Hulk

Just glazed two kiln loads  (35 cubic car kiln and 12 cubic updraft kiln) and loaded them for a 5 am start.Been glazing for a day and a half. Just like last week and the 6 before.
Been at this for 6-7 weeks straight now in a row. Just received my largest  natural gas bill I have ever had in a 30 day period in 49 years. That means I'm working  way to much
I brush (skunk and deer hair brushes) and dip the glazes and use a ear syringe as well. Dipping is faster and with this many wares its all that makes sense.
I am using aboiut 15 different glazes now-firing to a soft cone 11 gas reduction.
Only  28 days left until clay vacation  starts-that means stay out of studio and do paperwork and trim fruit trees

Late this week, or early next week folks, but no new questions in the QotW pool, so I will pose another question.
When I started glazing in college, I had usually about 8 different cone 9-10 glazes to choose from in a studio that had a gas burning kiln that I believe may have been around 30 cu ft. The glazing was done with dipping, pouring and brushing with some splattering, but not much else.  I continued much with this form of glazing while teaching, but added some atomizers to the work especially when working with ^6 in the HS I taught at. I still used the other techiques at PSU when doing grad school work. Then when I started my own studio at home with the purchase of a kiln and a motorized kick wheel I did much more glazing with the atomizer over a base matt white glaze and finished with calligraphic brush work. These pieces were one offs, and worked well with a few base glazes, and underglazes used as inglaze. However I changed direction as the glaze I used for a base proved to be unstable in my firings, and I found the zinc often dulled much of the color. I moved to a glaze with tin as an opacifier, and played with tin/chromium flashing for a while. Somewhere along the way I lost the feel for the previous work, as the glossy glazes moved too much and the colors were not the same. Of late I have been moving towards more texture in the piece allowing the glaze to break the thin and thicken as it breaks over the clay textured surface. I still am not happy with the results, but everything is a work in progress. The atomizer has been replaced by a spray gun, the inglaze replaced by glaze colors over the base glaze that is buttery white with the addition of 1-3% rutile. All of my firing for the last 30 years have been electric oxidation  at ^6.
QothW: What is your favorite technique of glazing and decorating? Does texture of the piece play into your choice of glazing and decorating? What atmosphere and cone do you fire to?
 
best,
Pres

Granular Magnetite (iron) at 2%.  From wet clay calculate 20% as water. 10lbs minus 20% water(2lbs) = 8lbs. Dry x 2% granular Magnetite. Judging from pic- 20 mesh speckles.  Make a 500 gram test batch and fire as a tile with usual glaze to judge speckle population. Add or subtract as per personal preference. Iron will be safer in your case given kiln location: granular manganese can fume. 

Hi Pres -  how interesting!  
I am not a teacher.  I have been throwing 1.5 lbs to 2 lbs for the last 4 years.  However, weekly only for 1 year.  I have done porcelain, red clay, and grey clay and my biggest challenge:  dark granite clay.  I didn't realize that clay has so many properties.  I went to fall classes to our local rec centre and we used the same clay I don't even know the name.  At the rec centre, the interst is for you to have a good time. 
In my case, with Covid and access to a great studio, I am now curious and challenged by all sorts of things.  Things I didn't know existed or need to be considered. For me,  your post then, is very very on point.   

It's a process!
There's ample room for improvements...

@Hulk, I cut my hands up pretty bad in the very early days, when practice throwing. Took a pug  @3# off of the Walker output, slapped it on the table a few times then started centering it. Big mistake, someone had thrown a metal rib into the slop bucket evidently. Went through the pugmill, and came out in pieces. I had several  cuts that made throwing the next few weeks very painful, but I learned a good lesson. . . .wedge well to remove any gifts from prior clay use and abuse by myself or others.
 
Sounds like you have had a good time organizing things to your liking! 
 
best,
Pres

The label shows 25 amps 1P (single phase) so the kiln is 25 X 240v  = 6000 Watts.
Generally by code
Breaker size minimum = 125% of rated load => 1.25 x 25 = 31.25 Amps, so no a 30 amp will not work Max size breaker = 150% of rated load => 1.5 x 25 = 37.5 amps Breaker required for this kiln as rated would be a 35 Amp 2 pole breaker It is strongly suggested to have your electrician pull / run the appropriate wire which ought to be # 10 copper  (90c) or for the less  voltage drop (and if running non metallic cable)  #8 copper (90c) and terminate with an appropriate plug and receptacle or disconnect switch. As long as the replacement elements match the resistance of the original elements then the information above should apply.
Some other thoughts
This is a sitter kiln with a safety timer and it appears two infinite switches to be manually ramped up for a desired schedule. It’s definitely not hard, do you have any experience in this regard?
 The kiln fires to cone 9 which if used for cone 6 firings will give reasonable element life.
Not sure what rusty nails are, so maybe post some clear pics of the wiring, interior of the kiln and the infinite switch knobs and folks will have more observations.
So hopefully that is a start.

Tool organization, well, that's evolving, sure 'nuff ...lifetime struggle.
We've been in our current house just over ten years now. We have pegboard in the car garage and the studio/bikeshop/repairshop for things we want to find easily, also for things we don't want lost. There's a roll around toolbox and many shelves in the car garage, and many many drawers, cabinets, and shelves in the studio. Having places for things helps. Having multiples also helps - there's travelling kit, car garage set, studio set of many basic hand tools. From there, oft used and favorites get a good spots, whilst hardly ever used (but ah'm keepin') go in drawers, top shelf, even storage. Power tools take lots of room - the ones I don't use often are in storage - a few steps and turn of a key away.

Combing through and shuffling the collections, ah, there's the rub! It takes time and effort.
I've three portable toolboxes set to go to our son - I won't use them, all doubles - better now than later.
Just finished a major round o' tool shuffling, late August.
Another couple boxes went to Habitat for Humanity.
Clay tools, I'm using ~one quart size cylinders, one for throwing tools, one for trimming tools. The needle tool, sponges, and metal rib* set aside, I just exchange the container to match the activity. The cylinders set on top of the small set of drawers right by the wheel. There's enough room in the wheel's pan for a one gallon bucket (chamois strip clothespinned on thar) , my array of sponges, and tool cylinder. I really use just a few tools - for throwing, two wood knives, metal ribs*, some sponges - sometimes a wood rib, sometimes the needle tool. For trimming, the needle tool, a small two sided loop, a hack saw blade trimming tool (it's custom!), that metal rib*, a brush, and three chattering tools. Extra/duplicate and not often used tools (e.g. hole drillers) are in a set of small free standing drawers that sit by the wheel. There's also an array of brushes in (yet another) cylinder over by the ware shelves. There might be a box of tools that didn't make the drawers somewhere, which I'd intended to drop off at the local JC ceramic lab. Glaze tools are in a cabinet with the low volume (e.g. cobalt) materials. The cutoff tool hangs in the wedging area, along with the scale, another wood knife for cleaning bats, and a bike spoke for poking feet. By the door is a bucket of clear water, a sponge, and towel; this is for cleaning hands, as throwing water clean up leaves a film o' clay, eh? The bats all stack on top of a small set of freestanding shelves near the wheel.
I can lift out the cylinder o' tools, bucket, the few sponges, the needle and rib, then wipe out the pan. Yah, I leave it like I want to find it - clean.
Maybe I'll get more/different tools, heh, probably not, except when things wear out. This next year I want to play with sprigs, so, time to start making moulds, also past time to make more bats...
*The metal rib used for ribbing the outside of forms, and for burnishing after trimming, a standard kidney shaped cheap-ish model, for the metal wears away to the point that it's dangerous, See? When I'd invested in a more expensive (seven dollars!!!) rib for shaping the inside of bowls, that's when I designated the cheaper kidney for the grunt work. 
 

Hi folks,  no new topics for the QotW in the pool, so I will pose one once again.
I have been renovating the family farmhouse with my sisters and their families. Right now I have a car full of tools that will need to be stored away, but with the rain last night and this morning I am reluctant to get started. However, it got me to thinking about the way I organize tools. I usually have boxes/bags for tools.  Small electrical tools go in a red box with a latch, circular saw is in a bag with blades, wrenches, sockets screw drivers in a trifold box, drills, bits, and impact drivers in a bag and so on.
This got me to thinking about how I store my ceramic tools. I have cups for brushes, my wheel has a silverware wire basket with dividers where everything is arranged from needle tools in a sponge to ribs in  slot, and other tools in slots. This allows me to take all of the tools out and spray them out while still in the container.  . cutting down on dust. I also have magnetic strips I use for trimming tools when trimming mounted on the side of my trim splash pan. I used to hang tools with silhouettes painted where the tool went below the hooks. Some handles had to be drilled for that, but most of the wire end tools or the ribbon end tools would just hang easily. Now I have a cabinet of multiple drawers where the ceramics tools, stamps, and others are stored until use.
QotW: How do you organize/hang/store your ceramic tools in the shop when using them or storing them?
 
best,
Pres  

Specifically for pottery, yes.  I have had people work with me to improve, I have taken a few private lessons, and as soon as my schedule and bank account would allow, I started taking workshops.  Like most others have responded, I study, read, watch, rinse and repeat.  More recently I have taken online classes and rented teaching videos @GEP being a person I have watched in order to learn specific skills.  
I love the classroom format and have taken classes over the years for anything that I really wanted to know more about.  
Roberta

I have formally coached many others, mostly in the context of behavioral health service delivery. I believe coaching must be individualized and conducted as a partnership,  in tandem w/some essential teaching. The person being coached must build an infrastructure from the learning and application of the steps needed to reach their goal. The interim objectives may or may not be defined/disclosed to the one being coached, based on their needs to know/not know.  Someone with ADHD who has no sense of object permanence and never knows where they put anything, is going to need coaching to reorganize their kitchen that will be very different in approach from the approach needed for someone with OCD, who knows where every item is at all times and is highly  discomforted at moving anything to another location.  The goal for a more functional kitchen may be the same, but the process to get there will be different.  Coaching is best when supportive & motivational at its core. It is a tricky balance to demonstrate acceptance of where a person "is at" while also playing drill sergeant to get 'em moving! My own coach was a highly specialized therapist (treated & basically cured my complex post trauma stress injuries) who had subsequently moved from psychology to individual life coaching (works  w/VIP athletes these days). Post-therapy, he life-coached me in my return to ceramics. The practicality of his coaching enabled me to ID and accept certain limitations, while maximizing my strengths. I now sustain a much higher level of functionality in all aspects of day-to-day living. Being able to maintain some creativity (claywork/photography etc.)  in the "survival mix" infuses me w/the will to keep on truckin'.

For me coaching was from the start as a kid. My older brothers where track stars-one was 11 years older the other 5 years older. The oldest went on to be Stanfords best high hurdler (on a scholarship) and went on to be an olympic athlete . The other was also on the record books so by the time I was in Junior high the coaches all knew what I was capable of. I grew up with a pole valult and high jump pit in backyard. I was the Junior highs best jumper. Turns out my older brother pulled his achilles tendon the meet befor the plane left for Toyko Olympics in 64 and dashed him from the team. He then quit his doctors training path and became an art professor later for 25 years in the california UC stystem at UCSB Santa Barbara in print making.  He died of melanoma cancer in 92. My other brother also excelled at art but took his life at 23.That  brother made it almost thru High school before his art interests overran the coaches interests . For me in Junior high seeing both brothers records still on the board the coaches (all track and fild and some gymnastics) had big plans and worked me to death. In late 9th grade I had enough as I wanted to just high jump and they wanted me to run track as well. I have medals from those days still in the long runs 400 and 800 meters and and relays but the high jump records are what I really liked (the western roll at that time). At some point in an endless running around the track one day  in May in 9th grade I had had enough . I told the coach I was done running for him and he should do the 20 laps that day. I turned my interests to art like all my brothers before me. The rest is history except I really cut my own path thru school and beyond. 
For me coaches are all in my past. What I learned form coaches is I was not meant to be in the herd with the rest I excelled on my own paths-What they learned is I was a independent thinker and most coaches where NOT

It’s an interesting question as teachers have styles and coaches as well. The line between fundamentals and my preference to apply a fundamental in a certain way definitely exists. Interestingly a portion of clay are manual dexterous skills to which individual kinesiology ought to have a significant influence.  When I taught, I wanted to make sure my students had fundamental engineering skills, but after that, I would say go out and learn more, apply and develop your skills for when we meet next, I hope to hear you say, look at what I can do now or look at what I found out!  Fortunately that has happened enough to me over 30 plus years.

Is that teaching? Coaching? Maybe just encouraging.folks to be the best they want to be. It works for me, but by no means is “the” style. Elite athletes often need to fine  tune their abilities, maximize their positives and minimize their negatives. Sometimes an outside set of eyes helps understand where to improve as feel and real often differ.
Back to the question, I have had good formal instruction, good coaching, mostly informal actually and of course average instruction and “bad coaching”.  When I was in High School they would allow a pitcher to throw his  arm off his  shoulder……… and  a rotator cuff later, I did. Bad coach? Just not as knowledgeable as today I think. But for the purpose of the question - bad coaching.
For me I like watching what others can do and observe how and why they are successful then try and incorporate into my motion, approach, etc… For me I have always had to figure out for myself what works best for me applying some fundamental and if lucky, discover the reason why it really works for me.
My idea of coaching changed after becoming certified as a trainer for a time. The study of kinesiology enlightened my views on how folks could achieve certain movements effectively for themselves but maybe comparatively differently.
Moe Norman, very famous Canadian golfer premier ball striker may have been quirky for some, but his advice always rings clear whenever I listen to him. Folks wanted to know his secret, but I believe he really felt that everyone should figure out their secrets. They should focus and practice what works for them. Moe was just amazingly focused on him so he would exclaim just practice the right things! Don’t waste your time practicing someone else’s method, etc…. just practice what works for you …… simple! Today’s most efficient way may end up as tomorrow’s outdated way.
Having said all that, I was certainly guilty of saying run as fast as you can to get to the spot where that pop fly is gonna be. Holding your hands up flailing and running backwards probably ain’t gonna do it. Today I would add, if you find a quicker way, show the rest of the team. I must be evolving as a coach.

This'n' got me thinkin' a'righ' - how are coaching and teaching distinguished?
But first, the question, nah, Wheel I and Wheel II were demo then go, with one and one and/or small group when student(s) obviously struggling, also when help requested. Per prior, I was, and still am good with that. As far as other skills, activities, etc., yah, got some coaching in sports, a few classes, music, some trade skills here and there - it's been a while! 
Back t'th' thinkin' part - seems to me there's considerable overlap (gray area) between coaching and teaching.
For starters, distinguishment (ah, it is "a word", ah checked): teaching may involve more subjects/students in prescribed sessions, over a set period, following "the plan," where performance objectives are defined aforehand, and subject progress is tested against them. Coaching may involve more time with subjects - longer sessions, over a longer period, where there Coach may have fewer subjects to work with each day, the objectives are more individualized, and "the plan" may be much less reflective of governing bodies' requirements, testing, etc. A teacher may have 150 (or more) students each day, each class may include thirty or more, for less than an hour at a time. A coach may have a third that many each day, spread over several hours, where some subjects may log years o' time.
However, Special Needs Ed can be very much be tailored to the individuals - Individual Education Plan requirements, etc., where the teaching is rather coachy.
However II, a lot of sport coaching is mass activity, very little individuation at all, where the coaching is rather teachy, one size fits all, where the real "fit" may be for the star(s).
Hmm
The Captain of Oakland Police Department's Juvenile Division said this to me, "There'll never be enough adults interested in kids in this neighborhood." Ah found that to be absolutely true, any 'hood, anywhere. I'll stretch that to there'll never be enough really good teachers and coaches in any neighborhood, anywhere. My observation, about a third to half of coaches should be immediately removed from the gyms, playing fields, pool decks - take a chance on whoever's next. My observation II, oooh, I'll keep to mysel'

This'n' got me thinkin' a'righ' - how are coaching and teaching distinguished?
But first, the question, nah, Wheel I and Wheel II were demo then go, with one and one and/or small group when student(s) obviously struggling, also when help requested. Per prior, I was, and still am good with that. As far as other skills, activities, etc., yah, got some coaching in sports, a few classes, music, some trade skills here and there - it's been a while! 
Back t'th' thinkin' part - seems to me there's considerable overlap (gray area) between coaching and teaching.
For starters, distinguishment (ah, it is "a word", ah checked): teaching may involve more subjects/students in prescribed sessions, over a set period, following "the plan," where performance objectives are defined aforehand, and subject progress is tested against them. Coaching may involve more time with subjects - longer sessions, over a longer period, where there Coach may have fewer subjects to work with each day, the objectives are more individualized, and "the plan" may be much less reflective of governing bodies' requirements, testing, etc. A teacher may have 150 (or more) students each day, each class may include thirty or more, for less than an hour at a time. A coach may have a third that many each day, spread over several hours, where some subjects may log years o' time.
However, Special Needs Ed can be very much be tailored to the individuals - Individual Education Plan requirements, etc., where the teaching is rather coachy.
However II, a lot of sport coaching is mass activity, very little individuation at all, where the coaching is rather teachy, one size fits all, where the real "fit" may be for the star(s).
Hmm
The Captain of Oakland Police Department's Juvenile Division said this to me, "There'll never be enough adults interested in kids in this neighborhood." Ah found that to be absolutely true, any 'hood, anywhere. I'll stretch that to there'll never be enough really good teachers and coaches in any neighborhood, anywhere. My observation, about a third to half of coaches should be immediately removed from the gyms, playing fields, pool decks - take a chance on whoever's next. My observation II, oooh, I'll keep to mysel'

Jerry Marshall, the guy turning out lids offa mound in the You Tube vid.
Bill Van Gilder, because his book, articles, vids and that ancient (1986) cbs interview were (still are) helpful and inspiring - it'd be worth the trip just to thank him;
Hsin-Chuen Lin, also because - his vids so helpful and inspiring and I'd like to just say thank you;
Bunzy Sherman, err, I'm happy to wait a very long time for that ...when I get to meet alla people I miss or never met;
ditto Warren, Ruth, Ziesel, and others.
Someone who is an expert thrower who (somehow, amazing, right?) also clearly recalls the learning process and has the incredible knack of teaching and communicating, oh, and toss in a biting and insightful sense of humor please. ...and I hope the presenter is both small and a woman, just to turn gender bias on its ear, and the big strong thing at the same time. 
 

A couple of other things. When replacing the wheelhead, you'll need to keep the axle/shaft to 25mm, not 3/4" or 1" because of the bearings and the pulley interior diameter dims. 
I took many other pictures while rebuilding both my pedal and the bearing replacement, so if you need something specific, just let me know.
 

New and old bearing mounts - the new ones are identical to each other to simplify fabrication
Slicing off the shoulder bushing at the required height (remember to adjust the belt and the motor-side pulley to compensate for the height of the bushing, which forces the wheel head higher.
Final test fit before sealing and tightening everything up!

The bearing replacement went relatively well, with only a few hiccups. I think when the top bearing originally failed, someone replaced it with a bearing that had the correct ID, but a larger OD and they just crammed into place and used epoxy putty to seal it up. It probably lasted years before it failed again. This is a lot of work, so I'd only recommend doing this if your bearings are completely seized up. (To test, remove the belt and see if the wheelhead free spins. ) Removal and replacement of the bearings requires the old bearing mounts to be deconstructed, so you can't save and reuse them with this method.
I began by unplugging the wheel and turning the wheel on its side and removing the belt and pulley shield. This allows access to the bottom bearing. Loosen the belt by loosening the wing nut near the motor - this provides the tension to the belt. Once the belt is a little loose, just rotate the pulley and walk the belt off. Remove the pulley by loosening the two headless locking bolts. If it doesn't slide off easily, just soak it in "PB B'laster" spray. (I ended up using a lot of this spray, so you might want to wear gloves and safety glasses). Next, turn the wheel upside down and brace it up so that as you pound down on the wheelhead there is some room for the wheelhead to drop. If things are really rusty, soak the axle and bearing in a little Blaster.  Using a piece of hardwood, protect the wheelhead axle as you gently hammer down on the axel. This will allow you to use gear puller to pull the bottom bearing off. Once the bottom bearing has been removed from the axle you can turn the wheel right side up and remove the wheelhead. 
Next, remove the upper bearing from the wheelhead. Mine was completely seized onto the axel and I had to cut it off (gently) with a cutting disk. The wheelhead is a combination of plastic and metal, so be careful when cutting near it. (If you completely blow it, I think Shimpo makes a 25mm wheelhead that you just add whatever length axle you need. This was my plan B that I never had to do) After cutting off the upper bearing, I soaked the axle in a mixture of water and molasses (10:1 ratio) for about 10 days. Vintage motorcycle restorers use this to gently remove rust from metal parts and it worked remarkably well. I just lowered the axle into a bottle filled with this mixture and supported the wheelhead so it wouldn't fall over. 
With the wheel head soaking and out of the way, I was able to remove the old bearing mounts. The direct fit replacement is an NTN 6005LLU/LP03 which I was able to find at  misumiusa.com (originally I had tried a pair of bearing I bought from McMaster, but I didn't like them, so I found the originals, which I'm super happy with) With the new bearings in hand I was able to design a new bearing mount. I made both the top and bottom mount the same, it really doesn't matter even though the originals are different heights. The main important parts are that the four mounting bolts end up in the same place and bearings line up so the wheelhead can slide right in. A friend machined the bearing mounts out of Delrin, but they could have been made by 3D printing or by sending a 3D model to a service bureau for printing. 

Even though the original set up did not have a shoulder bushing, I decided to add one because I wanted to know that the wheelhead would bear directly onto the inner bearing ring. I just ordered the closest size from McMaster and cut it down by clamping my hacksaw to the table with a 6mm offset and just ran the bearing back and forth for 10 minutes to slowly cut through the flange.  (https://www.mcmaster.com/7119N182/_)
After test fitting everything, I cleaned up the table and ran a bead of silicone adhesive where the top mount would seat. Then I bolted everything together loosely, installed the wheelhead, made sure everything could free spin easily and tightened everything down. I remounted the pulley and belt, tightened everything and now the wheel works good as almost new.

This is interesting as shivering has a bit of energy in it usually and folks say it pops off their pots. Your description is as if it flakes off so I wondered is this clay fully fired? Looking at continentals site, this clay likely fires to cone 4. It is listed as 04-4.  Firing it only to cone 04 may leave it very soft and the glaze easily falls off because of the mismatch. I would call continental and ask, does this need to be fired to cone 4 to be reasonably sturdy? Judging from the shrinkage chart, I would expect the red to be worse than the white. Neither are great though.
 
 

Hi Cove!
Looks like shivering*, classic glaze fit issue - opposite of more common crazing, where the glaze cracks.
I'm guessing you have lots of the clay? You might crank out a couple dozen test cylinders, test each available (well mixed!) glaze, then shelve the glazes that aren't working - try them again on different clays, down the road.
No doubt more forum members will weigh in here; meanwhile, are you verifying heat work with witness cones? ...cones on each shelf indicates the "heat work" achieved, thereby nailing down a variable...
*Shivering (digitalfire.com)

I would love to attend a workshop by Anna Silverton, Rupert Spira or Clare Conrad. And most of all, if they were still alive, Lucie Rie,  James Lovera, and Otto and Gertrud Natzler. 

Over the years, I have found, especially when dealing with adults that there is a certain amount of frustration and fear level that short circuits the learning process when working with clay. Comfort zones form a large amount of resistance when dealing with adults fearful of not trying a new thing, or afraid of being inept in front of others. Forgiveness sake folks, face your fears and jump into new experiences to find out what you like or don't like. 
On the other end of this discussion is the formation of bad habit, and how to correct those bad habits. These include simple things that can be corrected temporarily with coaching. Bending your elbows and trying to power center the clay in such a manner, opening up off center because you don't brace the opening hand, getting one of the other hands out of time with the other when pulling, not applying enough pressure in the beginning of the pull to thin the bottom, ripping the clay with too fast a wheel speed, or even milking the top of the pot to gain extra height at the expense of thin walls and a sharp lip. I find that often it takes not one or two times to correct these things, but several times until the student understands innately what works.
It  is especially hard to coach a student that learned poorly in the beginning: A student I had in an adult class was all excited to work on the wheel after watching videos one summer and going to a local center at night to practice. They could throw smaller pieces, and do reasonably with mugs, dishes and other small cylinders. However, they could not get any higher. Seems they watched Eastern potters throwing, thus clockwise motion. Our wheels at the time were not reversible, and I coached them to move to the other side. They would work that way for a while, but always revert to centering pressure on rt side even though I had shown them how much more power they had when the clay turned into the palm of the brace hand. Tough to correct, but after two years they started throwing Western style.
When you talk about modalities of learning, I believe you have to develop a strong foundation of basic fact to build on. Then you can understand things like alternative throwing positions, or use of ribs vs hands, and so many other simple tricks that understanding process makes the trick easier to use.
 
Good discussion here. . . 
All in MHO
best,
Pres

Really good points I think! The video only seeks to point out that those who research cannot correlate what many perceive to be. How did we ever get to accepting this - worldwide?
I never sold memory short though, to me it can be a tool.  Often I would start a class with a segment that made me memorize some ridiculous list of 30 random things in a couple of minutes. Then throughout the semester someone could test me randomly by number or object at any point in any class.
My point was it’s just a tool,  if I could learn it, anyone could. Learn it and use  it as you may, there are simple methods to improve memorizing lists etc…… maybe short term  but  to this day can recite most of those lists, 20 years later. I would then show them a simple peg word method etc……. And mention it can help you learn things more easily. There are several successful memory techniques, Just another tool to use if you choose to …. Use all your tools don’t get locked into one perception.
Anything that expands our understanding is a plus for me so I am interested in the research. Anything that limits approaches as “the” method or “the” approach I respect but am skeptical. I never want folks to perceive they are not capable …… as in I am a bad reader, I can’t visualize, etc..…….. too much I can’t. Most folks can, not all can motivate themselves to do so though. Adding I can’t, often provides a convenience for therefore I won’t try.

I noticed a few things about both the video and the article. The video isn’t testing for concept understanding, analytical thinking or critical thinking: it’s testing for memorization of information. Also, because of the incredibly short test duration, he’s really only testing working memory and not whether or not the information makes it into long-term storage. He’s really not kidding when he says it’s not scientific!
The paper IS indeed somewhat dated, but it is more focused on understanding as an outcome, rather than memorization of facts. Especially when it comes to clay, you can’t just memorize your way into being able to work with it. We need a more understanding and problem solving based approach, which this article is moving towards and advocating for. The ideas in this paper have since  been either heavily expanded upon (using multiple teaching methods like “new math,” skip counting, AND using physical manipulatives instead of just memorizing an algorithmic method and multiplication tables),  or debunked (left brain vs right brain thinking: we all use both halves equally, but how they talk to each other is significant).
Neither video or paper takes into account things like neurodivergencies such as ADHD or auditory processing disorder, or learning disabilities like dyslexia, dyspraxia, discalculia, etc.etc. It’s interesting to note that a lot of learning modalities that have often been reserved for these groups can be of great value to neurotypical people as well.