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Mark C.

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Everything posted by Mark C.

  1. check your personal messages for my reply

  2. Is your plan to put a clear glaze over the drawings and fire them? more details on the whole plan-end results etc
  3. I can help with 70's brent product brochures -never tossed them as well as all old Westwwod clay catalogs as well as axner catalogs when they where fabulous before selling out. But atlas to mason stains-how about old mason jars? blue glass back in the day -yes
  4. This is one of the all or nothing deals I feel-I would offer 3,000 for the whole pile. Negotiate from that point-they may ask 3,500-you counter 3,250 start low and go up-they want it gone you can do that if its the right price. The main thing is what do you want/need out of this-the slab roller and clay? not the kiln or extruder? Buy the items you want -the slab roller and extruder is a fair price as it is -the clay only works if you want that clay. same with kiln if you want that kiln toss it into the mix and ask for a bundle all price Extruders are nice to have and v
  5. Tables where full off 17 boxes of pots (13 banana boxes) , a large wholesale order just dropped off 5 hours south In Santa Rosa yesterday, now I have some space again
  6. 1.5 look fine to me as the originals are to long
  7. I bought one of these books and it was in excellent condition 5 stars
  8. Yes on the stainless and the larger washers as well. I like some high heat lube as well if you have any just a super small amount of say never seize or electrical anti oxidation paste whatever to keep the nuts at high heat from galling again and breaking bolt. Just at the threads hit where it the nuts
  9. If the head is spining flat-is the pully underneath bent? do the belts have flat spots on them from storage for 15 years? vibration usually can be seen-turn wheel on side and start it up and look around.
  10. (Have you ever varnished your works and fired?) Varnish will burn off in fire even a decal fire but should do no harm
  11. (With the direct drive electronically controlled motor of the Shimpo Whisper, when you take your foot off the pedal to stop, it stops so fast that the differential momentum between the top and bottom plates of the Grip reverses, the top plate keeps spinning slightly after the wheelhead stops, and the pads are moved slightly outward on their spiral tracks. ) So Dick this is only an issue when stopping or starting it sounds like ? As the poster said he has to stop when trimming to tighten it up? That means it lossening up up while rotating I think? Something else sounds to be at play here
  12. I have 3 giffens and never do they lossen. I have used one for 3-4 deacdes now. I think this must be all operator issues. If the grip is counter clockwise then the wheel must be counter clockwise. When the grip gets dirty they get very hard to move either direction. I take mine apart now and then and clean it and spray a small amout of silicone spray -then it slides to easy for a day or two. You can also drag your pant leg on it to keep it tight (never had to do this) I suggest reading the setup instructions again as this sounds like its not setup right. The slick washers go on the bottom unde
  13. There has been much written on this topic-go to the main all forums page and search decal or decal papers or printers or whatever z
  14. If the glaze is applied to thick thgis will not help that but as Callie noted above keeping bubbles from the surface is best-next best is smoothing them out-you are aiming for a smooth application in the long run
  15. I own the same kiln only it a 1227 about 10 cubic feet whereas yours is 6.3 cubic feet. I wired mine up to a fire right controller which is before computer kilns came along . In my case you set the 3 switches to high and the fire right controller has a dial which is 1-10-that is when the kiln is full on. So this morning I set it to 3 as I;'m doing a bisque today-in 3 hours that kiln will be full on.(these pots are BONE dry) The difinite purpose contactor (75 amp) clicks on and offgiving power to all elements slowly at first until three hours then it stays on. It a bit noisy at first then
  16. use your fingers and rub out the bubbles when glaze is dry its hard to tell thickness from a photo-you can use a needle tool to guage how thick it is
  17. I'm getting even more happy about my old manuel kiln outside with no vent for bisque only, after hearing your video. That noise for 8 hours would cut into my music brain. Any way to move the blowere outside?
  18. I always drop the pug on the 4 long sides to even it out mositure wise. This trick works very well. Hard clay softens on the drop-at least porcelain does. As my plaster table is 5-6 inches thick it not an issue to drop it on the wedging table. I cut the pugs on that table to size as well with a cut off wire with one end handle free works great
  19. Its made in the UK so many here do not have access to them
  20. My modified Scott Creek has a fixed pivot point and a Brent cap so its the best of both worlds. I had to weld the pins on the barrel for the cap change and make a new handle as well. Twist on cap that takes about 1 inch of twist to get on and off so its fast. I also have a straight unmodified Brent (we use a lot of extruded handles here every week). In a community studio situation I can see the sliding yoke be an issue just like in retail with the general public where just about everything is an issue. But in a private studio we never pinch out fingers or get bonked so that why I recommend t
  21. I had 3 bones taken out of my wright wrist in 2012-I have not wedged any clay from a bag of new clay since then to speak of. I bought a peter pugger (used shortly after surgery) and do wedge that output either. I can wedge but choose to do so very rarely. I work with high fire porcealin and have not seen any issues without wedging. At one time I weged the heck out of clay. These days why bother the clay really does not need it out of the bag or pugger. If the clay is homogenous and air free its ready to throw in my world. I feel the montra of must wedge all clay is a false
  22. Since you cut the plug off just rewire that new plug on the end of cord or have someone who knows how to do it.
  23. Crash cooling is hard on the kiln furniture. I have used a fan or two long ago to cool a kiln down-that said its best practice not to do any fast cooling.Best on the kiln,the furniture and the wares and on you. Yes you can do it but why? I once took the door down after turning off a cone 10 kiln-most of the wares shivered. You learn the limits which is good but there really needs to be a reason after learning them to push them again.
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