Mark C.

Dryer clay will help you-as dry as you can get away with.

Never used air release mold-
I assume the air blows in not suck out so how would pure lube get in the way-lupe is like a soap mixture-slippery and doews not hgurt or clog plaster in any way.
The Texas tile maker said 150 tiles a day so have one stick for a day is a huge issue
A photo of the insides may help-I think pure lube is your friend
many use other releases but this is made to work with plaster
My gallon is about 1/2 gone after 20 years-you can buy smaller amounts
https://www.axner.com/pure-lube.aspx
 

You can boil down glaze to thicken it in a kitchen pot-then apply the thick glaze to get the same results

Two one ton extended vans bought new  made by my order over past 20 years-Had one for 10 years put 180k on that one the other is also 10 years old now bought new for 35K and it has 70k on it now-slowing down on  miles now less than 4k a year on van
Then two Peter Puggers-both bought used one this year
Then Baliey electric slab roller bought new a few decades ago or more .
5-6 brent wheels over 48 year period -1st one in 1970 for 270$ new a model CXC in 82 both of those where new all the rest used except a model A off ebay-new old stock a few years ago as a spare trimming wheel
some where in this mix is lots of hardbrick/softbrick which cost more than a wheel for sure to build kilns

Two one ton extended vans bought new  made by my order over past 20 years-Had one for 10 years put 180k on that one the other is also 10 years old now bought new for 35K and it has 70k on it now-slowing down on  miles now less than 4k a year on van
Then two Peter Puggers-both bought used one this year
Then Baliey electric slab roller bought new a few decades ago or more .
5-6 brent wheels over 48 year period -1st one in 1970 for 270$ new a model CXC in 82 both of those where new all the rest used except a model A off ebay-new old stock a few years ago as a spare trimming wheel
some where in this mix is lots of hardbrick/softbrick which cost more than a wheel for sure to build kilns

I also love buying historical books about art.  When I find them at a estate sale it is like finding a treasure trove,  they are coming down in price now because younger people just want to look it up on the internet.   I have quit buying so many books recently ,   having  two estate sales after  my mother in-laws death I realized I need to downsize my stuff.    Denice

I'm heading the other way-still subscribe to CM since the early 70s although at times I wonder why-
dropped pottery making as it aims more for beginners and I got little from it.I donated all my issues to a local fire arts center
These days it more technical reading for me-Kilns and materials-glazes-high fire reduction and salt
less about technique these days for me
I am no longer expanding library and will down size it in next year or two.
 
 

No is only use it when I mix it with  dry milled zircon
since its collidical silica (ridgidizer)
That I apply to fire boxes and fiber in the flame box area of gas kilns or as a thin top coat on fiber walls.
That mix is super durable and hard and I learned about coating fiber with it from glassblowers who use it building glory holes for glass work. Those are fiber lined and need to be hard with spinning glass in them.
That mix sticks to just about anything  fiber,hard or soft brick when its thin-if it gets to thick it will spall off  (flake off)
I suggest a thin coat which will keep fiber firm and solid -best sprayed-take the lid off and lay it facing up for this-lay the loose fibers down. This process will harden the fibers-spary and let dry then fire.
can you post a photo of this fiber lid?

Its both for me  to some degree but load is usually the main idea but  what goes in is more driven always by what I need for orders/sales than any other factor. I fill the kilns full-stuffed no matter what and extra bisque gets stored away and piles up at times. I like to make lots of extras and smalls so the spaces get filled. I'm all about maxium use of space these days. I just finished a piece on tumble stacking for CM just on that subject of maxium fill in for a bisque. Look for it in the future -its more about electric bisquing than my gas kilns. Pots do not go bad and having more in all states is always a good thing-whether green ,bisque or fired-its all good.It all sells in the end so really its a no brainer for me.
Right now I have boxes of what I call show pots that are just for shows-not for my outlets as I do not offer them-like cannister sets ,teapots,large vases and huge bowls, larger pots and platters. These pots are waiting for an art show this summer and have been boxed up for many months now since my xmas sale in 2020.

(I guess the use as a rigidizer is insider knowledge)
My mistake this is the link sorry
THIN  coat is best with any product like this
https://www.axner.com/search.aspx?find=RF+458
I keep a gallon on hand 

this will make the surface rigid-you can spray or brush it on fiber (I spray it with a mask on)
pretty cheap stuff -also called ridgizier
thin coat is best
https://www.axner.com/search.aspx?find=RF+458
 

this will make the surface rigid-you can spray or brush it on fiber (I spray it with a mask on)
pretty cheap stuff -also called ridgizier
thin coat is best
https://www.axner.com/search.aspx?find=RF+458
 

this will make the surface rigid-you can spray or brush it on fiber (I spray it with a mask on)
pretty cheap stuff -also called ridgizier
thin coat is best
https://www.axner.com/search.aspx?find=RF+458
 

I had 3 bones taken out of my wright wrist in 2012-I have not wedged  any clay from a bag  of new clay since then to speak of. I bought a peter pugger (used shortly after surgery) and do wedge that output either. I can wedge but choose to do so very rarely. I work with  high fire porcealin and have not seen any issues without wedging. 
At one time I weged the heck out of clay. These days  why bother the clay really does not need it out of the bag or pugger.
If the clay is homogenous and air free its ready to throw in my world.
I feel the montra of must wedge all clay is a false statement and should be questioned.
Modern clay is air free and homogenous these days ,at one time that was not the case
 Test the the limits and see if it matters you may find it does not.
My hands /wrists are much happier now-If I had it to do over I would have not wedged for the past 40+ years either 

Tables where full off 17 boxes of pots (13 banana boxes) , a large wholesale order just dropped off 5 hours south In Santa Rosa yesterday, 
now I have some space again

I have 3 giffens and never do they lossen. I have used one for 3-4 deacdes now. I think this must be all operator issues. If the grip is counter clockwise then the wheel must be counter clockwise. When the grip gets dirty they get very hard to move either direction. I take mine apart now and then and clean it and spray a small amout of silicone spray -then it slides to easy for a day or two. You can also drag your pant leg on it to keep it tight (never had to do this) I suggest reading the setup instructions again as this sounds like its not setup right. The slick washers go on the bottom under the 0-ring.Are you 100%v yoiu have the counterclockwise model?
Brand of wheel should play NO part in this as a wheel spins as a wheel spins-no matter the brand. The grip adjusts to any size wheelhead at setup.When adjusted right you do not have to  stop and tighten 

I'm not going to wedge.  Had carpel & bicubital tunnel surgery (from contracting) and after finishing my studio build I wouldn't dream of not getting a pugmill.  For the younger folks out there who plan on having a long career/hobby; any tool that can save your back/knees/wrists/elbows/lungs is paying you forward by extending your body's usable lifespan IMO.

I had 3 bones taken out of my wright wrist in 2012-I have not wedged  any clay from a bag  of new clay since then to speak of. I bought a peter pugger (used shortly after surgery) and do wedge that output either. I can wedge but choose to do so very rarely. I work with  high fire porcealin and have not seen any issues without wedging. 
At one time I weged the heck out of clay. These days  why bother the clay really does not need it out of the bag or pugger.
If the clay is homogenous and air free its ready to throw in my world.
I feel the montra of must wedge all clay is a false statement and should be questioned.
Modern clay is air free and homogenous these days ,at one time that was not the case
 Test the the limits and see if it matters you may find it does not.
My hands /wrists are much happier now-If I had it to do over I would have not wedged for the past 40+ years either 

I had 3 bones taken out of my wright wrist in 2012-I have not wedged  any clay from a bag  of new clay since then to speak of. I bought a peter pugger (used shortly after surgery) and do wedge that output either. I can wedge but choose to do so very rarely. I work with  high fire porcealin and have not seen any issues without wedging. 
At one time I weged the heck out of clay. These days  why bother the clay really does not need it out of the bag or pugger.
If the clay is homogenous and air free its ready to throw in my world.
I feel the montra of must wedge all clay is a false statement and should be questioned.
Modern clay is air free and homogenous these days ,at one time that was not the case
 Test the the limits and see if it matters you may find it does not.
My hands /wrists are much happier now-If I had it to do over I would have not wedged for the past 40+ years either 

I had 3 bones taken out of my wright wrist in 2012-I have not wedged  any clay from a bag  of new clay since then to speak of. I bought a peter pugger (used shortly after surgery) and do wedge that output either. I can wedge but choose to do so very rarely. I work with  high fire porcealin and have not seen any issues without wedging. 
At one time I weged the heck out of clay. These days  why bother the clay really does not need it out of the bag or pugger.
If the clay is homogenous and air free its ready to throw in my world.
I feel the montra of must wedge all clay is a false statement and should be questioned.
Modern clay is air free and homogenous these days ,at one time that was not the case
 Test the the limits and see if it matters you may find it does not.
My hands /wrists are much happier now-If I had it to do over I would have not wedged for the past 40+ years either 

Cone 11 fired 1/2 way is my lifes blood-If I had to choose between low or midrange I would be a midrange person. Low fire breaks much to easy . I did them all in art school (not midrange) and settled in at cone 10. I like wood and salt but my btread and butter is porcelain toughness with bright colors. They sell themselves and people love them for the durability.
I got this from square today in fact
  Wait Time, Quality, Other, Selection, Environment, Customer Service     Thanks mark! We appreciate your work. 
We have 4 mugs and 4 bowls and a butter dish with lid and 4 large plates, and few other things I’m not remembering. 
Plus all the countless gifts we’ve given to friends and family over the years. Thanks for your help, and take care!
 
All my collage low fire work is broken and gone except a jug from high school on a shelve (non functional ) most likely lead glazed.I was 17 or 18 then.It reminds me how far I have come. Must be about 1 foot thick wall as well.

Cone 11 fired 1/2 way is my lifes blood-If I had to choose between low or midrange I would be a midrange person. Low fire breaks much to easy . I did them all in art school (not midrange) and settled in at cone 10. I like wood and salt but my btread and butter is porcelain toughness with bright colors. They sell themselves and people love them for the durability.
I got this from square today in fact
  Wait Time, Quality, Other, Selection, Environment, Customer Service     Thanks mark! We appreciate your work. 
We have 4 mugs and 4 bowls and a butter dish with lid and 4 large plates, and few other things I’m not remembering. 
Plus all the countless gifts we’ve given to friends and family over the years. Thanks for your help, and take care!
 
All my collage low fire work is broken and gone except a jug from high school on a shelve (non functional ) most likely lead glazed.I was 17 or 18 then.It reminds me how far I have come. Must be about 1 foot thick wall as well.

You have to do the absorbsion test to anything about the end results. Underfired leaking clay is good for nobody no matter what the cost.

For me electric kiln firing was a stepping stone in my progression. I leaned to use them  and bought one in collage (used) and have always had one around working in some form. Out of school I used to bisque in mine now and again and would do luster and decal fires in one. I made my own beer bottle labels for a spell and fired them on in my electric as a 20 something . When I was starting I wanted to leartn about all kilns and electrics wherte in the mix. Now in my area electricity is very high price and tahst be a constant here a swell for my life.
But the heart of ceramics in the long run and what keeps me today in ceramics is the unknown or the  reveal if you will. In electric firing the results are (or where back then at least) very dependable.This was cone 06 back in my day not cone 6. I never heard of cone 6 in the 70s. Cone 6 was and is a temp I go thru to get somewhere else.The unknown is the results of glazes in reduction fires and the challage to make them spectacular. Thats the hook that got me and the same is true with my salt kiln. I like working with glazes and those on the edge are the best when they work. This unknown factor has kept me in production all these years. I love the unknown about every glaze fire -no knowing that all my effort is paying off or crap its a disaster (which by the way was a small kiln load last friday I overfired ) lost 1./3 of it but man the keepers are over the top. Now I;m a glaze and fire potter-thats the thrill not the making.
Sure I did raku,pit and wood firings as well as salt in school but reduction hooked me in the long run and I could build the kilns at home which I did during school as well.
Sure the making is fine but I like the glazing and firing better. I feel the electric is more like paint -you open the jar and thats that-now I know since cone 6 and making your own glazes (I mentored a few in this field) its more an unknown now but back in the day it was not. So I have put a few pieces in a friends cone 10 electric oxidation (he got the super duper high fire crystalline model to do that) and they looked like stock colors to me. I feel the electric is more easy to use and for sure to get permitted especailly these days. For me its gas reduction or die and its carried me for 45 years now. I'm sure if it was only my electric back then I'd be an electrician or Plumber full time now instead of a potter. I like the challage of the fire and in an electric you progarm it and once you find it thats that .Each and every fire for me is an unknown to some degree-thats the past I live for.

My wife had a new hip two years ago at UCSF in San Francisco.
Had her walking within day. Had a walker a few days than a cane for a week or so-real speedy recovery. All good very soon. 1st few days are thw worst then all good.