.jpeg.e14571b8528e66a7a9c872fd28550125.jpeg)
Min
-
Posts
5,955 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Posts posted by Min
-
-
-
It would have to bee teeny tiny 100ml jars of liquid glaze that fit into a 1 Litre plastic bag.
https://www.tsa.gov/travel/frequently-asked-questions/what-3-1-1-liquids-rule
Re dry ingredients, it can't be anything that is considered hazardous. I wouldn't take the risk, hmmm, fine white powder in a suitcase, what could go wrong? Could ask the TSA but I would think it comes down to the person asking questions if you are selected for a spot search of luggage.
I'ld mail it any dry materials to yourself.
Welcome to the forum
-
My hunch is it won't work. Quick google search shows dextrin is a non viscous type fibre so I doubt it will thicken the glaze. Stir some in water and see what it does.
Unsure of what you mean by "glaze certification"?
-
13 hours ago, Pres said:
One other option is to make the two pieces and not join them together, Just have foot ring that fits into the opening of the base. The foot ring would be thrown into the base of the top pieces as an inner rim.
best,
Pres
That's a good idea. Could go one step further and add locking keys, flange inside the plate part with a keyhole and 2 tab keys on the top of the base.
-
-
@JayJ, do you plan on glazing it or just using underglaze? What type of clay are you using?
Welcome to the forum
-
Try putting the piece on your cheek then take another piece that you absolutely know for sure is dry and put it on the other cheek. If one feels cooler than the other it isn't dry enough to put in the kiln. As Callie said go slow with the firing, soak (aka candle) the kiln at about 90C/200F overnight to ensure it's dry all the way through.
-
@Gonen, looks like the metallic nickel powder can be turned into nickel oxide by heating it to 400C. If you do buy some I would experiment with doing that rather than using it as is.
It's a little confusing on that site as at the bottom of the page it does have some oxides like tin oxide and nickel oxide. Prices don't seem great but then I'm not in Israel so I don't know what prices are for you there.
-
-
Trapped air doesn't cause explosions. What causes explosions is moisture in the clay. It can take a long time for all the moisture to leave the clay so oftentimes people leave a vent hole, not for the moisture to escape but for the air circulation to allow moisture to facilitate moisture escape. Air trapped inside work can rarely cause clay cracking, but not exploding, as the air expands when heated.
I would do whatever you need to do to get that wood skewer out of there. As the clay continues to shrink it can crack as the skewer won't shrink.
Welcome to the forum
- Chilly, Spiros, Callie Beller Diesel and 1 other
-
4
-
Stir in some hydrogen peroxide, won't take much, safe to use and easy on the skin. (unlike chlorine bleach which is sometimes used)
Vinegar will thicken the slip (acts as a flocculant).
Welcome to the forum
-
22 hours ago, kswan said:
Are you all using the same glaze inside and out when doing the magnet method?
Not usually. If I don't want the outside glaze overlapping the inside liner glaze then I wax. If it's the same inside and out and an overlap is okay then just tilting the pot very slightly at the very last moment when lifting it out of the glaze prevents the burping.
-
Just from experience, what is posted on that website isn't always the most accurate descriptions of what is actually received. Some things I've ordered from there are great, others not so much. For sure I would buy the smallest amount first and test it out. Also, if you log in to AliExpress and look at things then hold off buying you will often get emails a few days later with reduced prices of what you have been browsing.
-
I do sell 2nds; pots that have tiny flaws that in no way effect the use of the pots. Things like slightly out of round pots (that are meant to be round) or glazing that isn't quite what I wanted. Definitely no cracks or chips. During summer Farmer's Markets I will put out a basket of clearance or 2nd best pots. This basket of pots isn't on a main table, it's off to the side on a small stool so not too obtrusive. Just about everyone asks why a pot is in my clearance / 2nd best basket, it's usually hard to spot why they are there. Hammer for anything I wouldn't want coming back and biting me.
Thanks for posting my question Pres.
-
The link you posted looks like nickel oxide but I couldn't see that name in the listing specifically. I would email them and ask if that is what it is. I don't know what the purity would be.
-
-
1 hour ago, njabeid said:
The boron frit is from Scarva, Borax Frit 1201. I only use it rarely. The kaolin is kinda "china clay". The feldspar is potassium feldspar from a Spanish supplier. I don't usually use feldspars here, at this rather low temperature, but I have a bucket of this. I'll look at your suggestions but there is no feldspar in the alkaline glaze.
Borax frit 1201 is a high zinc frit, good to know.
23 hours ago, njabeid said:The very fluid glaze is an alkaline glaze with FF 3110 - 45, Gerstley Borate - 45, silica 5 and kaolin 5, plus 2% CuCO3. It totally dissolves the engobe. Is that just too much flux?
Yup, but it's in your engobe isn't it? Sorry, I had 3 things I was thinking about, engobe + both glazes, was looking at your engobe chem but didn't post the chart. For sure too much flux and not enough alumina in your fluid glaze.
-
@njabeid, in your original engobe which boron frit are you using? Is the kaolin you are using Grolleg or ? Any idea of the type of feldspar?
Without knowing the type of feldspar I just went with a hypothetical analysis. Have a look at the alumina levels of your 2 glazes. Also look at the silica : alumina ratios, this also shows how low the alumina is in your high sodium glaze. The "workhorse" clear adds to 110, is this correct? I would lower the boron and increase the alumina to start with and see how this affects glaze fluidity. I would then work on increasing silica levels to a point where the glaze is still glossy. Low silica levels means less glaze durability.
-
8 hours ago, Bill Kielb said:
The sodium decreases very slightly, prox. 0.01, magnesium increases by .prox. 0.01 and calcium decreases by 0.01. All a result of lowering the 3134. The flux ratio moves from prox 0.21:0.79 to 0.2:0.8, again a change of prox 0.01 all pretty immaterial and still in an expected durable range. so I would expect it’s still an easy way to try to work with the same recipe and reduce the gloss while not changing its durability. It may change the fit and certainly...
Crazing could be an issue as COE goes from 6.8 to 7.5 (Same materials, nothing new added or taken away so COE is valid and applicable) Perhaps you could include a recipe for Betty using either Custer or Minspar 200 given G200 isn't available.
@Bam2015, when you test this I would suggest doing some delayed crazing tests on it.
-
Lots of good thoughts and info here. So, what we do know is that both copper and cobalt act as fluxes. But, that one pot with the higher cobalt amount came out fine. The cup with the really fluid glaze with the camel looks like the glaze was very fluid. Overfluxed or overfired?
Refiring with extra glaze fixes the pinholes and pits, this is interesting.
One constant is the areas over the engobe are an issue. Seems logical to try an engobe without borax. If this engobe works until it doesn't either it's not aged well or I'ld try it with increased 3110 and zero borax. Or, is it the aged engobe that is the issue and not fresh?
+1 for increasing the zirconium to decrease the faded engobe areas. (even though they look nice IMHO)
-
@cafedunier, given the effects of thermal shock it's best to use a clay and glaze that are low in expansion. Ask your supplier which claybody they recommend and for a glaze that fits it if you use commercial glazes.
Design of the ovenware also comes into play. Avoid wide flat bases with a sharp corner where the wall meets the base.
- Kelly in AK and Rae Reich
-
2
-
6 hours ago, Bill Kielb said:
...and may change the glaze fit
Yup, and the durability. Glaze will still be high in sodium and fairly high in potassium, I'ld prefer to use an oxide(s) that contribute to matting.
-
To sum up is this correct?
1 ) pinholes, craters, blisters, engobe peeling back etc show up with the engobe areas but not with just glaze over bare clay
2 ) glaze firing hotter than bisque firing (what is your bisque firing schedule and is the kiln vented somehow?)
3) no alternative claybody available to you
4) adding copper ox or cobalt carb results in flaws over the engobe but not over bare clay (except when a larger amount of cobalt carb was used)
When did this problem start? What changes have happened? Does your kiln fire fairly evenly or are there areas that get much hotter? Any chance you use cones?
@neilestrick, borax was used by Daniel Rhodes in every engobe recipe he used, low, med or high fire. He found it crucial to ensure the engobe bond with the claybody during the early part of the firing. Yup, borax is definitely soluble so large amounts of slip are not mixed; just what can be used in the short term. That being said perhaps it was the lack of low melting boron frits at the time that led him to use borax. Could possibly increase the 3110 and remove the borax.
edit: I think Neil's underglaze idea is a really good one if you can get it.
-
Hi Nancy,
I found the original thread on how you came up with the engobe recipe, its here: https://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/16020-engobe-and-glaze/.
Just to confirm you are glaze firing to 1100C approx cone 03-02?
2 hours ago, njabeid said:folding out the engobe+glaze
I think those areas are where the engobe hasn't bonded well with the body.
39 minutes ago, njabeid said:I wonder whether in Spain, where I had my very first pottery lessons, 'engobe' is the word for slip?
Google translate has Spanish for engobe as slip.
Can you help me identify what OLD Skutt model kiln I have?
in Equipment Use and Repair
Posted
NOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!