Babs
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Posts posted by Babs
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Great, you guys.
It's about development of the whole person, the brain is overloaded with info from screens and the neg. side of this is evident.
Good luck.
Run a clay session for the Staff!!
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Hard one, could bring it in as Design and Tech component of the curriculum.
Depending on where you are, you may find you have to fire over the weekend...
Such a sad outlook, local schools don't even have a qualified art teacher atm because of that attitude. The pottery room and contents sold off after decades of a highly diverse art program.
I taught a class of recalcitrant students, mostly boys. They were coming in at lunchtimes to wprk on their projects, ironically one was making fish head....bookends! All drawn out in the design books prior to start.
Have you colleagues in area where you can take images of students engagememt in the processes involved?
Could compare with other areas of curr...English without novel reading, etc
Not very helpful, keep plugging at it.
The need for folk to leave school with healthy life time leisure pursuits, during lockdown, thousands took up ceramics .Introduction at school important for giving confidence required to approach these pursuits....
- Callie Beller Diesel, Min, Hulk and 1 other
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Do you know the recipe of the glazs?.just that there is a practice of once fired pots which doez just rhat, appIurs glaze to an unfured clay. It could go into a glaze firing if it is possible to slow the glaze fire down till after 600°C. Or making sureno glaze on the base, bisque fire as usual then put through a glaze fire.
Or with mask on, sand off the glaze.
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On 10/25/2023 at 3:23 AM, Fiona B said:
Sorry Neil. I replied to you last night but it doesn't seem to have posted.
I cannot find any decent info online ass to a number or type ('k' or whatever). I can only find a spare parts (https://www.rohde.eu/media/pdf/c8/f5/cf/2020-Preisliste-KH-Ersatzteile_EN-web.pdf - page 9).
My bisque is:
Celcius:
50ph 100
83ph 600
133ph 800
72ph 980, 20 min hold
Glaze fire:
90ph 300
115ph 1060
100ph 1220, 20 min hold.
Someone elsewhere mentioned relays, it seems to be switching it on and off okay and time for firings are okay. Still a bit stumped.
I have just borrowed a controller and put on another glaze firing to see if i can gain any more info...
Thanks for your reply, Fiona
When you turn on the kiln your controller may flick through a couple ofessages one of those, on mine is the thermocouple type, mine reads before I touch the buttons :Fail, tcR which is the thermocouple Type R. Then I go to the programme I want.
The manual you need,if you haven't got one , is for the controller, not the kiln.
Good luck, very frustrating.
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Can you read back, or have logged the actual temp reached/ hr?
Does the controller signal an error code?
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Do you keep a log?
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6 hours ago, Babs said:
Is it pos with your bisque you put Cone 4,5,6 instead of cone 04,05,06?
How did your bisque take tthe glaze? If below cone 06, as you have indicated, then it would suck up the glaze resulting in a different glaze thickness.
3 hours ago, Fiona B said:No, definitely right cones.
Haven't glazed as yet, this weekend. I’m just waiting on opening another glaze fire with pre-glazed pieces from before element change. I’ve changed the controller and schedule right now to get some more information, so we’ll see. I’ll do another bisque soon and look at that schedule.
It’s the lower bisque that is throwing me but hopefully the bisque done will take the glaze okay, they look and feel no different than usual, perhaps more dusty. We’ll see if they act differently. Still perplexed!
thanks for the input.
Did you have a bank of cones on each shelf?
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Is it pos with your bisque you put Cone 4,5,6 instead of cone 04,05,06?
How did your bisque take tthe glaze? If below cone 06, as you have indicated, then it would suck up the glaze resulting in a different glaze thickness.
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Ego got in the way of best practice, or lack of education couldbe tge go. go above inspector level and state your case but it may backfire and they will inspect your propert forever...how does this sit with insurance cover?
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Just absorbing what I can. Hamer and Hamer, I think, names Mg as a "catalyst " at lower temps and a flux at higher...have to look up the definitions of those terms in chemistry.
Lay talk, catalyst "encourages" a reaction, flux allows reaction to occur at a lower temp?
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Reason I suggested deflocculated slip is at the same consistency, it will contain much less water and so less shrinkage as it dries, and thus less cracking, also what Callie wrote above re strength of bond.
Any mending will have to really dry out before refiring or going straight to glazing, I'd try one panda first.
Beautiful pandas btw.
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19 hours ago, Terri98 said:
I generally Raku my animal sculptures. My last batch of clay is giving me some challenges with cracking. I have several, some bisque ware that presented with cracks and some greenware. My clay has Kyanite but I am not sure it has enough grog. It is a special blend. Unfortunately it is presenting problems. I have heard that paper clay can be used to fill cracks and than I re-fire. The clay I am currently using is not a paper clay. I would still like to Raku if possible.
Thanks Terri
You made these? Cracks where arm is joined may be a drying, difference in moisture of pieces at time of joining. What slip are you using. May need to go for a deflocculated slip or "magic water". Solid legs , cracking where meeting body, again s moisture imbalance when drying. Might need to pierce the legs from feet up many times with skewers after making. Dry long and slow in a container. These have been bisqued? Can use a product "SPOOZE" or some folk use a commercial product. Need to rebisque
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If you are touching up underglaze after the bisque then if not dry as rest of pot, those areas withh take glaze differently.
I underglaze just after trimming, spritzing the entire pot ,inside and outfor an even acceptance of the u.g.
I add frit to a couple of blues and a black. Not knowing the products you are using, I don't know if this is relevant. When I don't add the frit , the glaze doesn't "meld" with the underglaze, it "crumples" and crawls.
Rims are tricky for the moisture though, and grabbing more than their share of u.g. therefore.
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3 hours ago, PeterH said:
May be of interest, as it indicate that clay:water ratio and slip fluidly can -- to some extent -- be controlled independently.
@PeterHThis is a great video. The thickened slip John is making will stand up and maintain its own shape. If the slip the OP , @s6x, wants needs to flow over existing texture, it doesn't need re thickening but testing will need to happen to get the required fit to the clay body being used.
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If you make a very thick slip, then make it desired fluidity by using Darvan or sodium silicate, just drop by drop, then with less water involved there will be less shrinkage. Too much darvan will make it go clumpy.
Also, spray your sculpture with a fine mist of water prior to adding slip to it will help also.
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6 hours ago, Mark C. said:
really i'm making less but slowing down is a gradual deal
Absolutely and I think that tiger's dont change stripes midstream, keeps the brain and body sorted, and you dont know the word "bored" either.
Keep creating.
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2 hours ago, Mark C. said:
Spent a huge part of summer getting ready and moving and now firing a new to me Geil 18 cubic foot downdraft kiln.
It started years ago when I found this kiln for my self and a potter fiend I know said he wanted it so I let him buy it and ship it up from LA. He fired it twice and passed away. I promised his widow to clean out his studio which I did a few years ago and this summer finally made moved the kiln (it weights about 2,700#s)
It require me knocking out some support collums and putting in two 20 foot LVL beams so I could open up my kiln area out under a huge metal roof area. Once the beams where in We moved the small 12 cubic updraft out of the way and I jackhammered out the column supports I poured in 1974. And made large cement pad -about two yards of concrete -I had a pump truck pump it into our space. I added some small wings to the main pour a few days later exposing in more rebar for the kilns to set back from one another more. I had to deconstruct a wall at kiln site in his kiln room and spent 3 days getting kiln out onto a specialized equipment trainer with a pallet jack .The trailer jacks down flush with ground level to put kiln on and made a solid wood support structure in girl kiln (floor sides and arch support to move it the 15 miles. Here at home it landed on the street for 5 days and derusted then painted it where it needed it and had a local yard move it with a forklift to my pad where I again used a pallet jack to fine tune it and the other kiln. Of courseI had to move my gas lines before the concrete went in and got two 1 inch line stubbed up from my 2 inch lines underground that run through my kiln area. I had to change out 15 orfices in the Geil (drilled them out with super fine drill buts) as the kiln was propane and now its low pressure natural gas. I tried to fire all three kilns at one a few weeks ago and did not have enough gas to do that but I did fire the Geil and my car kiln two days ago with no issues. I was abal to put both my peter Puggers on this slab as well and now that can move around with ease. The whole area is way more efficient now and I did I had done this 10 years ago. The Geil sips gas but now i must order 14 new 14x28 advancers as the old shelves it came with are just to thick and heavy and warped for my old body. Those shelves will cost as much as I paid for the kiln and will take 3 months to ship here from Germany (thru bailey). I am unloading my second glaze fire today from the Geil and I have bisqued in it twice as well. The auto pilot system has a few bugs but I'm working thru it.
Glad you told us you were downsizing and slowing down!!!
Inspirational!
- Pyewackette and Kelly in AK
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Anyone mixing or stirring glazes where your glazed ware is sitting?
Any granules in your glazes?
I can understand the black brown bits coming from the kiln lid or edges but the specks of blue suggest contamination coming from elsewhere. A fugitive lurking in the kiln would be more likely to tint a glaze than speckle it, imo
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On 9/24/2023 at 6:30 AM, Ben xyz said:
Have the same question. My Amaco Underglaze (electric blue) decoration is somewhat involved (on a bisque piece) and I don't want to diminish or smear/run the details when the (dipped) clear goes over it. I see both arguments here about the necessity of bisque firing again before applying clear (or not)...
To be on the safe side, will likely end up bisque firing again to ensure the detailed design is 'secured' before clear dip and final cone 5 firing; as long as the repeated bisque firing won't stress out the Underglaze color at all.Btw, my spellcheck always capitalizes 'Underglaze' here - weird.
@Ben xyz you can apply the underglaze to your unfired pots, bisque, then glaze. No need to rebisque if do this, more economical.
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Maybe post a pic of your efforts, and what you'd like to achieve.
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The above advice is sound but unless clay is also v low fired clay, doeant explain the unglazed ware sticking together at cone 4, @Lainer, did they distort also? Bloat?
What is the firing range recommended fir yiur clay?
How do I convince the High School Principal that getting a kiln for our clay unit in Art Class is important ?
in Studio Operations and Making Work
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And is there a community studio which could fire your students work? Linking school with a community resource , the results displayed in school foyer???
Softly softly catch the monkey!!
One comment re my boys group was how quiet the room was from the corridor not me the dragon, but absorption of students in what they were trying to acheive. ..
@Benzine can you help