Pres

If your basement is a finished area with no studs or joists exposed, I would think that a window fan would be the best option, along with a door open to the basement so that you have air moving through the basement out the window. I am assuming that you are following the precautions needed for a kiln, including distance from walls and ceilings, proper wiring, and general safety. I you still have the odor issue you may want to look into a fan with duct for a hood that is over the kiln and ducts out the window.
 
best,
Pres

I would make my own wash and remove with a wet sponge  before firing any commercial wash as it usually poor quality.
Speaking of quailty wash I noticed on the Advancer shelve (kiln shelve.com ) site they use the same formula as I posted years ago
1/2 alumina hydrate
1/4 epk
1/4 calcined EPK or (glowmax)

Firing two glaze fires today still trying to appease the pit monster.I can now work 1/2 days before foot say no more.Spent many 1/2 days glazzing and loading up till todays firing. Spring mini heat wave yesterday (81 was the high and the low was 37) it's a 3 day deal.

Workbench has some recently glazed wares waiting on foot polishing, inspection, and washing; and some just handled raw wares as well.

The test tiles are IMCO's new "Terry" clay.

My hands and my eyes (and maybe my mind too) are all irreplaceable in my work.  Everything else?  I can get by without, or replace, or just remake.  A lot of my tools I've made or reshaped to fit my needs.  Denise!  Your heavier than usual wire cutter for example is likely stupid easy to make a replacement. 
I use dental tools, clay tools, tiny knitting needles for fine hair texture, etc but the one dearest to my heart is my solid brass slide rule - because my father, who was an aeronautical engineer of some renown, gave it to me when I first started sculpting so many years ago (almost 50 years ago now).  I use it like calipers for smaller pieces I need to measure and check proportions on - great for making sure the leg bone lengths match, or checking the length of the head against the length of ... well, anything else.  And so forth.  So sure, I can just run out and buy another slide rule but ... this one is special.  I'd hate to misplace it.

Nope!  It's just an old fashioned slide rule, no frills.  I don't need it to be SUPER accurate down to the ... whatever for the kind of work I do.  I would love a real set of calipers but the kind I like are expensive, not cheap plastic, so I still don't actually own any.  When I need to measure larger proportions I whip out string or a measuring tape.  Real live horses don't mind too much.  Pretty high tech, right?  But it works!  For little stuff this old slide rule works fine.   I really should keep an eye out for some old fashioned ones at the local antique stores.  I might find something cheap that'll work well enough.
In other news I FINALLY got another 100 lbs of Pottery Plaster into the studio!  Whoo!  Who would have guessed that it would be difficult to find pottery plaster and dodge having to pay through the nose for it?  Geesh.  Crazy.

Yes it will
Yes  I do, but it is complex so testing may have helped here. My guess is it would help. Total guess though.
 
Pres used grog, I think I said silica, alumina is great too. Pres had the super excellent idea of applying thin and  evenly with a salt shaker though. All can work, all require care not to spread around the kiln. Grog is probably neatest, then silica, then alumina.

I threw my first  pots yesterday after a 8. week break. I had a tarsal tunnel surgery on right foot and out of cast now and in a boot for a month. I got off crutches  and knee scooter about 4 days ago and am taking baby steps towards walking again. Going to make some small stuff this am as well. Slowly getting back to it. Lots of PT and doing my PT 3 times a day then ICE and infrared light. Compression sleeve 99% on time as well . Wound is about 5 inchs long and coming along nicely. This surgery was a real setback for 8 weeks.
I have a large order to fill this spring and am just starting to get to it. I will be driving my self again within a day-ya hoo
PS tarsel tunnel is just like carpel tunnel on wrist only on the foot. Both by feet have it. I shosse the worst right foot to do this year -if it gets better in 3-6 months I will conside the other one. Right now  that sound really like a bad idea but once I;m healed up and if it works then I will think more about it on other foot.Surgery was a 4 hour trip away one way. Specialized doctor for this type of surgery of course.

I found what looked like a broken pugger tip in a bag of purchased clay.   In my own recycled clay I am always finding elephant ear sponges.    Denice

I am here to support the always interesting, always informative, always fun QotW and it's master Host.  As for surprizes in my clay---never, nada, nothin'.  Just here for support. 

The wheels sell well-I would ask 1/3 off new as a starting point-quality wheels really went up in price so find out what anew one costs to start with
The kiln well its all depends on condition-same deal-harder to sell than a both your other items due to size 
Slab roller is a easy sale as they are hard to find used-very hard really

Although the market for used pottery gear may have softened a bit, looks to still be very strong.
My only suggestions would be a) peruse recent listings (new & used) - same as buyers would do - and price accordingly, and b) keep the wheel, if you've a place for it to wait 

Unless you make it considerably thicker, porcelain is going to warp with a form like that. 

Sponges, chamois, plastic, all sorts of tools over the years in our ceramics lab recycle in college. Those chamois really disguise themselves!
In commercial clay, a supplier, who was gradually going out of business, ran their rusting pug mill to the bitter end. We found chunks of rusty pugger in nearly every bag. No major injuries, but a challenge to throw. I was able to complete an 8” vase while leaving a 1/2” square of pugger in the wall, about halfway up, even while ribbing it out (carefully) as much as possible. We were curious about how it would fire. The fragment melted out and left a trail of mostly iron down the side beneath a tidy hole. ;p
That Franklin Adams clay was really nice and a dream to throw, even so.

Hi folks,  I was helping in the Ceramics for Adults class today at the HS I used to teach in. I had taken my wedding room off as I always do to work during the 3 hr class. I noticed someone else had taken off her engagement/wedding rings the same and set them on the table. I kindly admonished her for being careless and told her about a student of mine who had accused an entire class of stealing her engagement ring she had just gotten last weekend. We went through all sorts of investigations, questioning, and a very distraught student and class over the loss. The ring was never found until several years later I heard a grinding sound in the Walker Pug mill. Taking off the top cover of the auger tube revealed after so search a mangled gold ring setting without a stone. We searched everything, and still did not find the stone. but lots of clay had been pugged out of and old barrel mixed with newer slop. What a surprise .
I also remember when in college finding parts of a metal kidney rib in the clay while wedging it. . . cut me up!
QotW: What surprise have you found in your clay, either fresh or recycled?
 
best, 
Pres

Many years ago, one of the students in the college class lost the bottom nut from the extruder die holder while cleaning it in the cleanup bucket in the sink. Irritating, but not the end of the world to have to go to the hardware store for a replacement nut. We periodically scoop the sludge from the cleanup bucket into the main recycle barrel, and when that barrel is full, I pug the recycle in to a proprietary mix that is so proprietary that even I don't know what I put in the pugged clay logs. Despite the unknown mix, it's usually nice enough to work with for class demos and experimental practice work. About a year and a half later, I was making a batch of Empty Bowls, and felt a lump in the wall of the cylinder. Thinking it to be an air bubble, I poked it with my needle tool, but it was a hard chunk. So I dug it out, and there was the long lost nut.

New clay =Rocks/stones/ sticks and cat poop/small metal bits
My recycle -small stones and grass

I’ve seen this form a bunch, and yeah, it’s tricky to get right. One solution for the warping I saw another potter online do was to do all the minimal trimming and cleanup as you describe, but they then added a slip trailed circle of clay as a foot rim. It was just enough to keep the full surface of the plate’s bottom from being in direct contact with the kiln shelf so you don’t get the warping, but still keeps the same aesthetic qualities of this style.
Results may vary with different clay bodies, but it’s something that’s worth a shot.

I'm seeing a lot of plates made like this these days, it's a good way to make a plate with this type of design. I've got one bisque fired as a test but haven't got it glazed yet, it was really fast to make and I also like that it doesn't require any trimming. That nearly vertical edge is going to help prevent sagging/warping during the glaze fire compared to a flatter more horizontal rim.
I would suggest putting one of yours in a glaze firing with no glaze on it, if it doesn't warp then it would suggest the glaze fit could be the problem.
Welcome to the Forum.

Not everyone wants to or is able to throw dinner plates on the wheel. I slab build my plates, and it is much faster than throwing and I don't have problems with humping in the middle.
@chris123 I think the issue is either with glaze tension as mentioned above, or it could be from uneven heating/cooling between the edges and the center or the top and bottom.
1. Does it happen with all of your glazes or just one?
2. What size kiln do you have, and what firing schedule are you using?

Tried this years ago, and found it was indeed easier to just throw them. I tried mine throwing the flattened slab on a plaster form with a flat bottom and the sides shaped for a plate. while shaping it I threw the foot ring. Alas 2-3 out of 10 would warp. I decided it was because of the shaping of the form while on the wheel would cause particles to become circular in motion as opposed to the center being non aligned from the rolling out. Just my thinking at the time, but now I throw much faster plates using large slightly curved ribs.
best,
Pres

For me it would be faster to just throw the plates on the wheel from the start rather than using the slab roller.   However, I do find that a foot ring adds stability to plates during firing.  Have you considered using a slump mold instead of throwing the slabs?

interested in the idea of pounding out slabs before you roll them...i usually just throw them down to widen things out a bit, turning the slab every time, but pounding sounds quite theraputic.
i do love my long rolling pin.

When pulling mugs or cups or any cylindrical piece off of the hump make a pancake larger than the defined bottom of the piece then draw up the sides to form the walls of the pot. This keeps the alignment of clay particles even as opposed to pulling the walls up as in a normal piece thrown off of the wheel head or bat. The difference is that you are unable to compress the floor of the pot sufficiently off the hump leading to unaligned particles where the wall meets the floor,
 
best,
Pres

I've taken to using the web between the pointer finger and the next finger to compress lips. No extra reaching!
 
best,
Pres