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Rae Reich

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Everything posted by Rae Reich

  1. I don't think I would want castable for the interior of a kiln. It really doesn't form up as dense and integrated as hard brick. It would surely tend to crumble and disintegrate and fall on the kiln contents, imo.
  2. Don't lose heart, @Pawelpksa, starting over now with good advice will save your money and time and pots! You have been very thoughtfully building this kiln, unfortunately without the knowledge of the frailties of overheated cement and concrete. Please give your careful attention to this problem. Rae
  3. In 1979, I paid $1000 for a catenary 12 cu ft hardbrick kiln and assorted shelves and glazes. 'Course, it had to be mapped, disassembled, hauled across town in an ancient pickup (stop loading when tires distort), bricks cleaned and reassembled. Oh, we were an energetic crew of potters and friends!
  4. Interesting layout. A catenary arch will hold itself up, other arches need bracing but will be a bit roomier in the curve.
  5. I read the emailed version of this project. Sounds like it will be as perfect as you can make it! Heated closets!!!
  6. Are you allowing for a place to rest your elbows while working? On the board?
  7. Could you stuff the burner ports after/when you shut off the kiln? With kaowool? Introduce a bit of combustibles then?
  8. Hi, @dianen, and welcome! I work in similar mode and have, over the years, developed a couple of solutions. After much searching, I finally found a comfortable chair with soft arms that are the perfect height to rest my elbows while carving and decorating/glazing. The arms are as long as the chair and level so that I can rest a board across that holds my turntable/banding wheel for close work on small pots. I also have an old rolling "computer" table, the kind with a base that rolls under your couch or chair, like bed tables in hospitals. I use that for larger pieces so I don't have to lift the pot or board when I get up. Just be careful to balance the load on it, some are more tippy than others. The height is adjustable on most, but closer to the ground is preferable for stability. When you find that chair, protect it from large persons who plop!
  9. Hey! Welcome back, Preeta! I missed your contributions. What are you up to now?

    1. oldlady

      oldlady

      yes!   glad to see you back.   hope all was well during your absence.  miss photos of your work.

    2. preeta

      preeta

      Awww thank you guys. Just have had a lot going on. Mainly my teenage daughter's medical issues. Just trying to find answers which we are close to finally after suffering for 5 years.  

      Taking a principals of cooking class (3 hours straight standing and cooking. I loved every minute of it but it was only on the way back home the exhaustion would hit me) , starting a garden at a community plot plus working more. 

      I've taken all the community college classes in clay so now I volunteer to keep using the lab. So I have had no free time.  Plus i really got into researching the political world. I had to leave that now because it got too depressing (But thanks to Vaclav Havel i havent lost hope) and so I'm back here.  

      Clay is my first love and you guys are a great bunch to hang out with. I've missed the clay talk. So I've come home.  

      I love this sense of community. I found that in culinary and gardening as well as clay. 

      Eeh one day I'll have the guts to post pictures of my work.  I've got the form to where I like it but now am working on the skin I'd like to complete my work. I love our gas kiln. I've also finally accepted who I am as a potter. Which influence I want to show more. My political research helped me with that. I was grateful to find my voice of protest through my pottery. Now finally as a potter I am at peace.  

    3. Rae Reich

      Rae Reich

      Wow! What a lot of new input for your clay work - will we see "message" veggie steamers? Serving dishes for Peace? With all the talk about "kitchen table issues," the table surely is where community begins.

      Love and best wishes to you and your family 

      Rae

  10. LOL - do they come in tan? Years ago, my Mom asked my daughter what to get for my birthday, she said, "Clay-colored overalls."
  11. The Soldner mixer is like a concrete mixer
  12. I think OP wants to use the pugmill as a sort of extruder. Perhaps a simple extruder would work as well and be much easier to clean. However, cement/concrete sets up so quickly, relative to clay, that I think there would be many other technical difficulties with such a process. I know that in the big concrete mixer trucks, they don't dare stop the barrel's rotation or the concrete hardens and the driver has to climb inside and hammer-and-chisel it out.
  13. Obviously, that wheel will have to be reinvented for each of our individual needs. Maybe check out the catalogs of uniform supply companies to see what's available and appealing. I throw pretty dry, so my legs don't need protection, but I still wear my decommissioned lightweight work jackets we wore at the Pottery Shack - 3/4 sleeves, crotch length, button front, two pockets, loose fit. More pockets usually means hunting more places. Although I don't usually wear polyester, these jackets wash beautifully and wear like iron. Mine were used when I got them in 1979! I also wear them for outdoor work like gardening and painting. As soon as I put one on, I feel ready to work.
  14. You might be adding air bubbles to your slip when stirring/mixing. If you think that's the case, try tapping/banging on the slip container before pouring to work out some of those bubbles. If the slip is very thick, it may hold onto bubbles, not allowing them to move easily up and out. Experiment with thinning the slip, a little at a time, in a small batch. Air bubbles should move easily to the surface to pop in the container before you pour into the mold.
  15. Hmmm... This goes a long way toward explaining why my kneading efforts have been disappointing - I've been wedging out the air! Thanks, @Chilly
  16. Definitely going to try this recipe, though most of you haven't been very helpful in helping me understand the difference between wedging motions and kneading motions I will try. @Callie Beller Diesel, does "turn" mean "turn over" or "turn clockwise( or widdershins)"?
  17. @Callie Beller Diesel, "bun smush"???
  18. Thanks, all. Guess I should have been more specific. I'm familiar with the various types of wedging. I learned to cone, which was described as pre-aligning the clay platelets in a spiral before throwing, as well as conditioning the clay and homogenizing it. So, the object of bread kneading - is it just to homogenize? @neilestrick's recipe seems to rely on moisture alone. For breads that need kneading, how does that action, motion differ from ram's head wedging? Am I conditioning/homogenizing but not necessarily aligning molecules? Do I just need to whack it around like the bread machine does?
  19. Any bread-making potters out there? I've been trying to make bread recently. Apparently, kneading bread differs from wedging. The bread machine flings the dough around sort of randomly but produces a lovely loaf. What do I need to re-learn or un-learn?
  20. After you've pressed the femo in to fill the details of the mold, add even more till it mounds up. Then use a flat femo blade or a razor blade if the pieces are small, to slice off the excess. Smooth any rough edges with your finger. The femo blade works best because it is about 8" long and 5/8" wide and very thin and sharp. It doesn't work as well on clay. A stiff fettling knife would work best for water-based clay.
  21. I did not know that the spouts continue to wind, rather than unwind, just knew how to offset for "twist" without thinking which direction it was winding. Thanks! Never too old to learn
  22. I think these are "occasional" rings, not daily-wear rings. Standard disclaimers regarding possibility of scratching of the gold and/or breaking the ring under high-pressure should be sufficient. @MeganH, you won't need to worry about distortion as long as you have not distorted the clay rings before they dry and if the rings aren't hanging during glaze firing from a narrow rod, but laying flat on an unglazed edge resting on a surface dusted with alumina (any residue washes off after firing). Unglazed area can be smoothed with emery cloth before the lustre ^018 firing.
  23. That's a new one on me - doesn't lead fire out at higher temps? @Jared219, the obviously-painted-look of the hearts and banding probably comes from actually painting on the previously glazed surface with a lower firing glaze or enamel. These can indeed be scratched or marred by wear. The orange matte glaze has such an even application because it was sprayed on, I think, but not because it is paint sprayed on.
  24. A photo of the bottom, however indescribable, is necessary for attribution.
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