Hulk

Good question!
Some of the dust burn off may leave substantial ...dust?
My suggestion would be to dunk the wares in clean water, scrub off with a large sponge and/or, perhaps a brush, then rinse.
From there, it shouldn't take particularly long for the wares to dry out, then glaze and fire per your usual process.
You might hold off on the whole load, however - perhaps pick a few to glaze fire - just to check how your glazes and the "older" wares behave together, afore committing the entire load.
 
I wash and rinse off my bisque as a matter of course.
Almost all my ware features some chattering. When the glaze doesn't "wet" all the way to the bottom of the chatter mark, the glaze will pull back, leaving a holiday, hence, I rinse, with attention to the chatter marking...

@Min Never heard of Magma. Alas, just tried ordering it online and they don’t ship down under. Rats!
Cold dunking wouldn’t be an option with our line, but maybe a cold blast of air right out of the kiln might work on a larger scale. I’ll be sure to post back here if I give it a go.
Thank you again all.

Good question!
Some of the dust burn off may leave substantial ...dust?
My suggestion would be to dunk the wares in clean water, scrub off with a large sponge and/or, perhaps a brush, then rinse.
From there, it shouldn't take particularly long for the wares to dry out, then glaze and fire per your usual process.
You might hold off on the whole load, however - perhaps pick a few to glaze fire - just to check how your glazes and the "older" wares behave together, afore committing the entire load.
 
I wash and rinse off my bisque as a matter of course.
Almost all my ware features some chattering. When the glaze doesn't "wet" all the way to the bottom of the chatter mark, the glaze will pull back, leaving a holiday, hence, I rinse, with attention to the chatter marking...

Wow @Hulk Lots of home projects for sure!  My husband and mom have had some recent health issues but those are getting sorted out now.  Our camping plans have been delayed so that is probably what we will be doing in July and August as well as going to NM to see kids.  We only have an outdoor pool in town for swimming so I am enjoying swimming laps as much as I can.  I am also leaving in a few days to go to a workshop at Idyllwild Arts.  The presenter will be Ruth Easterbrook.  It should be fun.  They have a great facility there.  Ooops, that is sort of a ceramic plan, isn't it!?  
Roberta

Been traveling in our new camper awd van to remote places out west-in last two months spent 15 nights out in the boonies. Hiking -incrediable  flower blooms after super wet weather. Lots of butterflies -rattle snake, some caving
Tuna fishing season is coming up as well.

Staying home this summer,   I have a new dog that is a year old and needs more training.   My sister is coming from August,   I don't know why anyone would visit Kansas in August.  HOT HOT HOT.   We are planning a vacation in November and December.   My son and his wife are moving to Costa Rica in August,   we won't have  family  for the holidays.   Taking a long holiday trip sounds better than sitting  around the pouting because we don't have a family.   Last year we had Thanksgiving dinner at a IHOP in Galvenston,  the only restaurant we could find open.   Denice

We have recently booked a trip to Utah coming in September, which I still consider Summer now that I am retired. Made me wonder what other folks plans are for the Summer months that do not involve ceramics.
QotW: What are your non Ceramic plans for the Summer, please explain, dates are discouraged.
 
best,
Pres

Use a brush when washing dusty crevices. Leftover dust will interfere with the glaze adhesion. 

seems like you likely have proven you have a defective pedal. Speedball used to carry a 100% 2 year warranty for parts and labor so I would call them. Definitely visually check the pedal operates mechanically freely and there is no clay or other debris hindering its operation first though.

Good question!
Some of the dust burn off may leave substantial ...dust?
My suggestion would be to dunk the wares in clean water, scrub off with a large sponge and/or, perhaps a brush, then rinse.
From there, it shouldn't take particularly long for the wares to dry out, then glaze and fire per your usual process.
You might hold off on the whole load, however - perhaps pick a few to glaze fire - just to check how your glazes and the "older" wares behave together, afore committing the entire load.
 
I wash and rinse off my bisque as a matter of course.
Almost all my ware features some chattering. When the glaze doesn't "wet" all the way to the bottom of the chatter mark, the glaze will pull back, leaving a holiday, hence, I rinse, with attention to the chatter marking...

I prefer to work alone,  every  time I take a class I end up teaching.   One summer I enrolled my son and his best friend in a throwing class,  I enrolled also so I could teach them how to throw.   The first day of class the teacher showed up with her hands and arms covered in bandages,  she had tried to break up  a dog fight.   I didn't get to work with my son that much,  busy teaching  the class to throw.  He  did throw a bowl by the end of the class.    The next class I tried to take was tile making,  I had been making tile for a few years.  From reading the brochure I thought I would learn some new methods.   First class the teacher told us that the class had been doubled booked accidently  and the teacher who was suppose to help was sick.   The students were suppose to bring their tile design and  something from nature to work with.   I was the only one who did that out of 30 people,  the teacher asked me if could help teach the class.  I agreed the summer college class was nothing but chaos.  I had my tiles made in  less than a day,  didn't have anything else to do.   The college was a two hour drive from my home,  the fees for the class included a dorm room for the week.    I stayed thinking that it would get better.     Denice

Just an update and I do not wanna jinx anything but I did about 50 more mugs wedging each ball individually per @Min’s suggestion and another chunk wedging larger amounts but then doing my normal elongating wedged clay to wire off smaller balls. I then truly spent an insane amount of time compressing bottoms. No visible cracks on any of the individual wedged ones and a handful on the ones using my normal method but with intense amounts of compressing. Looks like this is just going to be part of the process with frost. Thanks for all the suggestions and hope that is the end of that.
I do want to add some compliments to frost as well. It is hands down the best looking glazed porcelain I have ever seen. I also love how even when fairly wet it holds it shape very well for handling. This is especially important for me as I do all attachments much sooner than leather hard so I never have to really worry about joint cracks. So I may have to spend more time on the wheel but handles etc are much more efficient for me now.
off to do some glaze fit adjustments now…

Thanks for your reply.  I always wipe down my piece before glazing, but these pieces are really dirty.  I'll try the wash method and let them  dry in the sun:)

If this reference is representative "vivid" manganese purples may be fairly thin on the ground.
A Plethora of Purple: Glaze Recipes for Earthenware, Stoneware and Porcelain
https://ceramicartsnetwork.org/daily/article/A-Plethora-of-Purple-Glaze-Recipes-for-Earthenware-Stoneware-and-Porcelain
The manganese containing purples illustrated are:

But here are well-lit examples of a very dark glaze with character from https://gotheborg.com/glossary/aubergine.shtml

... so maybe it's worth trying "aubergine" or "eggplant" as a search term.
There is an aubergine glaze recipe without a picture at:
... As reported elsewhere closed threads are not searched by this sites search engine. So such postings can only be found using a search engine such as google. In this case searching for 
"aubergine gloss glaze" site:community.ceramicartsdaily.org

I use a popup, the Pro Expo from Instant Promotion. I've used mine through about 100 shows so far, and in some really, really bad weather. It's super heavy duty, all the connecting brackets are aluminum, and the sides and top are waterproof. The peak is super tight and tall enough that water won't puddle in it. The walls are tall enough that pro panels should work.
To really make them sturdy, popup canopies need crossbars to keep the legs from moving and flexing. I built some that I can attach about halfway up, which stiffens up the frame and keeps the wall from flapping into my displays. Instant Promotion does have crossbars, but I haven't used them. They're made so that the sidewalls can attach to them to hold them tight.
The only downsides that I have found are:
1. The canopy frame and top are heavy. The whole thing weighs like 70 pounds and it's bulky.
2. The top fits really tightly, so it takes some muscle to get the first leg or two locked into place.
3. The walls fit really tight, too, so it takes some practice to put them on so that the corners all meet up correctly. There's not much room for error. 
Once you get used to all that you'll find that it's worth it to have something that fits together really well and doesn't flop around in bad weather, unlike most popup canopies.
For weights, you want at least 40 pounds on each corner. Some shows require 50 pounds. I use 36" long pieces of 2" square steel bar that weigh 40 pounds, and they work great. I set them on the feet and strap them to the legs. They're super slim and easy to haul. I got a deal on mine, but would expect it to cost about $100 each now. Instant Promotion has some weight options that are pretty good. The fact that the canopy itself is quite heavy really helps, too.

ok, many many thanks.  restarted, and it went to segment 3 and my fingers are crossed.  thank you for getting back to me so quickly!!

Most if not all of your pieces will probably be fine. Some glaze melting will start at bisque temps, but shutting down at those temps usually doesn't cause any problems. Start it back up and fire to cone 5.

@VForce
Stumbled on this product whilst looking for something else:
Art Clay World USA, Inc.
Select "What is Art Clay link" to read about the material.

Files touch* my trimming tools, so I file them.
It doesn't take long to bring a sufficient edge back, and hence, it doesn't take long to dull them either**.
We have some knives (and other tools, e.g. twist drills) in the house that files don't touch, and hence, we turn to the array of specialized sharpening tools...
Heat generated by grinding can alter the alter (ruin) the tool's hardness, depending on the material, and how (or if) it was tempered.
 
*where "touch" means they cut chips, or "pull" chips.
Files are hard, however, even a sharp/new file won't cut material that is almost as hard (or harder) very well.
**trade-offs:
  cheap  -  expensive
  wears quickly  -  wears slowly
  sharpens easily  -  more difficult to sharpen
  flexible/tough  -  brittle

Thank you Neil and Bill for all of your advice. I was able to purchase the Solid State Timers from Artisan Controls - as you noted, they were a little expensive ($78.00 each) but I was not confident in my ability to install another infinite switch and eliminated the relays.  The new Timers eliminated the clicking/chattering noise and now I can hear the timers cycling on and off  properly.  I really appreciate all of your help! 

Files touch* my trimming tools, so I file them.
It doesn't take long to bring a sufficient edge back, and hence, it doesn't take long to dull them either**.
We have some knives (and other tools, e.g. twist drills) in the house that files don't touch, and hence, we turn to the array of specialized sharpening tools...
Heat generated by grinding can alter the alter (ruin) the tool's hardness, depending on the material, and how (or if) it was tempered.
 
*where "touch" means they cut chips, or "pull" chips.
Files are hard, however, even a sharp/new file won't cut material that is almost as hard (or harder) very well.
**trade-offs:
  cheap  -  expensive
  wears quickly  -  wears slowly
  sharpens easily  -  more difficult to sharpen
  flexible/tough  -  brittle

I sharpen my trimming tools with a chainsaw file, and I do them when they feel like they’re starting to drag or I have to push too hard, similar to my kitchen knives. 
I use a Do All for most things, and I find they last about 18 months-2 years before the square edge is too worn to keep an edge. They’re about $20 Canadian, so I figure that’s pretty good value. Dolan doesn’t ship internationally.

Pres what color of stone do you use on your Dremel for sharpening.   I haven't tried sharpening a trimming tool,  I have a bunch of old ones in a bin.    Now  and then I will have someone show a interest in working with clay and want me to give them lessons.    I will give them a few basic tools (old ones)  and a bag of clay,   after teaching them a few basic hand building techniques I tell them to make a pot and bring it back to me.  I have never had anyone return with a pot for me to fire.  I fell in love with clay when I was 12 and my art teacher gave us a ball of clay.  She  said we could make anything we wanted with it.  I squished and rolled the clay around and discovered it was magic,  I could make anything.    Denice

I have one expensive trimming tool, Dolan, carbon steel. That thing is as sharp today as it ever was, no fuss, amazing. The rest, the ones I actually use most of the time, I made from various steel strips: wiper blade inserts, rake tines, street sweeper bristles. Those tools I sharpen regularly. I use a file. I just feel the edge, if it needs it, I sharpen. They often need it. Takes about thirty seconds. I throw them out when the blade is too thin to work (I make a new blade, keep the handle).
The Dolan never needs it. In fact, the only time I remember cutting myself with a trimming tool was with that one. 

HI folks, I have been in the shop recently trimming patens(communion plates) and find that it is time to sharpen or replace my tools. Personally, as long as the metal is good, I prefer to sharpen. Yet, I do remember a teacher from a few years back that didn't bother. . . he just threw the old tools out and bought new ones! I have often wondered how others would sharpen their tools. I use a dremel mostly and then finish with a wet stone. I put the tool into a vise, and sharpen using a cone shaped grinding bit. I mostly like the L shaped over the the hoop tools as they are easier for me to sharpen. Over the years I have used and owned cheap tools and very high end tools. I prefer the high end as they do hold up well both is the overall and sharpness of them.
QotW: Do you sharpen, if so how, or do you toss when your trimming tools need sharpening?
best,
Pres