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Everything posted by 2Relaxed

  1. Ooooh, I think this article will help me a lot: https://ceramicartsnetwork.org/pottery-making-illustrated/ceramic-glaze-recipes/glaze-chemistry/an-introduction-to-color/#
  2. Late to the party but Campana Grey might be what you're looking for.
  3. Thank you all for replying, and Neil, thank you for the generous offer of Hyperglaze help. Callie, I like your idea of doing initial biaxials and then mixing them together, I hadn't thought of this approach. I haven't tried Mason stains before and don't really plan to at this point. I understand that the results may be more predictable than when using oxides but I'm feeling adventurous right now. So, when planning to use oxides in blends, which combos, do you think, I should try?
  4. I have finally found a base formula that doesn't craze on my very capricious porcelaneous stone body. Mixed a 2000g batch without any additives. I want to create a few blends to see what colors I can get but I'm a bit lost here now. I've only done one triaxial blend before (with a different base formula), and with this one I want to try so many things. I'm looking for greys/blues/greens. Maybe a yellow or something close to it. Don't want anything in the brown/caramel range. I'm pretty sure they all will have to have about 5-6% of rutile based on the same base recipe I saw with colorants added. So, that leaves me with selecting oxides/carbonates. I'm thinking copper, cobalt and nickel, also RIO. I suppose if I want to add pinks/purples I'd have to use tin and chrome as well. There're so many variables though. How to systematize the approach to getting the colors I want? Is it better to do line blends? Biaxials? Triaxials?
  5. What do you think would be a good substitute for "fluxes" that are commercially available, like Mayco's light/dark flux, or Amaco's Honey Flux? They're glazes on their own, and are marketed as something that can make a stable glaze move when applied in combination. So, I figure, they're similar to very fluid neutrally colored/uncolored glazes, am I right? Having been through ordeals of grinding bad glaze drips off my kiln shelves, I've been sticking to stable glazes. But they can be a little boring and sometimes I want to create a variance, without having to mix multiple buckets of new, more "interesting" glazes. Yes. I'll risk my kiln shelves for that. But I have a good supply of cookies, too.
  6. Interesting, and you're probably right I don't remember it doing this before but maybe I just didn't pay attention to such a silly little thing. I'm on high alert now!! OK, I will assume that aside from the undefiring issue, which may not even have been real, we actually did fix this kiln!
  7. One more update. After sitting unplugged for a while, the PF code shows up by default when I plug the kiln back in. I'm able to clear it and enter the program and start the firing cycle. Not sure what's up with this though...
  8. Unloaded the kiln just now. I had a bunch of small, glazed low fire pieces on the bottom shelf; I single-fire them sometimes together with bisque. The glazes look mature on them, but still not a definitive confirmation of the temperature as they are for cones 07-03. Oh well. At least they're done for sure.
  9. Update. I think we managed to fix it. My son replaced the super capacitor which was bad. Not sure why he discounted his own initial theory about capacitors but we did circle back to it and figured it was the one directly related to the PF code. The kiln has completed the previously unfinished bisque firing yesterday. However, it underfired by about 2 cones when it normally slightly overfires. Not a big deal for bisque, it probably ended up at soft cone 06, which is fine. But it would be a big deal for a glaze fire and now I don't know what to think of that! Was it because of the hot weather? Was it because the new capacitor is bigger than the old one? (even though it shouldn't be involved in temperature regulation, only in running the board while the power is out...) Any ideas? Also, I should say that I have used the same cones that were in the kiln when it gave me the PF code. I realize now that adding a new cone pack would probably have been a good idea but I hadn't done that... I think I'll have to do another bisque before I'm brave enough for a glaze fire! Min, thanks for the tip for the future! The new one at Greenbarn is about $500 as it turns out.
  10. We checked all three and they appear to be fine. The transformer test shows correct voltage. Our next suspect is a chip on the board (or the circuit around it) that detects power failure.
  11. Thank you Bill, I'll convey your insight to my so and research the controller prices here in Canada, I suspect they might be quite a bit more expensive here than 250-350! And will keep this thread updated with what help Skutt has to offer.
  12. So... I got the code again today. Bisque fire to cone 04 and the kiln didn't reach the temperature this time. I emailed Skutt support, will see what they have to say. My son (an electrical engineer) is offering his help in fixing the issue. His theory is that it's the old capacitors that are to blame. The kiln is over 25 years old btw. I don't fire often, less than once a month and have had it for les than 3 years. Replaced all elements and thermocouple after I got it.
  13. Yes, I always use at least one pair of witness cones, so fingers crossed. I will report back here.
  14. Thank you for all the replies. If I don't do anything about it, do you think I can proceed with the next firing? It'll be a bisque, might be a good way to try and see what happens, no?
  15. I'm really puzzled because there was no outage on that day in the house. The kiln's panel, like I mentioned, feeds from the main panel in the house. I was home all day, working on my computer. Plus if there's an outage, there several appliances that let me know there had been one (blinking lights, beeping) - nothing like that happened.
  16. I opened the kiln and the cones tell me that it did reach the temperature, so I won't have to refire. But is there anything else that could have caused the PF code I wonder...
  17. Hi all, my kiln was doing a cone 5 1/2 glaze firing today. Last time I checked on it, the temp was in the 1400 range, climbing. Well, a few hours later it's displaying "PF" now, which, according to the manual, means power failure longer than 2 minutes. By my estimation, it should have reached the temperature about 3 hours ago. There was no power failure in the house. The kiln lives in a detached workshop that has a separate 100Amp panel (feeding from the house's main panel). Not sure what to do. I'm letting it cool right now. I guess I'll only find out whether it has reached the temperature after I can open it, is that right? I do have a couple of witness cones to see how hot it ended up getting. My question is - what could have caused this code? What can I do to prevent it in the future?
  18. Thank you all for suggestions and insight. I offered a replacement or a split price and got a nice response so I will be replacing that mug. They're even willing to wait for the new mug to be made (I'm a super low volume and very slow potter). All good here. But this got me thinking - how often do we take a mug whose handle fell off back to the store and say: "Here's what happened"? Of course the price point is very different in store-bought vs handmade, but still...
  19. It's a local buyer so I should be able to arrange for pick up unless they gave the mug as a gift to someone who's not local...
  20. Thank you Min, I will ask to get the broken one back. I hope I'll be able to gather some clues as to how/why the handle came off...
  21. So Mark, when you say "split the difference" do you mean the customer gets 50% off on the new mug? Do you also refund half the $$ paid for the broken mug? I will be offering a free replacement but would like to explore this "split the difference" way as well.
  22. So this morning I got this email from a customer: "Just wanted you to know that the handle came off of the mug I bought from you for a Christmas gift. It was being hand washed and the handle just came off! Have you had this problem before?" I've never had this happen to anyone and I take great care to attach handles securely. Should I ask the customer for a picture? Will I be able to tell whether it actually came off or it was broken off? This would only be for the record and to learn for the future. I think I should just refund a move on? What would you do?
  23. Has anyone tried firing a neodymium magnet? My son wanted to put one in with a recent glaze load but I politely declined LOL
  24. Check this out: https://www.kristenvanpatten.com/cardboard-perforator The machine you mention is thousands of $$$, this potter/jeweler made his for a fraction of a cost! (And his brutalist pottery is amazing!)
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