Pres Posted December 9, 2019 Report Share Posted December 9, 2019 No new question in the QotW pool, so once again. . . Pres will pose one: How do you deal with kiln electrical problems? My biggest reason this is on my mind is that I am having problems of late with my kiln. First I had a fuse burn out, as the L & L uses two fuses for each section of the stacked kiln. Last few firings, bisque and glaze, have been out of timing (my fault). However, further investigation shows that the bottom switch is not cycling. So I assume that I will have to replace the switch for that level. This will mean an order to L & L for the switch, and while I'm at it, I will probably replace the blocks where wiring is connected. I know that many would have an electrician do this job, but since I have been using and working on kilns now for over 40 years, this fix is not a big problem. However, I believe it is a good discussion, so once again I will ask: How do you deal with kiln electrical problems? best, Pres Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denice Posted December 9, 2019 Report Share Posted December 9, 2019 I use to take my kilns in to our local ceramic supply store and have them rewire or repair it. I have tried in the past to get my husband to do it for me, he wouldn't even look at the kiln. Since he has retired he is willing to try repairing thing out of his comfort zone. He has the knowledge but was more comfortable hiring someone to fix it. He was a technical writer and illustrator and wrote manuals on how to operate and maintain buses, airplanes, tractors and amusement rides. He had to have a working knowledge of electrical, computer, pneumatics, and plumbing systems. My test kiln need new elements so I had him rewire it as his first kiln project. The elements slumped out of the grooves, so he pinned them back in with the help of the propane torch. It worked like a champ, this gave him enough confidence that when my big Skutt needed rewiring he jumped right in. He has even took the kiln sitter apart a few months ago and sanded the contact set. I had some bad experience with electricity as a child, I try not to work on it. Denice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pres Posted December 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2019 Yeah. if not careful you can get some really serious reminders about electricity, ie pulling a fuse while powered!!! best, Pres Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted December 9, 2019 Report Share Posted December 9, 2019 I kinda just jumped right in and ran my own circuit, wired up a controller and figured it out with some help along the way. If I can learn something and avoid spending money it's a double win for me. Just know the risks going in and be a bad judge of your own ability and the sky is the limit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Callie Beller Diesel Posted December 9, 2019 Report Share Posted December 9, 2019 In the name of having everything properly connected, I hired an electrician to do the work in my panel, but I dug the trench and assembled the conduit for the line. I haven’t had to replace any components yet, but I have no problems working on an unplugged kiln. Take pictures before you disassemble anything, and make sure you put things in order as you take them apart so you can put them back the same way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted December 9, 2019 Report Share Posted December 9, 2019 I have extensive experience with electrical design and maintenance so a bit unfair actually. I struggle to put diagnostic and maintenance information in a form the average potter can truly relate to. As a former electrician early in life I know ”tight” connection often has a very different meaning to me than non technical folks. Having seen the result of loose connections melting a six hundred amp panels and all associated pipe work until the shopping center transformer shorted out gives a new importance to tight mechanically sound connection when one experiences it. Having said that, electricity is simple but the potential for catastrophic failure is significant. Having said that, there are simple non contact thermal techniques that can benefit all with respect to diagnostics and are economical. So I guess the answer for me is, in my own repairs, I am pretty free to do what I am comfortable and knowledgeable about. While doing these It probably would be helpful to simplify them for others if practical and then relate them cautiously to the community when someone has a need. But of course Potters are not electricians or technicians so always err on the side of having a qualified person look at it. After all, when a I tighten something I have that image of a nearly burned out building in the back of my head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyK Posted December 9, 2019 Report Share Posted December 9, 2019 The kiln itself is a basic electrical unit comprised primarily of elements relays, switches and timers outside of the electronic control which tells the relays when to turn on and for how long with input from a pyrometer. Recently a friend had a problem which she attributed to the kiln sitter and asked me to take a look. I removed the KS from my kiln to have as a spare for the repair to hers if needed...it wasn't needed. She hadn't turned her kiln on for more than 2 years and basically forgot to reset the timer which prevented her from turning on the kiln. So with a twist of the timer knob she was good to go. Since I myself have forgotten to reset the timer (I have an Orton external controller), I decided to just leave the KS out and rewired the kiln without the KS and everything works just fine as my 2 latest firings were right on as far as comparable run times for the cone settings. So as far as the question...I jump right in, troubleshoot and fix it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denice Posted December 9, 2019 Report Share Posted December 9, 2019 A few years ago there was a potter on one of the forums who had his kiln wired in by a neighbor who said he was a electrical expert. It was a old house with knob and tube wiring, I even knew that was a dangerous combination. His first firing the wiring in the walls got too hot and burned part of his house. He quit pottery, I miss him on the forum we had the same weird sense of humor. Denice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted December 9, 2019 Report Share Posted December 9, 2019 2 hours ago, Denice said: A few years ago there was a potter on one of the forums who had his kiln wired in by a neighbor who said he was a electrical expert. It was a old house with knob and tube wiring, I even knew that was a dangerous combination. His first firing the wiring in the walls got too hot and burned part of his house. He quit pottery, I miss him on the forum we had the same weird sense of humor. Denice Brings a sad new meaning to first firing. Sorry to hear but glad he is ok. There are real risks to just doing things for sure. Especially with electric. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilly Posted December 10, 2019 Report Share Posted December 10, 2019 When I bought my first kiln, the previous owner had used sticky tape to fix a graze in the cable. Other half decided to replace the length of cable, but didn't speak first. He didn't know old elements were brittle, so broke one. Decided it was a good idea to replace both and also some of the contact/connector bits. Several years later, we decided to put a dedicated socket on the outside wall of the house and run a cable direct to the kiln. One plug connection instead of the three we previously had was so much better. We actually employed an electrician to put in the connection direct from the fuse board. Only bit of electrics my mechanical engineer other half hadn't done himself! Since then he has employed a "sparky" for a couple of other jobs, but mainly coz he couldn't be bothered to be up a ladder! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pres Posted December 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2019 A few addendum's to my first post: I don't run 220 wiring, I will run a direct line from the kiln into the box. I will run 120v wiring. I research extensively my kiln, correct methods of changing elements, switches, and other parts under the pretty orange box. I check with hotkilns.com on parts needed, even to using my serial number on the kiln if needed. I replace elements when needed, although if in a hurry finding an element out, I will shock weld the element until after the firing when I will change the element. I do keep spare parts from fuses to elements and even bricks on hand replacing such as needed. My kiln is over 30 years old now and still looks and runs well. I fire without setters or controllers and over the years had very few accidents. Even after knowing about the problem with the bottom switch staying on full time, I had a perfect firing on Sunday unloaded today. I just made certain to balance the heat by turning up and down other switches as needed so the top would not get to hot. best, Pres Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted December 10, 2019 Report Share Posted December 10, 2019 I am close to replacing all new elements in my skutt 1227-and while its apart I'm going for all new body bands as mine are just rusted through-also new clamps (mine are toast) and maybe some section handles as they are rust buckets as well.-should cost 500-600$ in parts from skutt. Bricks are still in great shape (only used for occasional bisqueing) I'll do all the work myself after xmas season is done. working up the parts list now.Its a manuael kiln which is always tiutrned on high and my fire right controller turns it up.So relays are not used at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted December 10, 2019 Report Share Posted December 10, 2019 On 12/10/2019 at 10:01 AM, Pres said: I replace elements when needed, although if in a hurry finding an element out, I will shock weld the element until after the firing when I will change the element. @Pres Shock weld? I have intertwined elements in a pinch to finish a firing and it usually gets one or two firings out of the element. Never heard of shock weld, how do you do it? Sounds like a good temp fix in a pinch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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