Crooked Lawyer Potter Posted May 28, 2022 Report Share Posted May 28, 2022 I keep having problems with the pedal for my wheel. I'm on my 3rd pedal now since they dont last very long before becoming hard to turn off. Perhaps because my studio is very dusty and dirty and they get "clogged"? Beats me. And I cant figure out how to open them up to examine for the problem. There seems to be no way to open other than 2 pivoting small screws on each side upon which the pedal hinges, but they do not seem to be removable. Can anyone enlighten me about how to open these things? Or why they go bad? Or how to fix or avoid? It will always go fast, but hard or impossible to stop completely. I have to STOMP on it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted May 28, 2022 Report Share Posted May 28, 2022 (edited) I think you are right, I would keep the pedal clean after every session with that particular pedal. What brand is it? Can you gently lift off the tabs on the sides and slide the top off one of your old pedals? I am guessing this comes off fairly easily when new for regular maintenance. If this does come off, then some pictures of it should provide more insight. Who knows, might be a great pedal with a little regular maintenance. Edited May 28, 2022 by Bill Kielb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted May 28, 2022 Report Share Posted May 28, 2022 Looks like a CI/Speedball pedal? If you push in on the metal pivot pin on each side you can pull the top and bottom pieces apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crooked Lawyer Potter Posted May 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2022 It came with my Speedball Big Boss Pottery wheel. I see no markings on the pedal itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted May 28, 2022 Report Share Posted May 28, 2022 (edited) 5 hours ago, Crooked Lawyer Potter said: It came with my Speedball Big Boss Pottery wheel. I see no markings on the pedal itself. So can you gently lift each side to pry off the top of the pedal or push the pins in one at a time and pull the top off? Does the pedal operate smoothly? If yes then, is it a low speed motor adjustment? Follow the video at speedball art on you tube to set your lowest speed with about 1/2” pedal travel remaining so that when the pedal is released fully the wheel stops fully. Edited May 28, 2022 by Bill Kielb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted May 29, 2022 Report Share Posted May 29, 2022 When you get it apart clean it up and put a thick plastic bag around it to keep it clean in your studio. Then no more dust issues JohnnyK 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crooked Lawyer Potter Posted May 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2022 Thank you all. The pins do push in to release the two halves although its not easy to do. Ive also learned that it doesnt hurt to wash them out well. Its working now and in a zip lock bag to protect. dont know what i would do without my potter friends here. (Yall know anything about small engine repai?) Rae Reich 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyK Posted May 29, 2022 Report Share Posted May 29, 2022 2 hours ago, Crooked Lawyer Potter said: (Yall know anything about small engine repai?) It's probably the carburetor...if not that, check the engine's compression... Hulk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulk Posted May 29, 2022 Report Share Posted May 29, 2022 Aye that, however, I'd check the spark first. Piedmont Pottery 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted May 29, 2022 Report Share Posted May 29, 2022 On 5/28/2022 at 8:37 AM, Crooked Lawyer Potter said: I'm on my 3rd pedal now since they dont last very long before becoming hard to turn off. The good news? If you saved your old pedals you probably have enough for life. 1 hour ago, Hulk said: Aye that, however, I'd check the spark first. Depending on spark no spark, Check points first, condenser, then ignition components. Hulk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piedmont Pottery Posted June 1, 2022 Report Share Posted June 1, 2022 Check fuel filter and air filter too. Hulk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyewackette Posted June 2, 2022 Report Share Posted June 2, 2022 On 5/28/2022 at 10:27 PM, JohnnyK said: It's probably the carburetor...if not that, check the engine's compression... Wait - do cars still HAVE carburetors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyK Posted June 3, 2022 Report Share Posted June 3, 2022 12 hours ago, Pyewackette said: Wait - do cars still HAVE carburetors? If it's a small engine, it might be in a small car. Just depends on how old the car is! Pyewackette 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulk Posted June 3, 2022 Report Share Posted June 3, 2022 Still lotsa carbs out there. Both our chain saws, the string trimmer, the blower, all handed off to our son - each has some form of carb, no fuel injection. We still have the pressure washer though; it's fitted with a strong running Honda engine. Last time I went to start it up, no go. I dribbled a few drops of gasoline down the carb throat, having a'ready checked that the plug appeared good and the mag was supplying a fat blue snap/spark, got a few bangs and some smoke, then nothing. From there, pulled the carb, which is fitted with a float, needle valve, and fairly simple jet. Ah, some time ago, oops, forgot to run out (or drain) the carb; the needle valve was gummed up, also the jet's orifice. After the work, I ran the float bowl dry and drained the tank as well. :| For me, the way back machine is breaker point ignition and distributors (for multi cylinder engines) which many youngsters haven't seen. For my Dad, it was make and break ignition, single cylinder slooow rpm gas engines, and steam power. There were folks around when he was a kid using such things, and his Dad, my Grandpa, had started out in the woods repairing and maintaining steam donkeys - some time after his stint as a guard at Folsom. Down the line, I'd expect that piston port two cycle engines will be long gone (err, maybe they a'ready are?), with gas powered piston engines in general not to long after that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyewackette Posted June 4, 2022 Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 My dad's first car was a model T. It might not have had a carburetor at all (I have no idea what those things involved other than having to crank the engine with a literal crank). One of my first cars had a manual choke. That was fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted June 4, 2022 Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, Pyewackette said: might not have had a carburetor at all (I have no idea what those things involved other than having to crank the engine with a literal crank). One of my first cars had a manual choke. That was fun. Yes the Model A and T had carburetors but ………. No fuel pump! To go up a steep hill folks would often do it in reverse to keep the gas tank level above the level of the carburetor. Incidentally those were vapor carburetors, run your car on gas vapors only. Miss my 1932 Oakland. Those were the days. Edited June 4, 2022 by Bill Kielb Pyewackette 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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