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Mark C.

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Everything posted by Mark C.

  1. Ok in another thread bone ash was brought up -that was all about Oribe glaze Todays update after mixing glazes this am for me is all about bone ash So on that synthetic bone ash I just finished a full 50# bag of it today (this bag was a gif to me )as I use it only in my red/black (high Iron) saturate glaze also I use synthetic red iron only in this glaze. I have another 50# bag ready to go. The cost of this has really gone up lately. I used up 50#s in less than a decade in only one glaze -my Red-Black cone 10 glaze I still use my natural bone ash in any other glazes like Or
  2. My electric (bisque only) is a full on bottom and up on some smaller broken kiln shelve pieces at the stacking points .That space is 1/2 inch off floor. Its about 10 cubic feet. I only use 1/2 shelves from there up-I do have a full shelve if needed I just do do not use it ever. its a manuel kiln with a fire rite auto turn up switch that ramps it up automatically .Timer and cone sitter for shut down The kiln is outside and has no vent system-Its not fired more than 6-8 times a year -I tumble stack the top of it usually-really stuff it full. Most bisques are in my 35 cubic
  3. (those who are happy with the Gleko unit are low water users.) I think this is very true. Go with a better pump out system taking the water into an outside setting tub then its a non issue. A cheap plastic laundry sink could work great. PS I am on a septic system
  4. Those coyotes are Wiley welcome to the forum
  5. Do not let clay get into your septic system. Make a separate system for clay hand washing-do a search on main page as this has been covered many times. You will need a pump or carry out the water since you are below ground level
  6. That a VERY fair price Pres. I sold a 231 this year for more $ in worse condition (350$) Folks should jump on it.
  7. As a show board member we just voted to have our 48th annual North Country Fair on the 3rd week in September. Now we all know its up to the state,county and city to approve this down the line but we are moving ahead with the assumption that it will happen-we mailed and emailed out the apps and will make the final go or no go in late August. We are holding the funds until then so it will be easy to cancel the event if needed. I think shows in the fall will move forward as ours is. Summer shows are more iffy for sure.My guess some will happen and others will not and some will morph into sm
  8. Spring orders are rolling in (wholesale) and local sales are at a all time high min some venues. I had the best 1st quarter at one market almost tied the 4th quarter at same market. This summer looks to be a strong one with local tourists . Last year we had more tourists than normal; and this year we all think there will be more with current situtaion with shots in arms happening now. By fall shows may be back as well. My slow down schedule has taken a beating-I need a new plan
  9. I hate space cadets no matter what or where they are. I would not give up that shop was just not the right one. Finding the right shop is hard but well worth the outcome in the long run
  10. Frozen pots if wet enough will die. Usually if fired they will crack as well. Dry the pots well then freezing will not hurt them
  11. I have had my bag of bone ash forever (maybe 35 years) and I'm sure its not synthetic . I do not use Epson salts in it as it stays floating just fine-the glaze is always a bit thick anyway. Never added iron to it. It can turn red on its own in spots
  12. I use a 30 inch Baily electric slab roller. There is no difference Manuel or electric -except faster and easier other than that same slab with each type.
  13. For small shipments I use my PayPal usps account (big discount) for boxes that hold 3 pots or more its cheaper to use my UPS account at 30% off thru ICan membership(back then it was a different name)-potters council). I got the discount when I joined up 9 years ago and its good until cancelled with UPS after you sign up. Pirate ship is for USPS service it looks like only
  14. I use a barium glaze on the outside (not the lip that you drink out of) of a few wares. I use a white liner on inside and lip in thesse situations .All cone 10 reduction fired .
  15. I have written several threads on packing as many other have as well-use the search on main page. I use UPS as I have a 30% discount with them for heavy packeages they are best rate or fed ex ground (they seem to be tougher on handling I think) I wrap each pot (mug in a piece of cardboard . I use clay boxes for thios as I have a ton of them.Cut them a bit oversize of height of mugs and roll the mug up in cardboard an tape. This makes an inner pad and then I stuff the mugs in a box very tight so thay cannot move (I did a photo thread on this if can find it) I would fill boxes and
  16. My suggestion is to make a new mold which just brings the sides straight up on same slow outward level-put a seal grove in mold where lip terminates (a cut line for cutting later) and this new say 1 inch height will be where extra clay is held as mold lever drop. (just like Peters extra cottle ring does above) This is not like your drawing at all where clay goes sideways.The mold continues on same plane as your glass straight up just an inch or two more. This is extra (called a spew is standard practice in mold making ) mold need extra room at top to hold extra slip so when lev
  17. My guess is yes its sublimated and most likely not fired on or fired below decal temps .
  18. somebodys fish from 1957 is my guess welcome to the forum
  19. glaze the insides one day outsides the next as Neil said.
  20. Yes those in your ling are the ones to use. Cheap and tough for dampers those highn alumina will handle the heat well another cheaper option but also a little less quality is these https://www.axner.com/cordierite-shelf-12x24x1rect.aspx since dampers take a lot of abuse I would spend the extra 10$ for high alumina ones
  21. Less gas more air-make sure your air flaps are all the way open and do not choke flue down as much as you used to. Get the smaller offices installed in each burner -have some smaller backups ready to go as well.
  22. You will have to tweek a few things-I would start with the orfice size. Ward of Ward burners says (The rule of thumb is to decrease your orifice by one number (say a 38 to a 39) for every 2000 ft. increase over 5,000 ft_ So since your just over 5,000 feet this should be easy Here is the rest of the article I just googled firing at altitude and got lots of hits-less gas in smalerl orffices is the easy start-they just screw in and are cheap-call Olymic or drill out some blanks with letter drill set. http://www.wardburner.com/altitudefiring.html
  23. L&L I feel are the way go with a new kiln. I have had 3 skutts. Including that 1027 you spoke about.
  24. Use mulite shelves for wood and salt no issues-they are the go to damper shelve for all applications .I use the 1 inch thick ones for suoer long lasting proformace. All other materials will warp more. Silicon carbide is way worse with uneven heating. Mullite is low cost easy to cut and will take red heat on one end and the other cool to touch.I have used them for 48 years and more firings that you can imagine. In my cermic life making kilns (over 12) the damper is a key element . Back in the 70s we used silcon carbide as that is what we had for shelves . I soon learned that warped damper
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