neilestrick

Handiness is a secondary benefit to having gone through college ceramics programs. We never had much of a budget, so if we needed something like table or shelving, we built our own. When things needed fixing, we did it ourselves. In grad school we even ran our own plumbing for the gas kilns to save money. It drove the facilities guys nuts, but we always passed inspection.

Handiness is a secondary benefit to having gone through college ceramics programs. We never had much of a budget, so if we needed something like table or shelving, we built our own. When things needed fixing, we did it ourselves. In grad school we even ran our own plumbing for the gas kilns to save money. It drove the facilities guys nuts, but we always passed inspection.

I rarely ever pay someone to fix things, especially in the studio. At home I will hire someone only if it's an extreme situation that's beyond my ability as an accomplished DIY'er, like if I need a new roof. I enjoy fixing things, though, so it's not a problem. You either need to be handy or need to be able to write a check.

I rarely ever pay someone to fix things, especially in the studio. At home I will hire someone only if it's an extreme situation that's beyond my ability as an accomplished DIY'er, like if I need a new roof. I enjoy fixing things, though, so it's not a problem. You either need to be handy or need to be able to write a check.

I rarely ever pay someone to fix things, especially in the studio. At home I will hire someone only if it's an extreme situation that's beyond my ability as an accomplished DIY'er, like if I need a new roof. I enjoy fixing things, though, so it's not a problem. You either need to be handy or need to be able to write a check.

I allow food and drink in my studio, except during glazing week. The rest of the time they are only touching clay, no glaze materials, so there's not any real risk of ingesting something dangerous. We have a pretty steady supply of baked goods and candy coming through the studio.

I allow food and drink in my studio, except during glazing week. The rest of the time they are only touching clay, no glaze materials, so there's not any real risk of ingesting something dangerous. We have a pretty steady supply of baked goods and candy coming through the studio.

If you've got those bats that are made for the Aspire that have the grid on the backside, I wouldn't be surprised if they wobble. It's common for that type of bat. The Speedball bats do it too. It may or may not be an issue once you get some clay on the wheel. Have you tried throwing on them?

Damper at the exit flue. Assuming the flue opening is the correct size, the full draft of the chimney is too much and you need to be able to damper it down. Otherwise too much heat goes out the stack, and you can't control the pressure in the kiln or secondary air draw.

Damper at the exit flue. Assuming the flue opening is the correct size, the full draft of the chimney is too much and you need to be able to damper it down. Otherwise too much heat goes out the stack, and you can't control the pressure in the kiln or secondary air draw.

At 1 cubic meter you've got about 32 cubic feet of interior space, so you need a minimum of 500,000 btu/hr, probably more, to get to cone 10. I'm betting your little propane tanks are freezing up more than you think, especially if you're running more than one burner off a tank.
You need a damper to control the secondary air draft and internal kiln pressure. Your burner ports look to be pretty big for a burner of that size.
The lack of safety equipment on the burners is troublesome. They're not even mounted to something that will keep them in place. And it looks like the heat from the chimney is going straight onto the building above?

Damper at the exit flue. Assuming the flue opening is the correct size, the full draft of the chimney is too much and you need to be able to damper it down. Otherwise too much heat goes out the stack, and you can't control the pressure in the kiln or secondary air draw.

At 1 cubic meter you've got about 32 cubic feet of interior space, so you need a minimum of 500,000 btu/hr, probably more, to get to cone 10. I'm betting your little propane tanks are freezing up more than you think, especially if you're running more than one burner off a tank.
You need a damper to control the secondary air draft and internal kiln pressure. Your burner ports look to be pretty big for a burner of that size.
The lack of safety equipment on the burners is troublesome. They're not even mounted to something that will keep them in place. And it looks like the heat from the chimney is going straight onto the building above?

When you have a cylinder that is open on the bottom, as it tries to shrink it will catch on the shelf and warp. By putting a slab under it, the slab will shrink with the cylinder, allowing the cylinder to shrink freely. I've even had tall foot rings on large bowls warp.

Test tiles. My shop is closed for the next 2 weeks, so I'm going to focus on getting some things done that I haven't had time to do, like running glaze tests. I make my tiles by throwing a 3 pound ring at the edge of a 13 inch bat, then decorating it with underglazes and cutting it up into about 25 tiles.
 

Test tiles. My shop is closed for the next 2 weeks, so I'm going to focus on getting some things done that I haven't had time to do, like running glaze tests. I make my tiles by throwing a 3 pound ring at the edge of a 13 inch bat, then decorating it with underglazes and cutting it up into about 25 tiles.
 

Test tiles. My shop is closed for the next 2 weeks, so I'm going to focus on getting some things done that I haven't had time to do, like running glaze tests. I make my tiles by throwing a 3 pound ring at the edge of a 13 inch bat, then decorating it with underglazes and cutting it up into about 25 tiles.
 

Test tiles. My shop is closed for the next 2 weeks, so I'm going to focus on getting some things done that I haven't had time to do, like running glaze tests. I make my tiles by throwing a 3 pound ring at the edge of a 13 inch bat, then decorating it with underglazes and cutting it up into about 25 tiles.
 

Test tiles. My shop is closed for the next 2 weeks, so I'm going to focus on getting some things done that I haven't had time to do, like running glaze tests. I make my tiles by throwing a 3 pound ring at the edge of a 13 inch bat, then decorating it with underglazes and cutting it up into about 25 tiles.
 

Hi Bernardo,
Welcome to the forum! 
Per the Marketplace Terms and Conditions , you cannot use the Marketplace for commercial sales:
Suitable/Unsuitable Items
•    The Marketplace is for personal sales, trades, or donations of new or used ceramics-related items owned by the Ceramics Arts Community member involved. Note: Commercial suppliers are not eligible to post items. Items posted by an individual on behalf of a commercial supplier will result in the item being removed and the individual being banned from the Forum.
It's simply a place for people to sell used equipment and supplies that they no longer need.
Per the Forum Terms of Use:
The content of this site and its forums is for private, non-commercial use only. No advertising of products, services, or employment opportunities is permitted, and any content deemed inappropriate will be edited and/or removed by the site administrators and moderators at their sole discretion. Advertisements may be placed in the Ceramic Arts Network Classifieds.
Thank you for taking the time to ask about this before posting!

Made a "bead popper" from an empty Chap Stick tube.  Automatically centers the hole in the bead.  

Hi Bernardo,
Welcome to the forum! 
Per the Marketplace Terms and Conditions , you cannot use the Marketplace for commercial sales:
Suitable/Unsuitable Items
•    The Marketplace is for personal sales, trades, or donations of new or used ceramics-related items owned by the Ceramics Arts Community member involved. Note: Commercial suppliers are not eligible to post items. Items posted by an individual on behalf of a commercial supplier will result in the item being removed and the individual being banned from the Forum.
It's simply a place for people to sell used equipment and supplies that they no longer need.
Per the Forum Terms of Use:
The content of this site and its forums is for private, non-commercial use only. No advertising of products, services, or employment opportunities is permitted, and any content deemed inappropriate will be edited and/or removed by the site administrators and moderators at their sole discretion. Advertisements may be placed in the Ceramic Arts Network Classifieds.
Thank you for taking the time to ask about this before posting!

I think the displacement of the liquid by the steeper. The clay steeper will have a lot more volume than a thin metal one, so it will displace more water when you put it in the mug, possibly overflowing the mug. Might be best to put the steeper in first, then pour the water in. Or throw them super thin?

I developed a new platter mold, and a new approach to illustrating koi fish. I'm pretty excited about these.

I don't know how many times I stressed to students that throwing a bowl by starting with a cylinder style open up with a flat bottom was just a dish! Maybe I am a stubborn purist, but a bowl has a rounded inside, a smooth curve from one edge to the other through the bottom. In the long run they got the idea, and admitted they worked much better than a flat bottom.
 
best,
Pres