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    Napa, CA
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    Art Fishing Guitar

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  1. I can't comment on ceramics, but have sprayed a few cars. Old Lady is correct with the size of compressor for spraying. I used a 5hp/80 gal tank for cars (overkill for ceramics.) You can make a smaller compressor work, with a larger auxiliary holding tank attached to your compressor tank. They sell these, or if you can find a broken compressor with a nice tank, that can be plumbed to it using metal pipe. That way your compressor can fill it while your not spraying and hopefully keep up while squeezing the trigger.
  2. Banking excess would mean the system is way oversized for the kiln, after all your household use. Unless you're firing the kiln at a frequency you have time to 'bank'. It could offset it, but at the time I ran the numbers it wasn't feasible for that large of a system. I'd be interested in the frequency of kiln firing to get away with a substantially lower cost.
  3. Not worth it IMO. As Mark C. noted above a little 48amp kiln in 8 hours would use 92,160 watts (92kw) if it was on continuously. Same reason solar/electric heat isn't used on swimming pools. Maybe someday, as we get more efficient in both kilns and solar arrays.
  4. You won't be unscrewing any hardibacker off of plaster if it's installed correctly with thinset behind it. I believe mine is the pac-tool version. I'd have to look. Yes if you want a 100 year lifespan for tile, float mortar and don't use hardibacker. Plaster is already floated over lath or button board is is fine as a substrate. I wouldn't lose any sleep over tile on drywall though, particularly with a surface bullnose. It's done in million dollar kitchen remodels, when a flush surface edge is needed. There are some shuttler/kerdi products that might be a better option if you don't want to float the shower, but I've not used them. If I needed hardy cut accurately for, friction fit, insert batts, I would have it done on a water jet. Overkill for me.
  5. I should have read all of this. Tile or stone over drywall is fine as long as it's not over greenboard in a shower/tub surround or wet location IMO. I'd use a thinset with acrylic addmix. Tearouts would pull drywall off in chunks. A kitchen backsplash or bathroom wainscot is fine over drywall. Now if you want the tile proud of the surface 1/2" for quarter round or something, then I could see putting hardi on the drywall (sticking it with a loose acrylic thinset and screwing it to the studs. I typically used 1/4" for floors unless I needed to build up to meet an existing floor height with 1/2" (rare.) I prefer the 3x5 as their easier to handle, particularly in 1/2". I've not heard the shower floor thing, and there's no way I would use it as a shower floor, as you have to tilt 4 triangles to drain. PITA. I use dry pack mortar to get just below and sloping toward the weep holes of the shower drain, then install waterproof membrane (either hot mop or the rubber stuff) then more dry pack mortar sloping toward drain just below tile thickness (+ 3/16" for thinset.) You can often pay a tile-setter to float a shower pan (or whole shower) for you and then set over that. Otherwise might look at fiberglass shower pan and then tile on wall. I'd recommend seeing one done before trying it, if it's new territory. Hope this helps. EDIT: here's a forum specific: https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/index.php?s=f03c85095d8ebc16834ae92b49aa49d9
  6. I cut it with shears for straight and long curves. Similar to these, but I have a different brand: https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-5-16-in-Variable-Speed-Cement-Shear-D28605/100609310 For tight curves, I use a small, variable speed, angle grinder with a diamond blade. (wear a mask) I often would hold a wet sponge with the other hand to try to keep the dust down. The score and snap left the ragged edge that had to be dealt with, unless it was buried under a baseboard. The metal head makitas seemed to last the longest, but these tools were used daily over years. https://www.amazon.com/Makita-GA4542C-SJSII-Power-Grinder/dp/B00Z5LTO7O/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-5vGl6G48QIVIB-tBh01ewAkEAAYASAAEgINZfD_BwE&hvadid=177793429675&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9031979&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=1715063075264854854&hvtargid=kwd-2079029382&hydadcr=1646_9901548&keywords=makita+variable+speed+grinder&qid=1624812255&sr=8-8
  7. Typically, the nameplate rating is what we use or manufacture's recommended circuit size for the appliance. If Skutts' tech data recommended to size the circuit bigger than nameplate and it complied with code I would size it bigger. The problem is most companies throw in the 'must comply with local codes' to cover their rears, throwing the liability to the building dept who then tosses it on down to the contractor who tosses it to his liability insurance company, who he pays dearly for, which passes it on to the customer.
  8. Bill, exactly. 15amp receptacles can be on 20 amp circits, just like in your kitchen counter outlets or bathroom circuits. A metric poop-ton Neil, but code here has been taken to a new draconian level here in CA IMO. Liability only drives the bldg depts and if anything deviates from it they want a prof. engineer stamp. They used to make a 'residential' code book for homeowners, so folks could do their own home improvements and not have to wade through the larger code books. I don't know if that still exists, and even that was the UBC (building code) not mech/elec/plumbing.
  9. His clicking relays is moot. Art 424.3 (B) "Fixed electric space-heating equipment and motors shall be considered continuous load." (125%) I would not put a 50 amp receptacle on a 60 amp circuit. Art 210.21(B)(3) . . . "or, where rated higher than 50 amperes , the receptacle rating shall not be less than the branch-circuit rating." As far as disconnecting, if it's in a dwelling (residential bldg) it can be disconnected at the main service disconnect 424.19(C)(3) HOWEVER I personally would install a disconnect within sight of the kiln (you can use a breaker rated as a disconnnect) and I would keep it out of the heat affected zone (so I don't have to derate the equipment.) This is just for both convenience and safety IMO and what I would do on my own. I wouldn't be quick to disparage the electrician. As Bill mentioned it's complicated. Also, the code is written in legal'esce language and I wish they would name kilns specifically, most sparkys don't associate kilns with 'fixed electric space heating equipment' and rightfully so. It's confuzzling. Additionally, most industrial electricians are rarely sent out to a house to install equipment, and even many contractors do either residentilal/commercial/industrial/hospitals depending on locale and demand. BTW, my NEC is a 2014 so all this could have changed and not be current, so check the updated versions to confirm. My guess it hasn't changed much.
  10. I agree with Neil. 125% overrated. If I recall correctly, kilns fall under Article 424 'Fixed Electric Space-Heating Equipment' which includes electric boilers. I would consider it a continuous load as defined in Art 100 "A load where maximum current is expected to continue for 3 hours or more." But many disagree, as it can cycle on/off within that 3 hours, but I'd find it unlikely at startup. I'm ignorant of kiln internal workings. Typically you can't exceed a manufacturers rated name plate, and that seems to make most inspectors comfortable. Art.422.11(A) 'shall not exceed manuf. nameplate rating' (paraphrased) If no nameplate or manufactures info is available, I'd add up total wattage, divide it by available voltage and with that amperage I'd add 125% and size my branch circuit and breaker (overcurrent protection device) based on that.
  11. I would set the tile with acrylic fortified thinset on 1/4" hardiboard (unless it's exterior). It will be heavy and need to be secured solidly. I'm guessing this is more of a moveable work of art type thing rather than a permanent installation; otherwise it would be set directly on the wall.
  12. Nice! I can't believe I've never seen these bucket wrenches Denise mentioned before. I saw them in plastic and here's an aluminum one with a 14" (leverage) handle: https://www.amazon.com/New-Star-Foodservice-38019-Opener/dp/B009L8A1ME/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=pail+opener&qid=1623602127&s=home-garden&sr=1-5
  13. I always got my free buckets from the grocery store bakery depts (have to wash the sticky frosting out.) They come with a lid that keeps the frosting fresh enough, but snaps on tightly. Uline makes a gamma seal screw on lid. They're kind of spendy, but nice. I use mine on buckets for rice/beans/bread flour/sugar/etc. https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-17945W/Pails/Gamma-Seal-Lid-for-35-5-6-and-7-Gallon-Plastic-Pail-White?pricode=WB0549&gadtype=pla&id=S-17945W&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI54b49cqS8QIVchitBh147g2cEAQYASABEgL_XPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
  14. If moving the mic doesn't work. I'd tape rigid foam insulation around the base like a triangle. Can be cut with a utility knife. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Project-Panels-FOAMULAR-1-in-x-2-ft-x-2-ft-R-5-Small-Projects-Rigid-Pink-Foam-Board-Insulation-Sheathing-PP1/203553730 EDIT: if it's a vibration hum, could try these: https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Vibration-Damping-Pads/b?ie=UTF8&node=16413781
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