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Mark C.

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Everything posted by Mark C.

  1. Filling huge pottery orders before fishing season starts
  2. Ok something is going on this days in a big way Lumber prices up 300% gasoline up a bunch as well as all things grocery I raised my prices last fall as well That said the orders are rolling in like I have never seen before and thats saying something. Looks like the public is buying up whatever ceramics they can get. Get your item out there anyway you can . I think this is a coast to coast deal. Summer is on and it looks to be a strong sales one for sure.
  3. I like muds solution but if you are going to make one use only#1 pottery plaster plaster of paris is not good for ceramics period as far as I am concerned
  4. Fan is best as Denice says fan and sun is better.
  5. You can mix cobalt with water (no flux) and paint it on and put a clear glaze over .Many oxides are the same as long as a clear is over the top. They do not need fluxes.
  6. The containers says to not used in items which come into contact with food as they contain lead and cadmium. so they are not ok for food contact
  7. Working on huge simi annual gallery wholesale order now and it up over last years order same period. Local shops are selling more volume still .I'm a bit worried aboiut getting enough wares for a show on top of local sales . Never been like this with demand way up. Only one shop is down this year and they are still closed 3 days a week and only open 11-4 the other 4 days.
  8. ( Any advice on how to become more educated in those areas that isn't insanely boring?) In ceramics many things are not just throwing and making-the technical issues will bite you in the butt but for some they are not as fun as the making.If you ignore them then you will not be bored becuse you be to involved in grinding kiln sheves from runny glazes or breaking your pots because they weep water and are not suitable for use .Ceramics is pretty technical in some areas-You will need to know some boring items to master itothewre wise it will be a disaster. Many here will help you with
  9. Your mix was off but its easy now with above post-7-10 by weight-Neil is on it.Alsocold water sets slower warm water faster-not sure water water temp you are using? I like cold water-powere mix for a few minutes drop bucket on floor to get air bubbles to top and pour .
  10. I use the sun to dry 99% of all thrown pottery when I can. Mugs go out in sun and come off the plaster bats as soon as they are raedy and taken inside to handle for example. Bowls dry outside until they can be trimmed-usually it takes place in same day-work in am trim in pm I spin the pots to the other side if the sun is hot to make sure that dry evenly . The sun is a potters friend.
  11. I dry all work outside in the 6 months of spring/summer/fall under a roof as well as in the sun.
  12. I make ceramic fish some have a curve to them others are flat-since your plaques sound flat they are like my flat fish. In the curfed fish i add a piece of wet clay when the fish clay is also wet and poke a small hole in it. Later after the cone 10 fire I string stainless wire so its good outside and inside. On the flat fish I pinch a small bunch of clay that is flat on one side and prudes slightly and put a small hole thru it. I use JB weld epoxy to glue these to the fish backs and later thread the holes with stainless wire. The epoxy grips clay way better than wire (or D rings) th
  13. I would first Call Amaco/Brent technical ask them-the controller and motor are wired for 220 and you wnat to know how to convert it to 110v Other thoughts are most homes have 220 you could wire an outlet just for this wheel you could buy an quality step up transformer 110-220v The best option is call Brent and ask how to make it run on 110V
  14. Not salt pots for sure Just add some colbalt carb to a little water mix it up in air tight container. Use a brush to apply This is cone 10 porcelain with a clear glaze over on these baby bowls I made for family members and friends (I do not do this for the public ) Cobalt is hard to remove so be carefull applying .Use a small brush witha good tip. I turn the bowls on a wheel at slow speed to band them .
  15. I use a glaze eraser to rub finished bottoms of finished pots(sold thru kilnshelve.com ) . As well as a rubbing stone (white fine grit 2x3 stone) sold thru most ceramic outlets
  16. wet sponge the pots no sanding-no dust
  17. You have to do the absorbsion test to anything about the end results. Underfired leaking clay is good for nobody no matter what the cost.
  18. You either do the absorption test to see what your clay is doing (on the test bars)-but knowing that you are shortening the element life. I as Neil said just drive the 3 hours and get the right clay Using cone 10 clay at cone 8 is not a good idea . The absorbtion test will tell the whole story-except the shortened life of elements One note in ceramics a 10,000 things can go wrong (and you will find some do no matter what)and you are starting out with a few of them right off the bat. This can be issues with glaze and body issues righ tout of the gate. Take the drive and start r
  19. ITC also made an element coating in fact I think regular ITC is ok on elements-but I would not bet on it as my memory is a bit fuzzy on that.They did make a special element coating for sure at ITC.Back in the day I bought amny many gallons of that stuff. The whole deal went sideways for me when Fritz sold it after his wife passed away. The price tripled and the product variety went away
  20. For me electric kiln firing was a stepping stone in my progression. I leaned to use them and bought one in collage (used) and have always had one around working in some form. Out of school I used to bisque in mine now and again and would do luster and decal fires in one. I made my own beer bottle labels for a spell and fired them on in my electric as a 20 something . When I was starting I wanted to leartn about all kilns and electrics wherte in the mix. Now in my area electricity is very high price and tahst be a constant here a swell for my life. But the heart of ceramics in the long ru
  21. It will add a bit of protection to electric kiln soft bricks. The one I sprayed I sold before much firing so its a toss up. I think 3 protection tubes are a better investment. If you do use it on soft bricks a few things to do first spray the soft brick with a mist of water first and only apply a very very thin coat so it does not get heavy and spall off the brick. This is best practice . If you fire constantly it may be worth it. It does add bit of strength to soft brick surface-keep it thin and wet the bricks 1st.
  22. Tell me more about what you plan on coating? Hard Brick? soft Brick? How hot are you firing to? I have coated electric kilns-salt kilns ,reduction cone 10 kilns soft brick ,hard brick.kiln shelves. advancers,dry pressed high alumina shelves ,mullite shelves. I need a bit more info. ITC has gone to the moon price wise . I can address the pros and cons but need to know ,more on what your are thinking of coating and how hot you fire
  23. We hot wax in a large electric pan (I posted a thread on this old brand found on ebay once here that is teflon coated and super wide) I think you are to hot. It should never smoke . I use paraffin -buy it by the case and as oldlady said have used thrift shop candle wax as well. I use so much the case thing works well. I always have a spare case at ready-like i said we go thru the stuff. Any pot with a trimmed foot I use the other liquid wax I have written about here a lot. I can sponge the feet very fast with that turning in my hands in a few quick motions. That wax is a little slower dryin
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