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About NancyAmores

  • Rank
    mostly beads & tile

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  • Location
    Rhode Island
  • Interests
    Mid-fire electric, stoneware & porcelain, beads, tile, small handbuilding projects

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  1. Kentucky Mudworks Brown Bear is available in a 25# sample bag. I love this clay, along with all of their clays it's just really well made. Easy to form, low absorbency, most glazes look great, particularly whites and other light colors. Edit to add Laguna's WC-391/B3 is another alternative, you may be able to find a nearby supplier to save on shipping costs. It has more manganese (4% I believe) and so is slightly darker than the BB. It's also a nice clay, but be sure to have a good vent setup, my self-rigged updraft fan wasn't sufficient so I had to stop using it after 2 time because of
  2. I use a stainless steam table pan to sinter metal clay, at 1720F the pan spalls and leaves a mess to vacuum up each time. Once I ordered 12 ga 'kanthal' on Amazon from China, it looked funny but I used it anyways. The rods spalled and the beads were magnetic :0
  3. Her site has no proof of a patent number, just a line that says 'patented'. I did a patent search...nothing except one from 1986 not related to her. Her name isn't even on the site. I'm going to continue my research into this, because I think it's very wrong to go after artists who want to share their process. Sickening, really. I smell BS, and bullying tactics that seemed to have worked, for now at least. When she can give me proof, I'll consider her 'cease and desist' legitimate. If her patent is pending, she doesn't have a leg to stand on. Edit: the decals from bel decal were for model
  4. I hope her patent is denied, she obviously had nothing to do with the development of the technique. Glad I bought lots of sheets from bel decal, I'll be teaching everyone I meet how to do it, just because. edit: found some laser decal paper on amazon, after looking at Linda Arbuckle's page on the process I'm thinking they might work, no coating required.
  5. When I used to bisque to 05, the porcelain was too porous, anything I dipped would get saturated and little air blowouts would happen all over the piece. Had to sand them down after glazing/before firing to smooth out the holes. Bisque firing to 04 took care of that, as well as some of the issues I was having with a red clay. Since I'm making mostly jewelry I dip the entire piece at once; there's heavy saturation, 06 sopped up too much glaze which caused the air blowouts.
  6. Monoprints using a technique learned from Andrew Wandless book Image Printing on Clay, and on CAD from Joanne Veevers
  7. NancyAmores


    Some stoneware pendants I made late 2015
  8. Album for questions I post on forums regarding clay,glazing and decorating
  9. I had a hard time finding a wood rolling pin and didn't want to pay a lot from a clay supplier so I ended up with a teflon-coated one. I like it because it's easy to clean when I switch from red back to porcelain clay. It sticks a little, but only when the clay is really wet and thin.
  10. Wanted to add that Kanthal wire 16 gauge and up is on Amazon for pretty cheap. The wire is used in nicotine vaporizers. I've fired it to cone 6 with no problem, the description says it can go up to 2550F, so cone 10 should also be fine.
  11. Hi Kevin, I probably should have mentioned that I have noticed a slight color change at 05 with the Envisions, they tend to darken. These glazes don't move at all, even at 05, and I haven't had any problems with warping or cracking on either a white talc based body (Laguna #10-T). I used a cooling ramp of 250F to 1500F but I'm still testing to see if I can speed that up and get the same results.
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