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Wax resist questions


ronfire

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I have not done much with a wax resist but am learning ( slowly). I purchased the wax resist from PSH but not to happy with the results but it might be just using it badly.

I apply cone 6 clear glaze by dipping and  use wax on lidded pots. I have watered it down 10-15% and apply with a sponge on the wheel. I tried a brush but find I get more drips into the pot and can not clean the brush after. My biggest problem is I find there is a lot of glaze on the wax that is all in beads and have to wipe it off more than I like. I have tried thicker coats and find that the wax will start to ball up. I still find that my lids will often stick and have to drive a wood wedge in to release them.

Is there a better wax to use of a better way to apply?

Should I add Alumina to the wax to help? if so how much ? do I just stir it in or brush some on after waxing while it is still wet?

Have been thinking of trying a paste floor wax and see if I get better results, may be essier to apply for my applications.

Thanks

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Bad wax is a common issue-do not water down thin wax as well

I use my wax with a cut piece of sponge that is 1st wet with water (squeeze out the water 1st)I can spin the pot in hand better /faster than on a wheel head.

I do gthis every two weeks with large volt]umes of pots. We hot dip all flat bottoms. hand wax the any pot with a foot or a lid ot a lotion bottle with threaded tops

My studio assistant does the hot waxing I do the hand waxing-about 47 cubic feet of wares every two weeks-I buy wax in 5 gallon buckets-I have 15 gallons now.

read this thread -then call seattle pottery and order the good stuff-you need to ask for it by name as they sell a few kinds

 

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@ronfire, if it's freezing up by you I wouldn't order wax right now, it doesn't work well if it's been frozen.

Try burnishing the wax resist with a scrap of saran wrap once it's dry or carefully run a heat gun over it then burnish it. If your lids are sticking stir a couple heaping teaspoons of alumina hydrate into the wax, add a few drops of food colouring to it so you don't get it mixed up with your regular wax. It sinks quickly in the wax so keep it stirred up and don't get any on the glaze or you land up with glaze like sandpaper. 

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Even when you get wax just right, there's still a tiny bit of wiping to do, but it should be touchups, not a major job. I don't use alumina in my wax, but I find it helpful to give lid galleries an extra wipe down with clean water, just to make sure there's no glaze residue left. I do get a little sticking, but a quick gentle tap with a wooden stick releases them easily.

I use the stuff from Plainsman, and get best results if I leave it out for 6-8 hours to thicken to the consistency of whipping cream first, rather than thinning. Then you don't get drips. To avoid your brush getting clogged with wax, work a little dish soap into the dampened bristles before you begin to use the wax. Don't make the brush too wet, because you'll get bubbles, which are a nuisance. 

 

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I like georgie's reed wax resist. It's quite thin but it's fine to freeze and thaw which is important because my studio is an uninsulated shed.  It has no dye so best to use some food coloring so you can see where it went on.  Mobilcer-a was good but ruined when frozen.  

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2 hours ago, Min said:

Ron, Totally Ceramics in Surrey carries Reed wax resist. It's about 20- a pint there, don't know if they ship.

Min, I searched their site and only found Mayco wax.

I will try some of the above methods with the wax and see if it helps.   Thanks for the help.

 

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2 hours ago, ronfire said:

Min, I searched their site and only found Mayco wax.

I will try some of the above methods with the wax and see if it helps.   Thanks for the help.

 

Their website is pretty bad, lots of stuff isn't listed on there. Give them a call, I know they carry it. I go past there about once a month, pm me if you want me to pick you up a jar and I can mail it up to you.

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I use Standard wax, watered down some and with alumina recently for less drag.

I apply it right side up, to the bottom, allowing surface tension and capillary action to draw it up and allowing gravity to keep the drip in the brush and not running down an upside down pot.

Something like a cd case can be filled or just wetted, and then dip the feet into it, this allows the same line, which is determined by the consistency of the wax, porosity of the clay etc., But it's consistent and clean.

I love the way it smells! 

Sorce

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/10/2020 at 11:21 AM, Min said:

Ron, Totally Ceramics in Surrey carries Reed wax resist. It's about 20- a pint there, don't know if they ship.

Last time I stopped by, they had Georgie's and Mayco resist, no Reed. That was more than a month ago...

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3 hours ago, 2Relaxed said:

Last time I stopped by, they had Georgie's and Mayco resist, no Reed. That was more than a month ago...

I spoke with them when Ron was asking about this,  they said they had it in but half the time I go there they are confused about something or other. 

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16 hours ago, Min said:

I spoke with them when Ron was asking about this,  they said they had it in but half the time I go there they are confused about something or other. 

I should keep checking back with them.

 

On another note, a product called Polycrylic (from Minwax) was recommended to me  to be used as wax resist. I got a can of it at Canadian Tire but haven't tried it yet. The only caveat was that it doesn't work well if applied over a coat of glaze with intention to mask out parts of a pot and apply a different glaze on top. It was on clearance, so a pretty sweet deal for a quart at $11!

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