Babs
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Posts posted by Babs
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Until you replace the plug and talk to the electrician re wiring et al requirements in your property, you cannit do more than get a visual of the kiln. Carefully check the elements.
Are they standing up or sagging , do they spill out of their "troughs"?
Do you get kiln furniture and what state is it in. Did you get photos?
What does the term lightly used mean...plug looks "used"
Where has it been stored?
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Even signingbup for a class can be expensive.
Go to a clay supplier, ask for a liw fired clay. Make stuff with it, lots of "how to" stuff on line, a lot not useful, a lot generated by very good potters. Then you will get some idea re your natural feel for the clay.
Simple safe kiln can be made fot backyard..check what's allowed re outside fires. You dont have to fire your first pieces. Just wet down your pieces, wedge and use again!
Afterwhich, if smitten by the pottery bug, and within your means and time constraints, join a class.
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With eye protection can you see any pots through peep hole? Any sheen on the surface? That's a lot of heatwork.
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I think there are lots of different reasons people go to pottery classes.
Today they use heat guns, I remember, time constraints and pots thrown onevweek could not be turned the next week so tgey were put infront of the kiln blasting away in the corner of an unvented studio, soun on the wheel infront of a 2 bar strip heater, put on top of the hot kiln SO that everyone finished the course with sthing to take home.
From there a couple a year would pursue ceramics seriously, go down the road of apprentice or whatever and adopt a system which best suits their needs.
Judging others easy to do, that's all.
I'll just away down the street and buy a coffee in my ceramic keep cup and feel religious.
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I guess I was thinking along the lines, the only person you can change is yourself.
- baetheus and Bill Kielb
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Whew, covers a lot of ground!!!
Maybe a trip to where the clay is mined is where this line should start...then the clay miles:-))
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14 hours ago, IvanLane said:
Greetings! I'm about to start a personal project—a coffee table—and I'm eager for your input. I plan to craft ceramic legs supporting a glass top, potentially raising concerns about weight. What do you recommend: making the legs hollow so a metal rod can be inserted post-firing for added strength, or is a solid design preferable? The legs should be around 14" in height and approximately 3-6" in diameter. Thanks for your insights!
See the above info from @PeterH. This is what I was remembering.
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I think the kiln shelf will grab your clay slip and it will crack...
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Why not run some rest tiles?
Decant a known amount of your glaze. Add known increasing amounts amounts of water to a few cups, add known same amount of glaze to each cup. Dip test tiles., same tile in three different dips in same cup to test thickness desireable. Fire.
It could be as "simple" as that.
Loks like yIur glaze wants to stck to itself no matter what.
If you get a result you like, maybe you can save the batch by adding the required amount of water, Or you could add a known amount of this espom salt rich stuff to a new batch and dont add any more epsom, if sone could do the Maths. Maybe @Rockhopper he saved me in the past.
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On 9/13/2023 at 11:40 PM, Hulk said:
I'm using Lakeside Pottery Clear Blue; it goes on and fires well, does not move much, and is fairly consistent over edges.
The formula is on Lakeside Pottery's website; it's been copied to Glazy as well:
Clear Blue | GlazyIt does call for Talc.
I'm using the no longer widely available C-98 talc, and have enough to last several years, however, if/when the supply runs low, I'll be testing alternative sources of MgO, an important part of several glazes I use and really (really!) like...There's some lightening at the edge of the knob, which may be difficult to avoid with any transparent blue over white clay; any road, it lays flat and doesn't move, excepting if put on very thickly.
Have you tried it without the CMC? Why is it included? Glaze application?
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Not been aware of prices going the other way in my neck of the woods, mines tend to close when the share holder returns are nit " good" enough
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@Dave Earley, glaze nerd has replied. Might help you with your research
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And still we are throwing awY lithium batteries.
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1 hour ago, Rae Reich said:
Carpet tape is wide and sticky on both sides. It can stick to carpet, so bisque should be no problem. I think it’s removable (if done soon and has not had a heavy weight applied for a generous period of time
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Question: Why does it need to be sticky on both sides?
@Babs do you mean contact paper? Good suggestion!
Yes, Contact but didnt know if tgat name was universally known.
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In the Clay and Glaze section of these firums there is a post right at the op or near it titled Wild Clay.
@glazenerd is a great resource also.
Throws pretty well!
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Are you wedging on plaster?, big grog in your clay?
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What about the stuff folk use to cover books? Clear or coloured, or the psuedo bench solash back stuff, both come in rolls at different widths so quite a variety of screen outs possjble.
Are you burning it off? Look out for fumes, taking off before firing , it could lift the underlying glaze if any.
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Not sure but blue for me, I have to mix a little frit into the blue underglaze so it stays smooth under the glaze. A little of the glaze if it is a non run clear would also sort this. As it is not all over your blue dec. Could it be the rough patches are applied thicker when brush fully loaded? Or underglaze not stirred between brush strokes?
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I am seeing the non glazed ring as a carved out ring to which the maker attaches a pedestal after the firing. Is that correct?
If this is occurring in other platters, I would flick them on coming out of thr bisque firing to hear if they ring or thunk, ping or pung. The unevenness of thickness of clay. Proximity to kiln elements. Unevenness is in drying?
Beuatiful onglaze decoration!
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Also,if mending anything, the pot and mending paste have to be totally dry before refiring. Folk have had success, though not saying with yhis type of crack, dont know , Spooze with paper added.
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Advice needed: Phil of bison tools
in Studio Operations and Making Work
Posted
Well you could play the game and offer to send him more money in case he is financially wrecked!
Scammers abound, just saying. Not digitally savvy, an Intermediary may be intercrpting orders and money , if so your offer may bring the eel from its burrow!
Not the forst time some liwCclife has taken over a dead petsons id