Mark (Marko) Madrazo

Brookside In.Clay.Nation

I'd thank her for her kindness and compassion in a private setting. And ask her to please refer any student to you. So you can best assess and help your student. As for the older gentleman, I would maybe spend a little private time with him. Have a warm talk and see where his mind is. Talk with his family. He might have some memory loss, as someone mentioned, but a little kind help on his project, couldn't hurt. Your class could be the last good thought he remembers.

There is all kinds of cost going into making a pot. But I cost out mine and I set my profit margins according to where I am selling. Know your audience. There's a difference between selling at a local farmers market than in a gallery. It's the clientele. But no gallery is going to put a beginner in their shop. Costing it out, is a little time consuming, but then you can come to a reasonable price. Cost out on one piece. how much did the clay cost per pound? Cost of delivery or travel cost in gas (mileage is a deduction). Cost of glaze (Shop recipe( cost out each ingredient in recipe vs Commercial). I calculate when I buy my raw material(cost/#, delivery cost, labor to make a batch, cost per recipe (gram). Cost of the bisque and Glaze firing. (this is best by doing a full load of the same kind of piece). Every kiln is a bit different. You can Google the formula: Calculating the cost of firing an electric kiln. Of course summer rates can be different than winter, unless you have locked in the price with your electric provider. I pay .11/Kw. once you have this you can divided the cost by the amount of pieces fired. A single $8.00 firing divided by 50 pieces = .16 each. Cost of your total time from start to finish make a mug (before firing) based on what you would pay yourself per hour. Exp. (15 minutes or 25% of $20.00=$5.00) then add in the cost per piece fired + cost / # clay. = your cost. Set a profit margin you want Keep records is very important as material cost can change. It's seems like a lot, but once you've done it you will have a good idea if you should be a potter and sweat blood and tears or get a day job. Watch the videos here and there and take a class or work for a seasoned potter that can train you in exchange for work or practice practice practice. Make mistakes and learn from them. It takes years to find your talent as a potter. But only the goods ones get reclaimed and pugged when they died. At least you came to the right place for answers. That's a good start.

Found this: http://www.pottery-magic.com/pottery/clay/low-shrink.htm There are pottery clay bodies that can be made that have almost no shrinkage. It is made from a large amount of talc mixed with a small percentage of standard clay. The result of this mixture is not all clay, it will act like plastic clay to a certain extent and can be worked in much the same way. Talc is magnesium silicate and when mixed with water has many of the properties of clay, but with little or no shrinkage. It is also highly resistant to thermal shock and can be fired in minutes instead of the usual hours. When mixing a low shrink body, you can use up to 90 percent talc. If you use any more than this, the body will lose its workability and firing strength. With the addition of 10 percent standard clay, the necessary chemistry for firing is retained. Low shrink clay should only be fired at low temperatures because talc loses its density at 2110Ëš F or 1100Ëš C and will collapse. When fired to a temperature of about 1900Ëš F or 1040Ëš C the clay will fuse and be almost as dense as porcelain. When talc is used in small amounts in clay, the talc acts as a refractory ingredient, giving good resistance to heat and thermal shock and making it and ideal addition to ovenware pottery. Clay with talc added are mainly used for commercial tile manufacturing because the clay can easily be rolled or pressed, will shrink little or not at all and will not warp when drying or firing. Talc is also much cheaper than clay and its low expansion rate makes for a good craze free glaze fit. IDK, but maybe with no shrinkage you could get the results you are looking for.

4 4 3 2 I think #4 was a tricky question. I picked #2 because I have seen a friend of mine back in the days when I was in College. She applied it at the leather hard stage. But I think it can also be applied at the bisque and bone dry period. But IDK about wet clay. Maybe if it is not too wet. But hey, sometimes you gotta break the rules and try it out. I haven't, but I bet someone did. Could have interesting effects, maybe. Aw man, now I gotta make a engobe. Soon as the heat here in South Texas gives me a break.