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Mark C.

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Everything posted by Mark C.

  1. Honey Luster was a class glaze from JC school for us. 50 years later I do not use it but for at least 30 -40 years we had no trouble with it I do not use it on porcelain. Most likely gave my bucket away long ago. I use another liner on stoneware in salt kiln fires I have seen issues around it but they where all clay issues with stoneware. Back then If the clay shrank to much you would just use another body-cone 10 stoneware bodies are a dime a dozen so making changes is easy This was a liner glaze as well mostly for us I still use small amounts of grestly Bor
  2. Min just got in from 12 hour doctor trip from hand surgeon in SF-long day and i'm spaced i forgot to add the name honey luster i have that glaze from 1971 I used colemanite in the 70's and gerstly borate in the 80s or whenever the other ran out-bought ton of gerstly borate when laguna said that was the end before they bought the mine and have an unlimited supply like now-i'm down to 20-30 bags now-i handeded them out as party favors to my potter friends for years-trouble is i do not use much over a year. worked well ether way whatever i used
  3. honey luster-1971 I used this as my go to liner and lip dip glaze when I made my living with cone 10 reduction stoneware-never had an issue with it I know potter who made his living for 40 years with this recipe -no issues on stoneware reduction at cone 10-he also used it as a liner and top dip glaze other cones I have no idea as you will need to adjust it to flux at lower temps. Kingman or any potash spar Modern sub would be Custar-1285 Kentucky ball clay (om4) 225 Colemanite /grestly borate 361 Dolomite 230 T
  4. soldner is still in business making things-get the bearings from a bearing shop-axner is not the right place.They never made soldner stuff.
  5. My cure is like today-unloaded 47 cubic feet of glaze wares in two kilns-packed much of it into 6 different deliveries and now after lunch and doing all the paperwork I will drop them off over a 25 mile area at 6 drop offs. Those pots I saw for mere moments-checking for flaws in glaze etc then into boxes with my assistant . So these pots will not grow on me as now thats someone else's issue now . I do know this one as it's that way with some of my one of a kind salt wares. Just not my production line of porcelain Ocassioanlly a real gem will pop out in that line and it s
  6. i'll post a cone 10 honey luster recipe later that may be much simpler-i need to unload a few kilns 1st
  7. Well yes they do have support kits here Shimpo is rebranded now and is called Nidec Nidec is huge company and they actually have made shimpo wheels in Japan for ages if I recall right (I forget moe than I know)-The name you know shimpo is a import name for our market They decided afew yaers back to just use one name interrnationally now Nidec All they have on them can be found here below in this link https://www1.ceramics.nidec-shimpo.com Maybe a moderator can pin this link under the Brent how to fix post as this is the best how to fix for Shimpo/Nidec.
  8. (Goes both ways, I get it from men and women. It's uncomfortable for me) yes it does I get creeped out by either sex when they bring it up.
  9. I think you missed my context-its not about the sauna its about the material-terracota is fragile and used in areas that fit that use best -planters for one for example. Sure it porous but it super fragile and unfit for that situtaion with any chance of longevity.The wooden bucket has amuch longer life span.-if water is kept in the bucket iot can gor for many years as it swells and stays swollen like a wooden water tank. If you want strength go with high fire porcelain.Tougher than terra-cotta The swedes have been at this a long time-sauna -wood-ceramics-still they use wood and
  10. John I have nothing against that movie (I watched that scene recently and only that scene as the move does not interest me)-a few points she did not throw that pot on the wheel-its all a set up and any potter can see that so for me thats a falsehood and thats the premise take away for me. After being a potter for (now nearly 50 years now ) when that film came out that whole scene was told to me so many times I just never wanted to hear about it again. I never liked the entire film yet along the fake scene .Now it been so long ago I only hear about every few years. I have done the
  11. The issue that bothers me the most is ceramics breaks.The wood makes the most sense-the whole sauna is wood. Buying a new bucket now and then is part of the deal. terra-cotta is easily broken or cracked-thats the downside. You can try some sort of work around but you cannot work around that fact i
  12. I'm a production potter I started out as a potter like you.Playing with clay I suggest throwing pots-as many as you can-the more the better-do not keep them-recycle them 10 cylinders is a 1/2 drop in the bucket It took me years to get to a throwing level where I could make the same forms repeatedly-I do not want to say how long so you do nt get depressed. it does not have to be cylinders always but those are great for most forms-that teaches you the pulling and wall thickness I recall in collage one of my teachers said if you want to devolpe a good foot on a bowl
  13. In California around the 3rd to 5th grade elementary school we studied the missions that dot California from Mexico to just north of the Golden gate a piece. Those missionary's spread them out to a days walk between missions. They (white men ) settled the territory 1st in a big way. Working or torturing (believe what you may) the Indians who had always lived here. From that history we made small pinch pots like the Indians did as well as cardboard missions. That pot I still have a white body low fire pieve with cobalt on it. This did not get me thinking ah ceramics thats for me.
  14. Welcome to the forum . The handle added later is much easy to work well. Meaning the molds comes apart well and the handle is all in one mold often the handle is not easy to reamove or fill properly. When it comes to molds relaese (taking apart easy when full of clay is key) The handle added later is acually way easier. One you see the handles with voids in the handle and messed up handles you will see why mosty folks choose to add them later. Try one each way and learn this for yourself-I may have it all wrong and really only one way to learn and thats doing. Remember any und
  15. Yes the above post shopws how to do this. You will notice at the top of the equipment page there is pinned page on Brent wheel repairs where all Brent repair videos live as well. This adjustment is easy-good luck- Thanks akalspots for posting
  16. My workbench (all of them looked like this yesterday-today the kilns are glaze firing). Today benches are empty One and half handed glazing takes time My new temporay cast can take a xxxl rubber glove over it now. Going to rain some it feels like.
  17. No in a air sealed container it should be the same (thats after a day or two of mixed up dry ingredients to saturate completly)
  18. Usually thats a foot pedal adjustment what brand of wheel is it? welcome to the forum
  19. Most cords are long enough but any cord can be replaced with a longer one. Its non issue. Just keep the wire size the same.
  20. Clay and ovens in homes are not compatable .You need to fire it in a kiln.
  21. You can also use a han d bottle spary mister to wet wares so they absorb less. I think its best to make the glaze the right thickness and leave the wares dry to glaze.
  22. Thick glaze application will make this worse. The glazes look thick as others have said-try less glaze-with that much color it may not look any different color wise but not pit.
  23. EPK is a cheap way to get alumina into your body and that will strenghten it and the clay will not affect . I used 15% in my cast body long ago which the form had a huge hole in side and it slumped. Thast why the 15%. It fixed the issue and was a easy fix. Your mug is not that warped so 5-10% may be enough .
  24. Add 5% EPK (dry mix) to a test before wet mixing and since you are testing do a 10% EPK. This will stiffen the body just a bit. Maybe enough -cast a mug with handle on each test and see if the 5% or 10% works. I assume this is cone 6 as you did not say-just a guess This will stiffen the clay body just a bit and is an easy cheap fix. I have done this with cone 10 porcelain laguna slip dry body myself years ago with great results.
  25. The glazes affected look to be high saturation colors. What is your clay body? porcelain or stoneware?
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