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Trying out beer mug shapes and finishes.

Tile I made using a plaster slab, underglazes and porcelain casting slip, learned technique in Andrew Wandless' book 'Image Transfer on Clay' and also Joanne Veevers on CAD. This is still in greenware stage, not entirely sure how all of those colors will look as bisque and then glazed

Bowl for my throwing water, complete with grooved flat area for holding tools and sharp rim for wiping slip off hands.
Wood-fired Cone10 Reduction, Tenmoku glaze.

The lava glaze would make for a difficult cup to drink from and clean properly, so I have opted them to be planters. The b-mix makes the glazes really pop, and I love the "volcano" look that my husband suggested. What can I say? The boy loves his geology (which is probably why he supports my clay addiction so much...)

11cm Stoneware Single Fired Cone 9

It worked! The black even has some shadows- like a puppet show- have to come up with some different sorts of patterns to try next.

I have my share of commercially produced stamps (particularly logos and finely detailed items), but I still enjoy sitting in an easy chair with my feet-up and carving clay stamps to be used on various projects. It is an exercise of patience for me and a learning experience to be aware of when the clay tells me that its OK to carve/cut/trim. I've wondered before if an exhibit of clay artist's bisque stamps might be a fun thing to organize.

Waterfall Brown glaze. Dipped 1-2 sec. Viscosity @ 11.58 on pie plate and mug.

I like the shape but it needs some refinement and I may use more glaze & less slip next time!

leaf pendant, cream

to re-fire to the original cone number, here cone 6, i try to put things in the bottom which is the cool spot. you can see that there is only one row of element down there, the bottom shelf has 2 sets of posts, 2 inch for the half shelf and 41/2 for the next full shelf. i know the firing evens out at the end but somehow i just feel better knowing there is a slower rise at the bottom. this kiln load was mixed with re-fire pieces and glazed greenware throughout. nothing bad happened to anything.

Carved with pencil. This mug was the first, so I have added more to the other mugs. I am using a lotus for the design with each petal having some motifs of Peace, Love (heart), Namaste, Vegan and scrolling vines with butterflies. Added my name, logo and Buster stamp on a petal in instead of the bottom, where I carved the spirit symbol.
 
Any suggestions are welcome, please. I was thinking of trying different glazing techniques. I'm open to any ideas. It is a Bee Mix 5 white body, no sand. I fire to ^6.

This is a great project for a museum I was lucky enough to work on. They wanted a poem put onto a 8x8in tile with raised lettering so people could take rubbing from it. This was the test piece about 6x6in. The underglaze is meant to look like soot.

Old victorian block prints seem to work really well. Just etched them a little deeper so they stand out a bit more.

#1 strike fire to 1350F with 30 min. hold. Tile #2 control piece, color before strike.

Latest naked raku

For challenge #6 (self portrait)

this was a grouping of some of there obvara pots from our first process firing Everyone brought small test pieces for learning the processes.

Glaze trailed multiple PC glazes

A small set of hand-built mugs (slab construction) with wheel-thrown rims for family friends...both of whom are musically gifted. The orange has a look of atmospheric firing, but it is actually Amaco Velvet orange underglaze. The sheen over the underglaze is from a light coating of clear. The interior and rim were dipped in Woo's Blue. The details on the piano keys are brushed on. All of the rest of the glazing was sprayed. These are 12oz (.35ml) and stand approximately 5in. (12.7cm) tall. These were fired to Cone 10 in reduction.

White earthenware. Underglaze and Japanese tissue transfers used over negative cut stencil. Waiting to be glazed.

I tried a technique I saw on youtube. Using a heat gun, which I already use on the outing of pot for the crackled surface, the inside walls stiffen enough to really puch pulling up and forming with great control.