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Mark C.

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Everything posted by Mark C.

  1. I tend to think of your work as sculptural not ceramic. But thats my art school background tugging at my brain. I fired some work for years of a sculptor who worked in clay but all the finishes where not ceramic. I high fired them 1st .I'll add a photo in a day as I have one of the works still as this was long ago. I realize that clay is the base but to many ceramic refers to other finished mediums where as sculpture is a broad definition and has lots of freedoms of meaning. Really you are making ceramic sculpture and that can mean many things. I went to art school with a ceramic sculpt
  2. I would consult some one who knows a bit more on wiring. In the above post most homes are 100 amp The older ones back in the day where 60 amp (two 30 amp fuses) I bought one home once like that and have wired a few like that as well with new service. I live in your state and 8o amps in very unusual. Can you post a photo of said electrical box please and this will be easy for us to clear up your options. Thanks Mark
  3. electric teakettle for hot water in studio-fast and hot and cheap-mine was free from a friend
  4. Also try less water while throwing and get all the water off bottoms when form is done on wheel. Compressing bottom more will help as well.
  5. Any pair of leather gloves or garden leather gloves work to close lid. Nothing special
  6. That flare on the pot in your above photo makes drinking easier than a straight up edge
  7. They are you your learning mistakes and should not be sold those pots are problem children for the future-keep them or distroy them but do not sell them
  8. In your photo you can see that the foam is compressed more on the right side as that side has trim marks way down lower than other side on left where at top you have an issue -ditch the foam and trim on a wheel head or bat with wet clay balls until you learn the foam pad deal. Notice the uneven trim marks on bowl sides down where you stopped trimming-that line should be straight
  9. Was that fingers or wrist or whole hand? ouch
  10. Wow only 6 weeks I'm out far longer right now My cast came off after 8 weeks a few days ago. Hope you heal fast and that the break was not severe I'm in rehab teaching my thumb how to work again
  11. MC porcelain was never on website -call them about it. I do not recall but I think it was a standard mix for them-they can make it dry bagged for you-you will need to contact them on this.Its a slight chance it was custom blend but I do not think so. my collage porc slip cone 9/10 is EPK 25 om 4 25 feldspar (back then we used Del Monte feldspar) custar-25 silica 25 you will also need to add Darvon 7 Back then it was soda ash and soduim silicate -both not good on the molds very simple recipe
  12. Glazing the outside will make the cup stronger as well.
  13. One small item the video missed is how how much the top is out.You only show the bottom of wheel head . I see the bottom of the wheelhead is out but that can be a poor casting issue. Is the top going up and down as much as the bottom .If thats a yes then that head/shaft is bent.
  14. How much up and down is the whole question
  15. I have some cone 10 porcelain slip formulas as well-I recall they are not as exotic as yours (less ingredients less money) are but they worked fine in college . I'll pots them in a day as I'm out of time now
  16. Since you are in Cal. Have yo tried MC porcelain cone 10 casting slip from Laguna Clay co. I have used tons of it over the decades with zero issues. I did have to add 15% epk but only to stiffen it as I cut out 1/3 of the form away. That said its good stuff-I bought it in dry form.I fired it to soft cone 11 as well.
  17. Couple things that cave is good for the lip The cause may be because its the cut edge of your mold and you work on it to smooth with sponge and water?
  18. I answered this one via email. I have a potter friend thathad the older Super heavy duty gearbox Brent CXC from before plastic deck days 1970-71 He recommends multi viscosity gear/tranny oil 85-140 , also straight 85 or 90 will work fine as well-both are gear box oils. The plug is either square or allen head to remove on gearbox side. Drain old oil out. If its dripping its most likely someone used car motor oild which is to thin and will leak. Fill to plug level (when it overflows its full) A pump will aid in this but you can turn it on its side fill and fill then put down and when its s
  19. soft bricks are the same as the bricks in any electrick kiln-they are for sale at ceramic supply houses-They are called K23 brick-you cut them with a hand saw-or a pruning or hack saw to the size or shape you need.One brick will go a long ways.The sea shells is also a great idea-just buy some on the internet
  20. When I made long soup tureen spoons in porcelain at cone 10 the handles had a curve (so they did not warp flat) and the two touch points where on soft brick peices. They absorb a bit of glaze and you can sand/grind the small points smooth. I was not the only potter doing this. Then I decided wooden spoons where a better fit for my soup toureens soft brick is easily removed and sucks up the small amount of glaze-I also sponged off the glaze a bit at the touch spots.
  21. (What baffles me the most is the work I have a strong dislike for that other people love) I learned that lesson in the 70s The thing is the ugliest pot you thiink you ever made will be someones pride and joy. Their is NO ACCOUNTING FOR TASTE This takes a potter a long while to wrap around. This little storu sums it up well You have a shelve at an art show with your best work-the shelve is a bit thin only a few pots but they are the great ones-sales are very slow. You mix in some ones that are still functional in every way but you hate them. soon
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