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About 1515art

  • Birthday 02/23/1953

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  • Location
    Santa Clara, California
  • Interests
    I began my journey in clay in 1970 and have never regretted getting my clothes dirty ever, in addition to ceramic art i enjoy prospecting in the mountains, collecting jade and fishing on my boat.

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  1. Cracks in stuff, not just clay will it ever be crack free? That depends, you can stop a crack sometimes, you can fill a crack sometimes and you can make the crack a part of the design by carving it out or covering it up. On the bottom of a complex piece where the bottom ‘s not visible from the inside or if like in your case the defect is only visible from the bottom, if the piece is glaze fired sometimes I will make a new base to attach with a low fire glaze to cement the bottom to the new base the new part can be fired to match the original artwork or complimentary but different. Attaching the two pieces at a firing temperature well below the original firing temperature puts less stress on the clay during the latter firing. Heck the new UV light activated polymer glues work great attaching the pieces together too on decorative items. stopping a crack if it is complete is key to dealing with a crack, this involves at a minimum drilling a small hole at the end of the crack at both (all) ends this distributes the stress contained within the clay in this case over a greater area stopping the crack from running and then carve out the crack into a v shaped depression for later filling. After the crack is stopped by relieving/redistributing the stresses the crack can be carved out and made into a design element, covered with a sprig or in the case of green ware slowly filled with multiple coats of paper clay slip sanding the surface when dry to match the artworks surface. Epoxy putty and acrylic paint is another useful item for restoration work, the putty I’ve used has been pure white and sanded has a silken texture similar to porcelain, I imagine it can be colored with stains as well as painted. I’ve restored Chinese porcelain filling cracked broken areas and by making new parts with latex rubber molds made off intact similar objects finishing the parts with a jewelers flex shaft and small carving bits, cementing them in place with more putty. will these tips always work, probably not but if done carefully I’ve had success more times than not and rescued hours of work, you need to decide if this works aesthetically for your piece. One more thought, use a Dermel tool and diamond bit and carve the crack into a signature or an intentional mark if you are lucky enough it has taken a shape you can use and have the skill to control the tool.
  2. Tom Thank you. this series “one small fish” is a reflection on Autism to swim alone as one small fish in a giant ocean.
  3. Thank you, I got lucky with the glaze breaks.
  4. It probably works for me because I seldom (never) do slip cast objects and do mostly press molding with my plaster casts, I’m only interested in the quality of the mold surface and if the object releases from the mold, dryings not an issue and so far I’ve never had issues attaching parts or with the firings because of the oil. I guess I’ve used it for years because it good on the skin and was handy one time when I needed something not knowing any better, I’ll have to try the soap.
  5. When making plaster casts of things I’ve had pretty good luck using olive oil as my mold release agent, the spray cooking olive oil works well.
  6. No, it didn’t warp when I stuck it together it was off a little depending on what angle you look, I figured I’d just go with it sometimes you have to know when to quit. The glaze is cream with speckles dusted with red/gold.
  7. Tx, I’m having a hard time warming up to them actually these are not glazes that I picked ou and while I think they are OK my eye wants to focus on any defect. Eventually I’ll adjust, the cream colored vessel has a nice silky texture, although I’d prefer slightly more distinct iron specks.
  8. Dh, really beautiful glaze combination it complements your forms nicely.
  9. Times were very different when I was in college back in the 1970’s the whole getting sued thing wasn’t so out of control. I lived very near my local community college and the ceramics professor gave me a key to the studio so I could help fire the kilns, two big old alpines.
  10. Hi Shawnhar, yes one piece. I do the flair collaring the clay with the fingers of my left hand and little finger and thumb from my right hand while using my right index and right middle finger to throw the rim flair all at the same time. It’s a little tricky until you get the feel, but the technique works really well making closed forms.
  11. Joseph, very nice, l think you should be pleased and I like it a lot.
  12. 1515art


    Thanks Roberta, credit goes to glazenerds glaze...
  13. 1515art


    Glaze test: coyote c6 red/gold on t2 stoneware
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