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About Mark_H

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  • Location
    Napa, CA
  • Interests
    Art Fishing Guitar
  1. I'm not going to wedge. Had carpel & bicubital tunnel surgery (from contracting) and after finishing my studio build I wouldn't dream of not getting a pugmill. For the younger folks out there who plan on having a long career/hobby; any tool that can save your back/knees/wrists/elbows/lungs is paying you forward by extending your body's usable lifespan IMO.
  2. Additionally, they also have handheld EMF meters on amazon that measure ambient EMF. I do not know if they are sensitive enough, but the pacemaker folks could possibly give you a maximum safe EMF, and then set the meter on whatever appliance/etc. and have another person switch it on to get a reading. Just a thought, I don't know if it's practical, but in my mind it would be nice to get a reading on something rather than look up specs (I question if wear would incread EMF also.) They're about $30.00 on amazon.
  3. Hi, I would call the manufacturer of your pacemaker. They will likely give you safe specs and what motor specs you need to look at. Then if you can find the manufacture or the wheel motor (not necessarily the wheel brand) and see if you can get any specs regarding electro-magnetic interference generated by the motor. Edit: there are motors that are shielded more than others, so worse case it's a no go with current motor, perhaps you can replace with a shielded motor. Pacemaker folks will know. They would be the folks I would trust.
  4. As far as electric. If you already have a 4-5" angle grinder, these can be used on ceramic wet or dry. I use them to bullnose granite/marble/ceramic (removes glaze and exposes body) https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Polishing-Backer-Granite-Concrete/dp/B00C46I104 Edit: forgot to mention it is a variable speed grinder I use. It needs to be slowed down for these to work properly
  5. Yep, thanks Neil. Not cord I meant line. Cords are limited in length and/or can be "temporary." I shouldn't post prior to my full coffee dose. And my ambient temp comment would effect ampacity derating of the wire. Yes, sparky can calc voltage drop, typically works out about one wire size per 100'.
  6. depends how long the cord is also. If it's a 100' cord, then it needs to be oversized to account for voltage drop. If it's an 'average' length cord, I'd leave it like Neil said. Edit: another reason to oversize wires is if ambient temp is higher (example would be a sweatshop factory on a mezzanine) then you have to de-rate the wire's amperage and oversize it. I doubt this applies to your case, but wanted to throw it out there that the amp/wire chart in the NEC doesn't always apply.
  7. Very cool Marcia. I've noticed all of Laguna's bodies that are for "large" application are listed as 'very coarse.' I was hoping to learn the nuances of one body, I don't know if adding grog to a porcelain body would cause it to behave like a completely different clay or not. At which point I might as well choose 2 bodies one for large format and then a nice smooth body for everything else. I've also noticed 'small' 'medium' and 'large' are variable terms. Large in my mind is Scott Semple's type of work:
  8. That's a dramatic glaze difference Min.
  9. That explained everything I didn't understand and what people in person were unable to get across to me. Thank you.
  10. Very cool. I didn't realize bodies could be altered to fit the purpose. When you say "better rate of non-failure" is that on the wheel, or firing, or either? I've not seen 50/50 at Laguna Website. Is that #550 or 1/2 dave 1/2 Babu? Now I realize I haven't used porcelain and comparing b-mix was errant. I just liked how smooth and un-gritty it was. I'll have to try some porcelain, now that I haven't tried it. :) Wow, 50 years. Barring a medical miracle, I won't get to play with it that long, but I'll take what I can get with the time I have.
  11. I've seen that. The video above, I think, is that style. Body . . . I've helped my potter friend and I'm okay. It was more just moose'ing the 300lb pots around, I wouldn't want to make a habit out of it at 50 (lifetime of moving heavy stuff.) He has two wheels and spins 18" - 24" high sections then we flipped them and stuck them onto the pot and wire them off of the upside down bat. Then he torches again and sticks on more. This was stoneware, very gritty stuff. On the bright side I should have access to a kiln for tall stuff, if I pitch in gas money. You're right, t
  12. I see what you mean with experimentation even if only 5 glazes. I read John Britts high fire glaze book and noticed iron in the clay body itself has a dramatic effect on the glazes. Perhaps a simplified data/record keeping system for the chronically disorganized So thin porcelain displays one’s throwing prowess? I’ve seen that video. I like his glazing technique. Reminded me of Jackson Pollack. Not heart set. Id like a 10 or 20 huge things around the yard, (planters fountains) but with contractor’s back, knees, wrists, and elbows , it would be short lived and not
  13. Appreciate the replies. I assumed there was a reason I wasn't seeing a lot of giant porcelain stuff. Thin, why thin porcelain? Is porcelain not conducive to thick walled works also? Yes, I find it borderline overwhelming what with : underglazes, glazes, resist, scratching, clay body variations, glaze chemistry, degree of reduction, wood, soda, and now apparently body to types of work desired. I was hoping to find one body and a handful of glazes (I dig the shino, chun, celedon, temoku, oxblood stuff) and just focus on art and not chemistry, logging kilns, reading MSDS sheets
  14. Thank you. I think my lack of experience adds to my confusion. It sounds like using porcelain for 3/4-2" thick 5'-7' tall pots (or half wine barrel sized planters 36" diameter), while can be done, would have a lot more chance of failures/waste (on the wheel/kiln?) than a different clay body. So the right tool for that job would be a non-porcelain body, unless I wanted a high failure rate and few finished products for the work invested. i.e. glutton for punishment, use porcelain for large format work. Am I understanding this correctly? And the sand (which I dislike the feel
  15. Hi, long time lurker, first time caller. Started a college throwing night class last year and loved it, but fell short with Covid. Additionally, have a buddy potter let's me use his studio prior to covid (see a pattern here?) I'm thinking about slowly assembling a studio, and wondering about clay bodies for wheel/handbuilding/large-scale My question is about porcelain. I loved the buttery-smoothness of the B-mix (which I hear is similar to porcelain but now read it's a cracky mess drying) but the folks I've met that throw big pots (5'-7' 200-400lbs) all use a real sandy (grogged?) sto
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