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Worktable: Buy or Make?


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Hi all, the one piece of furniture for my new studio that I haven't decided on yet is my main worktable. I was thinking something about 3'x6' (preferably on locking casters) would be a good size for me. But looking around online I just really don't see anything suitable to buy, and wow, some of them are selling for some really crazy prices. Did most of you all just build your own worktables from 4x4s, 2x4s, and plywood? Any worktables you really love or recommendations for me if I decide to build mine? Did I miss anything good that I could order off-the shelf?

Edited by HenryBurlingame
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Previous studio (a one bay garage) had built in work surfaces over cabinets - enough space for a full kiln load plus a space to glaze - a previous owner had repurposed some old cabinetry and used solid core doors for the countertops. The surfaces were smooth and well sealed - easy to clean up.
The height was ok, not ideal, being just a bit low for working while standing, thus a bit high for working from my roll around chair.
We added a raised platform for two book (pottery) shelves, with space underneath for five gallon buckets, repurposing solid core doors we picked up from a construction site (cut in thirds), and several rows of track shelving on the walls as well.

The new studio (also a one bay garage) is a rectangular space with a window and rollup door.
I'm using the workbench we made for a flooring project* and a folding table (Lifetime rectangle). I'm surprised how much I like the folding table! It's smooth, cleans up easy, and can be moved or put away. I plan to add a roll around cart; not sure if I'll do a permanent/fixed countertop this time... ...I did really like the raised shelves with five gallon storage underneath, will very likely do that again.

So, ideal heights/levels, easy to clean, cheap (or already in possession), and modular are factors for me.
Repurposing solid core doors and heavy packing crates has worked well...

*It's an ideal height for operating a chop saw. The table top is from a packing crate.
I'll circle back with a picture.

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The plywood top and heavy cross pieces were part of the shipping crate.

The table saw clears the diagonal cross pieces - that's where it went, years ago...

Note the back plate sits up from the edge an inch an' a half or so, for  "oh no you don't things" that run for the back edge ...

In its current position/role, needs the top sanded off and a coat of tough finish applied, else a flat smooth something overlayed.

IMG_20240602_130536725.jpg.fb19ae669e8ef17cec02726f956972d4.jpg

Edited by Hulk
minor edit
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Depends on how much you want to spend...You can get a set of folding banquet table legs from Amazon and get a used door slab and a couple of 1x4s the width of the door slab to attach the legs to and you have yourself a table. you can go the way of the 2x4s and plywood, but it will cost significantly more $$$.

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Cost is not too much of an issue, I wouldn’t mind spending money on something prebuilt that actually looked like it would be worth it… but I have not found it yet :-).

I just need something the proper size and height with the proper surface that is solid and will stand up to every day use… and with rolling castors and a shelf underneath. Simple right lol?!

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The lower level, that would seem to go well with casters, for it should stiffen the stance considerably. Watch the shin clearance... 🤔

My repurposed worktable wouldn't be a good rollabout option, I wouldn't think - it stands free just fine, shines against the wall. It cost time and screws.

Spec the wheels with care - this is where I am with a rolling cart, for I want to roll it over two door thresholds, not track dirt, soft on the floor, two steerers, two fixed, good locking,  ball bearing axles...

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@HenryBurlingame, is your studio floor perfectly smooth and free from obstructions? With a very heavy table with storage shelves, you would need various places to move it to, and you probably would want to unload it for moving. Rolling a table loaded with pots from glazing area to kiln, for example, would be hazardous, even with clear pathways. Is that practical for you? Is there another reason you want it movable? Cleaning or access to the wall behind? I think you might be asking too much of one table. 

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A few years back, I bought a series of wooden topped workbench tables that were about 2ft by 8ft. They were excellent for ware boards under, and for glazing and assembly work. These were for the HS, and held up very well. 

 

 

best,

Pres

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4 hours ago, Rae Reich said:

@HenryBurlingame, is your studio floor perfectly smooth and free from obstructions? With a very heavy table with storage shelves, you would need various places to move it to, and you probably would want to unload it for moving. Rolling a table loaded with pots from glazing area to kiln, for example, would be hazardous, even with clear pathways. Is that practical for you? Is there another reason you want it movable? Cleaning or access to the wall behind? I think you might be asking too much of one table. 

The floor is vinyl plank so pretty smooth. I wouldn't be wheeling it all around the studio, just to get it out of the way for more room loading the kiln etc.

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I agree, rolling a table with work on it is dangerous. 

If money doesn't matter, buy one if you can find one that fits your needs. Otherwise building one is pretty simple- 4x4 legs, 2x4 rails, 3/4" top, 1/2" or 3/4" lower shelves, depending on span. A 4' deep table is difficult to reach across. I wouldn't go any deeper than 2 1/2 or 3 feet if unless you want to work from both sides. I've got tops made from  3/4" MDF soaked with linseed oil, and others made with particle board sealed with poly. I only used the particle board because I had some laying around. I don't work directly on those tops with moist clay, so it doesn't have to be totally smooth. The MDF tables you just have to be careful about leaving puddles on, as it will make the surface rough. The linseed oil makes them a bit more durable, but still porous enough for moist clay work. A few days after application there is about a week where the oil stinks. Tung oil or others would probably work just as well and not stink. If you don't work wet clay on it, I'd do MDF sealed with poly. Super smooth and durable.

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Posted (edited)

Think I found something that might work. Uline has a line of heavy duty packing tables. Steel with maple top in various sizes, adjustable height, shelf, and can put casters on it if you want. Price is reasonable and shipping isn’t bad since they have a facility in-state:

https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-7607-MAP/Heavy-Duty-Packing-Tables/Heavy-Duty-Packing-Table-72-x-36-Maple-Top

 

Edited by HenryBurlingame
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