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Michael D

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About Michael D

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  1. I know that overfiring clay, say a terracota to C6, can cause the body to bloat, etc. But besides burning out colors, or perhaps creating a mismatch with a body intended for midfire, is there any fundamental problem with firing a lowfire glaze way beyond its intended cone? thanks Michael
  2. Also, (sorry to hijack this thread). My daughter made her first mugs (dark clay) and wanted to gift them to friends back at college. She is leaving soon and I don't want to rush it and ruin them. But I also need to have them finished by this weekend. If I fire a clear glaze on them and the glaze comes our with too many bubbles (making it opaque), is all lost? Can I fire it again and, say, soak longer, to clear the bubbles? I'm planning on brushing on the glaze very thinly this time. And slow firing it to C6 with a soak at the peak, and short soak coming down. Michael
  3. Thanks Neil! Will do. I also think that I was hasty in mixing my first test glazes, not sieving enough, and brushing them on too thickly, The glazes all looked great on a white body, but on the dark 710 (which I love) they look horrible. (Which makes me think it has something to do with escaping gases from the body) Michael
  4. Hi Bill: This matte looks great. I am a neophyte in this. Just trying to get a strong, stable workhorse or two base glazes. Cone 5 or 6. I ran my first tests and too many of them came out a little opaque, mostly from bubbles and pinholing, especially on dark clay bodies (710 in particular). I think I may have over cooked them (peak soak time too long, maybe an hour); did not let them slake long enough; but mostly that I brushed them on too thickly. I also plan to drop and soak (drop peak 100 degrees and let it soak there) as a way to reduce bubbling. My question is where are you getting that awesome software, chart stuff? Where it will tell you where your mixture lies in a spectrum from matte to gloss, and help you see the chemical content so well? thanks Michael
  5. Hello All, I love that bowl you made, Harley DP. Anyone have any experience finding a clear glaze that works on the 710 without pinholing and blistering? I ran a bunch of test tiles, C6, and none of my clear glazes came out well. Maybe I have to apply then paper thin to remove the blistering... Please, any advice.
  6. I'm new here! I am trying to start a small venture with my daughter, hoping to make what are called "cuerda seca" tiles. I see some companies making the patterns with a silkscreen, but by all the research i've done, it seems like using a colored wax resist (say, by Altofsa) will clog the screen up after only a few passes. Has anybody here make a successful wax resist that works well with silkscreening? I've heard everything from mixing wax resist with underglaze; mixing manganese (or stain) with linseed oil (stand oil); Some say to use frit; etc. Hhas anybody actually done this and achieved a line that holds strong enough to resist the colored glazes that are then filled in? And does the line actually adhere permanently with the bisque tile without bleeding, or flaking etc? thanks Michael
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