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Everything posted by dhPotter

  1. I also have a base white liner that has made 3 other liner colors. On Tony Hansen's website is the chemical analysis of Butterscotch I used to back into the glaze recipe, with the help of glaze software - this is now 1 of my favorites. From MC6 - Licorice, Raw Sienna and Waterfall Brown which pairs very well with Butterscotch. From Britt's ^6 book - Bailey's Red 2 and Val's Turquoise. From Steven Hill's Spraying glaze workshop - Red Orange, strontium crystal magic cool and warm, Juicy fruit Cool, SH Copper Ash and Hannah's Fake Ash Iron. From the internet - Hsin Matte Black, Pete's Seafoam,
  2. It may be legally OK. But there are moral, ethical and honorable issues at play. Because the law says it is OK does not allow me to forget the author requested I not distribute the document without the author's permission. I was wrong in mentioning I had the document.
  3. The cone that was used in the sitter claw, is it bent 90 degrees? If not you need to calibrate the sitter. Plenty of info and videos on the interweb telling you how.
  4. @ChloeElizabeth I cannot share this document as it is copyrighted and I do not have direct permission to share the document. About your consistency issue - weigh all balls of clay, pull them up as far as you can. Do 10-12 balls at a sitting, each weighing the same amount. You will improve.
  5. I have it saved in a Word doc. It is copyrighted. Not sure how John Baymore feels about sharing this document. @LeeU find out if it is OK to share. Thanks
  6. LT I'm not sure. The link did not load the pic of the cover. I remember, from my class in 1983, it was a black hard cover.
  7. Will see if I can locate that text book. And while I'm at find my Art history book!
  8. In Quantitative Decision Making class we worked with a route planning formula for delivery trucks. Might make the route planning a little easier and maybe more economical. Excellent article!!
  9. Way back when I was taking an Arts & Crafts class we used white bread and white glue to create a modeling paste. After creating the piece we let it dry then used acrylics to paint it.
  10. @oldlady, Right now the chickens and their eggs are priceless. Have heard of a dozen eggs going for $7 in the grocery stores. To attach the hardware cloth to the plexiglass, I drilled holes thru the plexiglass (place tape over the plexiglass at your drill point then drill), then cut a piece of 1x4 to fit the width of the plexiglass. Put the 1x4 on the back side of the plexiglass, this is your "nailer". Screw, using deck screws with a pan washer, the hardware cloth thru the plexiglass into the 1x4 to hold it all.
  11. @oldlady, I did exactly what Tom Turner did in that bookmark you have. Only thing I did wrong from the begining was not use a powerful enough exhaust fan. This past fall I switched it to an attic fan like Tom Turner. It has made a world of difference with sucking the glaze haze out. If you do things the way he has done them you will do well. My booth is inside my studio and it is on wheels. The exhaust goes out a window where the booth is backed up to. The fan is about 4 inches from the open window. The most important part is to have the thin plastic film at the top of the booth that allows t
  12. Have you a decent clear glaze? My clear glaze crazed but I did this any way and got a very nice base glaze, that does not craze, to add colorants. Do a line blend between the clear and the G2934 Dolomite Glaze. 20/80, 70/30, 60/40, 40/60, 30/70, 80/20. You will find a a nice satin glaze somewhere in the line blend. I added 12% zircopax to get a white liner glaze. The liner is 60% clear and 40% Dolomite Matte. I have added 5% Black stain to get a light grey, 2% robin's egg stain to get a nice light blue. I use the G1214Z Silky Matte with the 6% rutile, 3% copper carb and 1.5% cob
  13. Liam do you mean hardiboard? If it is hardboard, what kind?
  14. The handle is the first thing I spray on a mug. I usually brush on glaze around the handle attachment at the lip. A couple of coats. This is done after pouring the day before spraying. Holding the mug in 1 hand, spray the inside of the bottom attachment from different angles. Then spray the underside of the handle from the bottom to top of the handle. Now spray the outside of the handle spraying from bottom to top, at an angle. After the mug body is sprayed I'll hold the mug in 1 hand, bottom facing away from me and lightly spray from the top of the handle down a little bit to encourage
  15. In a larger kiln we don't place wares on the kiln floor. We use a kiln shelf on a 1 inch - 2 inch support above the kiln floor. Not sure about these smaller kilns. @oldlady could probably tell you more about this.
  16. Tamra do not apply the kiln wash to the kiln itself. Apply the wash to the kiln shelf and the ends of the shelf supports. Also, only apply wash to 1 side of the kiln shelves. Clean up any wash that may have slopped onto the sides of the kiln shelf.
  17. The wax on the bottoms of pots is to allow for easy clean up of the bottoms after dipping or spraying glazes. If you have left the bottom 1/4 inch of the pot glaze free this is good to go. For those pots where you don't have about 1/4 inch unglazed area, you can use a damp sponge and wipe away the glaze. Give the stilts back to your friend, you do not need them.
  18. Regarding sprayed glaze thickness, This pic shows a "chunky velvet", that is what you are trying to get. The area that is smoothed out and cracked has too much glaze applied. When you start filling in the chunky you are applying too much glaze. I use the Critter spray gun.
  19. Very good glaze layering application. Love the glaze combos you have come up with.
  20. In a glaze spraying workshop we used a paper as cookies under our pieces to catch runs.
  21. I only do 1 show a year, the Merry Christmas Market. This is my second year to do the show. It is a 1 day show. Sold $300 more this year than last year. All smalls, nothing over $20. This year I had made ornaments, did not last year. Without those ornaments would not have sold near as much this year. A Thank You to @DirtRoads for the push into making ornaments!
  22. Babs, only replacing the 2% or so of bentonite with the "brushing medium". Still use EPK or Ball Clay as required by the recipe. The replacement more or less makes the glaze in the bucket thixotropic. I like that because I only glaze every 6 weeks or so. Glazes do not settle out in the bucket. This is the only difference in the recipes from the original printed recipes. Several years ago I took a Steven Hill workshop. He had us bring "light or white" firing clay so we could spray glaze and then fire them that night. I only use light or white firing clay. OldLady uses a white firing clay,
  23. FWIW, I have not altered glaze recipes because of raw glazing. My glazes mainly come from John Britt's ^6 glaze book and Mastering Cone 6 glazes. I don't use bentonite, instead using a medium special mixed by another potter. This medium, I have been told, is similar to what Magma does to a glaze. As far as moisture, never had a problem. I pour glaze into cylinders, let dry overnight. After spraying the glazes on, the pieces sit overnight before being loaded into the kiln. The 1 main problem I have occurs in the late winter/ early spring. Our location is normally 50%+ humidity. But for a week
  24. Segments 2 & 3 are the difference between bisque ware and raw ware glaze firing. Segments 4 & 5 are to aid in letting pinholes heal themselves. Segments 6, 7 & 8 try to produce crystals in the glaze. Not the big flower looking crystals. Glaze cone 6... Segment Rate F*/HR Temp Hold 1 200 220 30-60 2 100 500 0 3 400 2050 0 4 108 2185^ 15 5 9999 2085 20 6 9999 1700 0 7
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