mousey Posted March 16, 2016 Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 First post here, sincerely hope I'm within guidelines for asking this... Tokuro, 1969 The white bubbly glaze... can anyone suggest what that is/how it might be made? I see a lot of variations on that theme and would love to get an idea of what 'base' to start with to obtain similar effect.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denice Posted March 16, 2016 Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 This looks like a crater glazes with a iron wash, there are many crater glaze formula's out there. Some potters that are good at glazes play around with them and mix it slightly different each time. I would search the internet for crater glaze recipes and do some testing. Denice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatthewV Posted March 16, 2016 Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 See the bare/thin spot on the lower right? I looks as if the body had pinholes added. Cheating is good technique in my book! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mousey Posted March 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 You folks are absolutely amazing, THANK YOU!! Will tuck into everything referenced with enthusiasm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mousey Posted April 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 Well this is a bit of a bummer; someone had posted a great basic shino recipe here and then deleted their post?! Damnit... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Bridge Pottery Posted April 13, 2016 Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 Seems to me the basic shino 'look' is somewhere around 60-80% feldspar and 20-30% clay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted April 13, 2016 Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 John Britt achieved something like this by adding something organic to one of J Baymore's glazes. Do a search on that. Not the real deal but "similar" effects with out the woodfiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted April 13, 2016 Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 Could be a traditional shino -- Neph Syenite 80% Kaolin 20% or Neph Syenite 70% Kaolin 30% Optional to either is 3% salt. The top one is a bit dry; the second is a bit glossier. Applied thin, you get red; applied thick, you get white. The brush work is iron oxide over the glaze. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted April 13, 2016 Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 If the pot is from 1969 I'm betting its fired to cone 10 reduction in wood or gas fired kiln. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 The maker . . . http://www.e-yakimono.net/html/kato-tokuro-jt.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mousey Posted April 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 Wheeeee Im back in the saddle, thanks folks Will be firing my first cups and bowls this weekend using a Ns/Kaolin base and probably getting frisky with a few other additions just to keep it interesting. Pics to come! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrim8 Posted April 17, 2016 Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 How did it go Mousey? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mousey Posted May 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2016 How did it go Mousey? It was a hilarious and spectacular series of missteps requiring the services of an electrician to upgrade the garage wiring and then fix the after-market cord attached to a new Skutt, haha. And that's before I figured out that cone 05 does NOT equal cone 5. No my friend, it does not. Simply put, I'm having a blast. Hopefully Ill get something put together I can justify posting in the next week or two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted May 6, 2016 Report Share Posted May 6, 2016 Ceramics takes a lifetime to absorb then you will need another lifetime to start getting it right I would not trade my 40 + years in it for anything. Stick at it and sooner than later it will come together Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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