Mark C.

I make square slab plates on a plaster slump molds . they are not footed (no coils added). They pop off the plaster well and have a curve to them which lessens in the glazze fire. They have a square area that is flat in about 1/3 of the form with the lip angled up. I have to sizes and have way better luck with the smaller 8-9 inch than the larger 14-12 inch which loves to lay down to much in a glaze fire

For me throwing the whokle thing on the wheel is faster by far. The time is trimming a foot.The wares are solid and do not warp. The compression is good and no memory issues with the clay .

I threw my first  pots yesterday after a 8. week break. I had a tarsal tunnel surgery on right foot and out of cast now and in a boot for a month. I got off crutches  and knee scooter about 4 days ago and am taking baby steps towards walking again. Going to make some small stuff this am as well. Slowly getting back to it. Lots of PT and doing my PT 3 times a day then ICE and infrared light. Compression sleeve 99% on time as well . Wound is about 5 inchs long and coming along nicely. This surgery was a real setback for 8 weeks.
I have a large order to fill this spring and am just starting to get to it. I will be driving my self again within a day-ya hoo
PS tarsel tunnel is just like carpel tunnel on wrist only on the foot. Both by feet have it. I shosse the worst right foot to do this year -if it gets better in 3-6 months I will conside the other one. Right now  that sound really like a bad idea but once I;m healed up and if it works then I will think more about it on other foot.Surgery was a 4 hour trip away one way. Specialized doctor for this type of surgery of course.

I threw my first  pots yesterday after a 8. week break. I had a tarsal tunnel surgery on right foot and out of cast now and in a boot for a month. I got off crutches  and knee scooter about 4 days ago and am taking baby steps towards walking again. Going to make some small stuff this am as well. Slowly getting back to it. Lots of PT and doing my PT 3 times a day then ICE and infrared light. Compression sleeve 99% on time as well . Wound is about 5 inchs long and coming along nicely. This surgery was a real setback for 8 weeks.
I have a large order to fill this spring and am just starting to get to it. I will be driving my self again within a day-ya hoo
PS tarsel tunnel is just like carpel tunnel on wrist only on the foot. Both by feet have it. I shosse the worst right foot to do this year -if it gets better in 3-6 months I will conside the other one. Right now  that sound really like a bad idea but once I;m healed up and if it works then I will think more about it on other foot.Surgery was a 4 hour trip away one way. Specialized doctor for this type of surgery of course.

I threw my first  pots yesterday after a 8. week break. I had a tarsal tunnel surgery on right foot and out of cast now and in a boot for a month. I got off crutches  and knee scooter about 4 days ago and am taking baby steps towards walking again. Going to make some small stuff this am as well. Slowly getting back to it. Lots of PT and doing my PT 3 times a day then ICE and infrared light. Compression sleeve 99% on time as well . Wound is about 5 inchs long and coming along nicely. This surgery was a real setback for 8 weeks.
I have a large order to fill this spring and am just starting to get to it. I will be driving my self again within a day-ya hoo
PS tarsel tunnel is just like carpel tunnel on wrist only on the foot. Both by feet have it. I shosse the worst right foot to do this year -if it gets better in 3-6 months I will conside the other one. Right now  that sound really like a bad idea but once I;m healed up and if it works then I will think more about it on other foot.Surgery was a 4 hour trip away one way. Specialized doctor for this type of surgery of course.

I threw my first  pots yesterday after a 8. week break. I had a tarsal tunnel surgery on right foot and out of cast now and in a boot for a month. I got off crutches  and knee scooter about 4 days ago and am taking baby steps towards walking again. Going to make some small stuff this am as well. Slowly getting back to it. Lots of PT and doing my PT 3 times a day then ICE and infrared light. Compression sleeve 99% on time as well . Wound is about 5 inchs long and coming along nicely. This surgery was a real setback for 8 weeks.
I have a large order to fill this spring and am just starting to get to it. I will be driving my self again within a day-ya hoo
PS tarsel tunnel is just like carpel tunnel on wrist only on the foot. Both by feet have it. I shosse the worst right foot to do this year -if it gets better in 3-6 months I will conside the other one. Right now  that sound really like a bad idea but once I;m healed up and if it works then I will think more about it on other foot.Surgery was a 4 hour trip away one way. Specialized doctor for this type of surgery of course.

I have a double ended crabide custom trim tool very close to a Kemper is R2 -6 inches long that Bison tools made me long ago. I use this as my only trim tool. I have worn two out so far in life. I have two spares now when this one wears out . So I'm set.

I have a double ended crabide custom trim tool very close to a Kemper is R2 -6 inches long that Bison tools made me long ago. I use this as my only trim tool. I have worn two out so far in life. I have two spares now when this one wears out . So I'm set.

Luster needs the same temp every time .(so as noted above ,cone 019 is that temp no matter what) Refiring can be improve or not-it just that way-try and see.

Hey, I have the same wheel and dealt with the same issue. Call laguna clay and ask them for PACIFICA SENSOR W/WAND + CORD, it was $23.75 when i bought it last year. Assuming we have the same pedal (cause I had the exact same issue) it should be a fairly easy fix. The only issue I had was i still havent really adjusted the pedal speed to were it wa originally, its not the end of the world it just annoys me sometimes. Does the inside of your pedal look like this picture? If so then ghats your fix. Ask the for the instructions, film yourself taking apart your pedal so u know exactly how it goes, dot lose anything (duh lol) . Hope this helps

I think its best to fire off the old imperfections 1st than start over especially if its rough surface. Luster need a smooth shiny glaze to work well on top of.

quit using crimp connectors and get the better clamp ones from Euclids-If you had the clamps you only need a short wire to get it to clamp. I have extra insulators so I would grind one down on my bench grinder and that would expose enough pitail to clean and clamp and on with the show. Creative fix is needed.

I think its best to fire off the old imperfections 1st than start over especially if its rough surface. Luster need a smooth shiny glaze to work well on top of.

The wheels sell well-I would ask 1/3 off new as a starting point-quality wheels really went up in price so find out what anew one costs to start with
The kiln well its all depends on condition-same deal-harder to sell than a both your other items due to size 
Slab roller is a easy sale as they are hard to find used-very hard really

sorry to hear you are out of clay making

Drilling is the very very last resort-the PB blaster soaking for days then varouis mechanical tools would be my go to. Never had that fail ,heat before drilling for sure as well
drilling will screw up the threads so that means retaping to the next larger size. patience is whats needed here and I have little myselg except when it comes to the se situations .
The easy outs are the ticket as Hulk posted above -. Drill only the center-then soak it for a day or two then use the easy our-You tube this to see how if you do not have experience with tham

(I fired the kiln up to about 2100 F by having my gas pressure as high as it would go with no standing flame from the vent)
You say you are adjusting gas presure-is this with the meter regulator?
after that you say you turn it up-I'm confused its already on max? you said
Or a presure regulator somewhere else?
Or is this just the single valve to kiln? and its full on 
In terms of reduction that small flame out top does not mean the whole kiln is reducing. I can get a flame out of my 12 cubic upodraft with hardly any reduction in middle or bottom. To get that I need the damper in some. 
The damper need to be part of the cycle.
The only way to keep the bottom from overfiring is to use a damper
It sounds like you are still just barley getting enough gas down that long 3/4 inch gas line. Can you adjust your meter presure with a manometer ?do you know how to do that?This is a 1/4 pound presure (7inchs on a monometer right)
 

I have had Brent wheels sit for a decade with zero issues on start up. Electrics same deal-I life ina mosit rainforest for winters  but no summer humidity 

Here is what an older potentiometer looks like (all white unit) .The whole unit these days is all Black plastic
Brandon covered all this well and then older units do get brittle and like this one in photo is cracked but can be epoxied to get more life from it.
You need to be handy a bit to repair unit or replace the potentiometer
 

The belts are small single V belts as I mentioned and that will last a lifetime-I mentione this in above pots
This wheel NEVER had a belt guard underneath most likely. 
I do not see any trim pots in your post on Feb 17th
The trim controls for wheel are in the bottom of foot pedal not on the control board-it has no adjustments for anthing take the bottom cover off foot pedal-you will see a red and blue wheel that takes a straight blade screwdriver one is high end one is low end. They work together to fine tune them
The two holes in deck someone drilled to attach a splash pan is my guess and use silicone to fill them as they will allow water to get under deck and be a rust issue
Just for you info Brent never made a model B in the early days-see the brochure at top of this post for all the early models.Your 1/2 HP motor means it was a model C . I have that same wheel only an earlier model that does not have the plastic deck but a formica flat top with no ridges around perimeter. Model Bs which came later all had 1/3 HP  motors as they are today
No one left at Brent knows this stuff anymore i feel-all the old timers are long gone I think.
That foot pedal is one of the early models and Brent has no parts for them. They do wear out over time so baby it if you can. You can buy a cheaper potentiometer here and fabracate it into this pedal here . Your potentiometer is white  as all the early ones where white and now they are all black.
When your contol board stops working the oldest control board brent sells will work fine for you but you will need a larger control box to fit it into.
These early boards fit into a shallow steel electrical box and used toggle switches not rocker as you noted.You can buy rockers for cheap when that control board stops working later.You may get lots of years still on that board or not its a unknown. I keep a spare board in stock in studio but I have 5 wheels adn like to keep tham all working well.
This is down the road for you as I have been there and done that long ago in terms of the larger plastic control box and new controls and reaplacing the foot pedal as well with the newer style.
I have a spare  foot pedal that was just sent to me from a person on this board who replaced theirs if you need one in the future.
Let me know if you need any other info just PM me
 

Whatever you do do not powder coast it inside as it will all chip out into the clay.
Yes on the de-rust paint OUTSIDE ONLY. Yes on the sandblast.
If the barrel is aluminum it can be be welded at a shop if its steel its ever easier to weld
This pug mill looks like a beater so pay very little for it. It pre vacuum I assume which means you still need to wedge the air bubbles out so plan on that
They make nicer units and I have seen many a bluebird with the vacuum feature for sale used as well.
This unit is pretty far gone and will take some big work to get it cleaned up -hopefully it's free to start with

I have had a fair amount of Requests for older info on Brent wheels-all from the 70s mainly thru PM's and E-mails. I'll cover all the questions I have answered in the past years here.
This is my original Brochure from 1969-1970-I bought a model C then from Robert Brent himself. At that time the model C and CXC where the only two models he made. The CXC was a direct drive transmission and could spin a 3/4 ton truck . The model C had two separate belts. Both had flat heavy duty decks with flat formica on top. The foot pedals where like in photos not like todays models. 
You can replace the potentiometer  by following that link at top of Equipment page on Brandon's post.
The splash Pans  where galvanized sheet metal and just slid in under the wheel head with no attachment .You can make one from say a plastic bowl like container. I like to find them at Asian Markets as they have the best selections
The CXC has a 1/2 steel thick deck and weight 160#s -yes 1/2 plate steel. The Model C was 1/4 inch thick deck and weighed 120#s. I still have my model C and its heavy.
The transmission takes 90 weight oil in that CXC. 
The control boxes where metal electrical boxes and were to small for all the contents and can be replaced with deeper boxes if you are working on one.
Any rust can be neutralized using Ospho bought online or any Ace Hardware store and let set for 24 hours then spray with flat black paint after 1st wire brushing away the loose material.
If your motor is blue (its original) the brushes are not user changeable -just take it to an electric motor shop and have them change out any neaded bearings or brushes at the same time.
If you have a bearing out on the wheeled (its all one unit) you can unbolt it from deck and replace with new Brent wheelhead but the shaft size on the model C was 5/8 and the new shaft/wheelheads are 3/4 so you will need new 3/4 inch shaft belt pulley as well
In Brent wheelheads the bearing and shaft/wheelhead are one piece so you need the whole deal.. The good news is they can last a lifetime unless you are a production potter.
All newer Brent motors have user friendly replacement brushes (non Blue motors).
Hope this helps those who buy these older Brent wheels
The wiring brochure is from the old days-the last document is the spring tension on wheels from the  late 70s onward written by an old acquaintance from Amaco/ Brent  Paul Scowden

Good question I post my yearly firings for many years here and did so a few weeks ago
here 
 

I use and own all kinds of brushes in the ceramics studio .Some I had as a Art major in collage (oil /water color and ceramics use) .I'll never use them all up in my life as i collected way to many to over the decades. I had a brother who bought a bunch from Japan in the 70s for me and a mother who went to china in the 80s and brought back a bunch for me. Since then I have amassed way to many on top of those I already had. I was also given a few boxes of the flat wide ones that are white hair wooden japanese one. She had a case of them.Then somewhere in the 80s I started to make my own. Well now maybe its time to think about letting some go. I did sell a bunch of pottery tools on one of the pottery facebook sites last year when cleaning out a studio area. Time to do more of that.Doing that with camera gear now as its a winter downsizing I do every year.

You need a timer knob as yours is missing as well.