to make the pulls.  I do still dry the bottom part of a pot to stabilize it before shaping, especially if I have used a contrasting slip on the outside of the piece with stamping.

 

best,

Pres

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You can get propane hand torches anywhere you get plumbing supplies. Home improvement centres, Canadian Tire, I assume Harbour Freight. 

No one has paused to ask about the scale of the pots this torch will be used on.  A large propane torch  is great for large scale pieces. It works faster, and the flame has a fairly dispersed area. It draws the moisture out of the whole pot wall, giving the piece strength. 

A smaller hand torch has a more concentrated flame. It too goes quite quickly, but in a more concentrated area. You have to keep any heating tool like this in motion, or you’ll get cracks. 

A heat gun is slower, and tends to form a dryer layer clay on the 2 inches of surface it’s pointed at. I use a heat gun to firm up the surfaces of my jar galleries and the rims of the lids so that I can dry them together without them sticking. I would not use a hand torch for this purpose, because I want to avoid too much shrinking. I would also not have a large propane torch in my basement studio for any reason. 

I say this because we get all kinds of folks reading these threads, so saying one tool is the best for all things isn’t accurate. 

 

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will never forget the workshop given by Del Martin at his maryland studio.   he was making a huge pot thrown from both directions and needed to dry the wet section before turning it over to throw the top.  we all went out with him to his big gas kiln and watched him pull the burner out and light it.   did not take long before he was ready to throw the top.  yep, all sizes.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Aside from all the great above comments; heat on your plastic bats will cause some very nice warping (avoid this). Either throw on the wheel head, or wood, or just dont focus the heat at/near the foot of your pots.

When I make big pots I use an old burner from my large gas kiln; quick but powerful; you can overdry/uneven dry pots out real fast. A small handheld propane torch (like used for soldering) gets used every so often in the studio, and is enough btus to do what I need.

Ongi potters use large metal "bean cans" with a bunch of holes in them, filled with smoldering charcoal, and suspended on a chain from ceiling. Subtle and widely dispersed heat for low and slow.

Of course, with any fuel burning heat source, be mindful to provide ventilation, and fresh air source. Ensure you have a leakproof tight fit if using a grill propane cylinder or larger; propane is denser than air, and will settle at the floor. Kaboom if you're unlucky.

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