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Babs

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Everything posted by Babs

  1. If the design of pot doesn't need the extra weight of a closed base, after joining, the base could be carved away, or the "base" could be thrown without a base , as it were.
  2. Are you going to use it as an underglaze or onglaze technique? Tin Oxide expensive and rising fast is one reason I can think of. Test it to se if you like what you get Discussed in this post
  3. Holes in the base will aid drying for sure. It is moisture not trapped air whih will nlow a piece apart. So is base is thick , pierce it to allow i todry out.
  4. Bit like discussion of finer grades of Silicone carbide in the current lava glaze post.
  5. Some absolutely beautiful results. Did the same on fabric way efore the ecoprint bonanza. Nothing left untouched. Lunch boxes not even safe from mad potters Sorry for the sidestep folks.
  6. Does anyone remember folk adding burnables to glazes to get a lava effect...rice bubbles? Might be fun to try John Britt comes to mind.
  7. Yip, my thoughts exactly. And 2x made me more convinced about it. Doc told me to work out because of bone density. What a joke!! He's the one I should be sending photos to:-)))) Anyway I'll keep that in mind when I pug and pack, dammitttt. Sense of ironic humour helps most things
  8. Almost need a video. Was a post years ago re what one wears when potting or checking kiln thro' the night. A few belly laughs when time got away or the potting shed trapped the innocent night kiln watcher!
  9. Thanks Min, I live on an Island, freight and fuel a bummer, I've fought in the past when huge chunks was in their fine throwing clay...filter blew out but to return about 10 yrs ago was over $200 freight each way. Sorry for the moans, have done some bags re@Pres just extra disappointing labour for an aging body. Was seriously thinking no more reclaiming, just spread over sandy paddocks.. Will send the photos to them . It may jolt them into action. It comes from a working pottery so their potters, garden pots and such ware, will have moaned and got it sorted I am sure. Not sure how important the selling of their clay is in their business finances. Any way, no miracle cure, will also try Nerd's stuff. Think the vinegar just eases the surface.
  10. Thanks @Hulk. Annoying to have to do this with clay fresh out of the bag, but.
  11. OM4 a ball clay? Got a few ball clays random ancient ones So there you are! Got ball clay F . So will play. Thanks @Hulk
  12. The ladt tonne of clay I bought, red clay fires as high as c4-5 with a loss of the typical terracotta red, but I dont mind that. It Is very short, handle making a nightmare. I add a splosh of vinegar to my throwing water and handle making which helps a bit. Company says no other complaint ...hmmm, Any way let me know how you'd tackle this. I have an ancient Shimpo pugmill. I encorporatr the throwing slop. So unbag, pug with bentonite or what?ad vinegar there too
  13. https://www.instagram.com/tv/COz6edTFy6Y/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= Check out his other posts. Big pots.
  14. Few end knuckles with red spots here. Not rubbing, Arthur here , not visiting, staying. Worse in cold weather, gloves help but not when thowing. Dont notice it when throwing, but afterwards!!!. Bit clumsier though... Bigger handles on tools, tapeclittle finger straight to next finger when knitting, or it converts to a claw...
  15. The author, Janet de Boos, 1978 published info to this extent , referencing the great Ivan England's work in creating mid fire glazes and their increasing value to the pottery world . "Glazes for Australian Potters" ISBN 0 726922129 Some recipes range from C1 to C7 with additions or decreases to make work... mentions the need of working with fickle fluxes Zinc Oxide and Barium and the more difficult path required in formulating glaze recipes at midfire temperatures, the advantages are considerable however. Frits
  16. Is there a signature? Will you post photos edge on or the back of the piece?
  17. This is Digital info, but on sale Aus. https://walkerceramics.com.au/products/materials/frits/ gives anslysis and subs/ replacements.
  18. Then there arevthe guys who have a wooden frame work, collapsable , and totally covered with ropes. After the pot is built around the above the frame is collapsed, ropes unwound and there you go. French or Spanish I think. http://www.poterie-provencale.com/savoirfaire_gb.swf
  19. What did your bank of cones tell you?
  20. Folk try to get that look by applying a soda wash to unglazed clay. I think it is a fuming of the sodium as Min is saying. It could be that the bisque is porous and a thin "layer" of glaze is migrating up the interior of the wall of pot as the pot is dipped .....maybe.
  21. Check out Jkhn Britts video on spotted purples using Ashley'sBest. Specific firing schedules required, and thickness to achieve the purple
  22. So many tunnels in this rAbbit hole, and now we can use heatguns to firm up the sections or light a fire inside like @Pres
  23. That glazing method would do it, aside from the difference often noticed between inside and outside of pots because of othrr reasons. Try dipping mug into glaze and holding the desired time and comparing that to your first result. Not enough glaze? Do the inside, wait o'night then do exterior..
  24. Yes that is the one. I still wonder why the vessel isn't constructed upside down, but I guess it evolved and was designed by greater folk. Today with the tools to lift and flip vessels to aid assembly of big pots, different methods become possible. Wouldn't want to be the one who accidently kicked one of those supports out from under...
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