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Michael D

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  • Birthday February 4

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  1. Bill, what do you mean by "score the edgeline"? Do you mean seal the plaster on the edges? Please elaborate. Thank you! Michael
  2. Thanks Jeff. I do hammer it in lightly with a mallet. How much would it put me back for a little RAM press set up (or any hydraulic set up) that could make tiles up to 5 or 6 inches? --Mike
  3. Thanks Bill. I am not sure I understand what you mean. Are you saying that I will probably need to make another air-release mold and to densly pack the air tubing in the middle area? I tried a non-stick spray out of desperation and it seems to release much better. But it also left the top a little greasy. And I am not sure what this would do to the pores of the plaster over time....
  4. I went back and tried to sand away any under cuts I don't think it is that as I put a small pug in the middle where there are no real hard edges and with the air pressure it still did not pop out. I am thinking that it has something to do with the clay turning into a kind of mud and forming water adhesion, suction, that the small air bubble aren't overcoming. I tried to dry it off a bit and apply slightly drier clay (which is harder to push into the design). But it actually released better -- haltingly-- after about 8 seconds. But look at the clay film that it leaves behind on the ceramic mold. This suggests to me that something is wrong with adhesion to the ceramical for some reason. Any thoughts?
  5. I just might use the mold release that Mark recommends. But I still will want to know what I have done wrong for the air release not to work properly. I don't see any drastic undercuts. The Ceramical should be fresh enough. Just ordered it about a month ago from the ceramic shop. And the little air bubbles seem to be working. But it just partly comes out and gets hung up in the mold. These things should be dropping after 5 seconds of pressure. I have wondered if it was TOO wet and was forming a kind of slip with the clay I put in the mold, and thus clinging to the plaster surface.... see video.
  6. Mark: The Tiler has been discontinued. The manual and instructions only say to keep it moist. I've tried all kinds of variations of wet and moist. The tile just doesn't pop out as it should. The brown clay seems to want to cling to the plaster too much. I tried wet sanding the plaster to give it less texture but that doesn't seem to have helped one bit. Can the mold lube be used with an air-release? Without clogging the capillaries? thanks Md
  7. Hi, I poured my first air-release mold (to use with a Texas Tiler). The mold is very erratic in whether or not it releases the tile as it should. The tile just stays in there. I tried various things. I filed down and sanded angles to help remove any undercuts. That didn't work really. I sanded the surfaces with wet sandpaper to make it smoother. I even tried a little soap with little improvement. Any tips? Wetter or dryer clay? Non-stick spray? (will it clog the air pores?) I use about 60 to 70 psi. The mold is made from ceramical. (spelling?). It bubbles a lot from the surface so I know air is making its way. Please. please. please, any advice from experience! --- Michael
  8. I have some "ware repair" and some other products designed for repairing greenware and bisqued pieces. If, though, I have a finished stoneware mug that has broken, is there a way to fix it permanently with some product that will readhere the pieces in a second firing? Any tricks of the trade? I used a Loctite product and it didn't hold up very well. thanks Michael
  9. I never thought of oxygen needing to flood the surfaces of the tiles. If in the future I grooved the bottoms of the tiles this might make a big difference as it would allow much more oxygen and sulfates to come and go..... Right now it is just the texture from canvas, probably not enough. Thanks!
  10. Hi, I make small tiles in my ConeArt kiln, Cone 6. For economic reasons I have been stacking the tiles horizontally, sometimes several of them-- with not problems for the bisque firing. They seem to be bisqueing fine. My question is: so long as the tiles are dry, and that the kiln has sufficient power, is there any reason why I shouldn't stack the tiles much higher, say 5 or 6 inches high? Especially if I leave an inch or so space around each stack? Thanks Michael
  11. Stephen. Do you ever come to a conclusion about Hydrocal vs Cermical? And the best rubber for the model? thanks Michael
  12. Yes. you are looking at the underside of the shelf just above (no more than 1" above) the tiles with the glaze that copper and other ingredients I listed. I hadn't noticed this before and these are new Corelites. The glaze has no more than 2% cu in it. Maybe a chemical reaction with the new shelves... Thanks
  13. I’m curious why, above and around certain tiles, in closely stacked shelves, there is a clear brown halo. The glaze in question has among other things, strontium, lithium and copper carb in it. It’s clearly coming from just that glaze. Any knowledge on this and if this should be a health concern? (I run a venting fan during the firing.) thanks.
  14. Thanks Min! I read somewhere that the B2O3 (or boron) should be at least .14 for Cone 6. But you say that I may have too much alumina in the recipe for this. Is Silica easier to melt than the alumina? Is that why you suggest I get more flux (or boron) in the recipe?
  15. Hello all: as I examine the specs on glazy, trying to make sure I have enough boron for a proper melt (trying to get at least .15, it’s not clear what these numbers mean (circled in pics). It looks like I am fine with R2O. But it’s the boron numbers that confuse me. How should I see/interpret these numbers? mike
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