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  2. Hulk
    When I've used Nerd's reclaim mix, a very small amount (a quarter cup to about three gallons of reclaim slurry; OM4 is the ball clay I'm using...) makes a discernable difference. Verticals cracks shortly after throwing - Studio Operations and Making Work - Ceramic Arts Daily Community
  3. DDMiller
    DDMiller joined the community
  4. Pres
    When recycling clay for the ceramics classes before summer vacation, I would add a few ounces of vinegar into the pug mill. Over the Summer months the clay would set in 50gal plastic buckets with damp towels with a water vinegar soak in them. Every Fall the recycled clay was better than the clay direct from the boxes. Students noticed the difference and I did take the time to explain that the organic material in the vinegar had chance to age the clay with organic material. best, Pres
  5. s6x
    to maximize the number of tests a test tile provides is it ok to test glazes both on the front and the back of standing tiles? or will the chemistry go through the clay and interfere with the other side? I read an instance where a glaze should not be used on a pot if that pot was glazed on the inside as well.? is this a common issue or just a rare occurrence specific to one particular type of glaze?
  6. Today
  7. Denice
    I add some ball clay to my 5 gal bucket of reclaim when I add more waste clay, just a handful and mix it in. I like to work with a clay that has more body to it so I can hand build with the recycled clay. I also use it for the original piece when I make a mold, you have to toss the original piece and first mold pull. Denice
  8. Min
    This came up the other day, might help. https://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/41668-midfire-clay-short-when-recycled/ Given your reclaim is already on plaster slabs if it is still fairly wet I'ld put it back into a bucket with some more water and add the blunged bentonite or ball clay/bentonite and slurry mix it again with the plasticizers. The smaller the clay particles the greater plasticity you will get from them, bentonite is much finer than ball clay which in turn is much finer than EPK.
  9. neilestrick
    I've seen it done both ways, and it totally depends on the kiln and how it was designed. Often the flue opening is tall enough that putting the shelf up high enough to be above it isn't possible and wastes too much space. In that case I would leave the bottom shelf a couple inches from the back wall. If you have a flue channel in the floor of the kiln, so that the bottom shelf can be above the flue opening without wasting space, then I would first try it with the shelf against the back wall and see how it goes. In general, I think the target bricks and the bag wall height are going to have more of an effect on performance than the orientation of the bottom shelf.
  10. Min
    My understanding is the Ardvark Soldate 60 is is 50 Lincoln Fireclay, 25 OM4, 25- 60 mesh sand and 2.5 spar. Yup, it is gritty and very workable and forgiving.
  11.    Magnolia Mud Research reacted to a post in a topic: Clay recommendations for wheel thrown sculptural work
  12. neilestrick
    Isn't that pretty gritty, though? I think the 60 means 60 mesh grog/sand?
  13. Graceadieu
    Graceadieu joined the community
  14. Graceadieu
    Hi - I have a laser J9 in UK and have been reading this thread to learn more about firing it. I raw glaze and fire to cone 03 in ca 13 hours at fastest but sometimes it can take 16 hours. I think this is a combination of inattentive regulation /kiln watching and setting. do you guys advise setting bottom shelf at a level above flue outlet and hard up against back wall, so that gases pass beneath the bottom shelf into the flue or, do you set bottom shelf low and clear of the flue outlet? I have seen it both ways. perhaps you set all shelves hard against back wall? I have seen that suggested. any advice welcomed.
  15. apclay
    Hi everyone, I’m noticing my reclaim is coming up short, even though I’ve saved all of my throwing water and slip. (For reference, the clay bodies I am trying to reclaim are Laguna B-Mix with Sand and another already reclaimed B-Mix I got from a studio, both ^10). I went to my local clay supplier and asked what they recommended to add plasticity and they said bentonite and EPK so I bought those. My reclaim is on plaster slabs right now, almost ready to wedge, and I’m trying to figure out how much of each raw material to add to my clay. I’m also unsure of how to incorporate the materials into a clay that is not in its dry state. Can anyone point me in the direction of a good recipe to follow? Thanks in advance! Baby potter
  16. Min
    Soldate 60 is great stuff. It's a cone 10 clay but for sculptural firing to midrange would work too. I've known people use it for Raku firing also.
  17. Denice
    Kelly thank you for the informative reply, it gives me a little more hope that it will work. Me and my arthritis are to old to make another set. I could buy a set but I like unusual daily utensils in my life. Denice
  18. Denice
    Maybe you could contact the clay company and see if they have a technician that can help you with choosing a clay. I have had problems with Laguna's Buff clay cracking in slab type sculptures and B Mix has always cracked for me. I would be interested in finding out what the clay is that the clay company recommends. Denice
  19. Yesterday
  20. BHB
    BHB joined the community
  21.    Pres reacted to a post in a topic: Gare K-10 Kiln
  22. BHB
    Does anyone collect, or are interested in old Ceramics Monthly magazine? I have quite a few in excellent condition from the 70’s and 80’s. Email tobegrateful@outlook.com
  23. Babs
    You can get small digital pyrometers, hand held devices, not very expensive in the scheme of things. I would install a timer set at about 1/2 hr post target cone drop. This is a backup, essentialimo, inxase the sitter bar doesn't drop for some reason. Long time potters, eg @Pres can guage the temp according to colour if kiln interior but until colour shows you're in the dark. :-))
  24. tman123
    I would like the clay to be somewhat smooth - not necessarily like porcelain but not super coarse.
  25. tman123
    I am not too concerned with the color of the clay/Aardvark is near me. As far as the cone of the clay, I am hoping to stay in the cone 5 range but these pieces are sculptural and will only be for display purposes.
  26. neilestrick
    I'm not familiar with Laguna bodies. Is that the only brand you have available near you? Is vitrification and glaze fit important to you, or do you prefer a cone 10 body so it's more forgiving? I assume you want white, not brown, since you were using BMix?
  27. tman123
    do you have any good recommendations ? im firing in the cone 5-6 range
  28. Min
    Could go faster to 1500F then resume your regular schedule. edit: I just read your other post about this in the another section, given they are very important pieces the safest bet would be to do the same schedule but without any candling (if you did this). Maybe go a bit faster but not breakneck speed. I'm going to delete your duplicate post.
  29. Sage Real
    Do you recommend starting the bisque over and taking the whole 7ish hours? Or do you think it’d be fine if I were to do a quick ride up to the 1500 and slow it down from there?
  30. tman123
    h
  31. Min
    This thread is a continuation of this one started by @Mark C. regarding the addition of another K2O feldspar to replace Custer: Vardhman feldspar from India. Chart comparing Vardhman with other potassium feldspars plus the analysis I received from Vardhman.
  32.    PeterH reacted to a post in a topic: Reitz Green without Gerstley Borate?
  33. Min
    I have the analysis for Vardhman, I'll add a pinned thread on potash feldspar changes. edit: Pin link added here. https://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/41698-potash-feldspar-comparisons-of-custer-mahavir-g200eu-and-vardhman/
  34. Min
    Good find Peter. When I look at the analysis for both there are other differences too though. Definitely a fragile mechanism to get the green. Reitz Green with Gillespie doesn't need the lithium carb and dolomite additions when I played around with altering the recipe, the silica is a tiny bit higher in the Gillespie version but given the differences in the Floating Blue recipe that might or might not be consequential, I don't know. A simple addition of iron with a reduction of cobalt would be simple to test Hansen's theory if it translates to Reitz Green also. I suppose RIO would be the logical material to add as long as speckles don't become an issue. Or black iron oxide might be better if you have it.
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    • SWalker

      SWalker

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    • pottery007

      pottery007

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      Joseph Fireborn

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      Fred Y

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