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About docweathers

  • Rank
    Gismo Guy
  • Birthday 09/01/1944

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Spokane Wa
  • Interests
    Cone 6, gas and electric, thrown pottery
    Large welded sculpture from scrap metal

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  1. docweathers

    Slip trailing on top of ^ 6 glaze

    I think I found the answer. It is a two-part solution. First, I tried putting a little, cellulose, as in paper Clay, with quite a bit of CMC. This stopped the line from cracking into sections.. However, the whole line would peel up , sometimes actually pulling up most of the base glaze stuck to the bottom of my little white line. Second, To solve this, I'm now spraying the raw underlying glaze with a solution of CMC and letting it dry before applying the slip trailing. This works wonderfully. My little white line does not break into sections and it stays down amazingly well. In fact, it sticks down so well that it's really quite hard to scrape off, even when this procedure is applied to a very soft fluffy raw based glaze.
  2. docweathers

    Slip trailing on top of ^ 6 glaze

    Yes, I screwed up. I meant that it was ^6 clay that had been bisqued. I should have gone on to say that I bisque as ^04. If it continues to get any hotter, I will just set my stuff out in the sun to bisque.
  3. docweathers

    Slip trailing on top of ^ 6 glaze

    I'm just a beginner hobbyist so I have all the time in the world to test stuff. So, it looks like calcination and glazed nerds brushing media are the answers.
  4. docweathers

    Slip trailing on top of ^ 6 glaze

    Neil I'm trying to draw raised white lines on top of raw glaze on top of bisqued clay Preeta No it does not have to be slip. Under glaze would be fine as long as I can apply it over a raw glaze on a bisque pot and it will give me a smooth raised line. Do you have a favorite under glaze formula that would do this? Magnolia mud I do have some calcinated clay I could try. Glaze nerd I found your suspender very useful for a lot of things but I haven't given it a try for this. Maybe now is the time. Thanks all for your suggestions
  5. I know that slip trailing is usually done on green ware but like everything else, I'm gotta mess with a different approach. I need a slip trailing formula that I can put over ^ 6 glaze which is over ^6 bisqueware. I'm using Georgie's G mix 6/ grog. I've tried fiddling with some traditional slip trailing formulas but the shrinkage rate is so much different that my nice smooth lines turn into dashed lines as the trailing shrinks.
  6. docweathers


    I have a new whisper VL and love it. It's absolutely quiet and extremely responsive to speed changes, almost to a startling extent. I've never had any problems slowing it down even with very large 20 pound plus lumps of clay. However, I may not be stressing it as much because of the way that I throw dry with custom roller based tools. One of the reasons that I bought it is that the direct drive internal mechanics are a lot simpler than any other wheel. To me, that means less to break.
  7. I think I will stick to stoneware. I just checked the shrinkage values of porcelains vs my G mix/6.. Porcelain shrinks a lot less so my glaze would not fit. At this stage, I am not going to go through the ritual of modifying my glazes.
  8. My problem in trying various porcelains is where I live, Spokane Washington. There are no major suppliers here and shipping, particularly small amounts, of clay is quite ridiculous. It can easily cost more than the clay itself. Being the cheapie I am, that is a consideration. Some people think I'm so tight, I squeaked when I walk.
  9. I will give porcelain a try....since i am an experimenter at heart. Once I successfully make something, I rarely make another. It is more fun to stretch my skills in another direction.
  10. Such oversimplification of the mere structure is not as helpful as I thought you would be. I was hoping for a more in depth discussion of how rapid quantum phase changes cause quantum mechanical wave-interferences with the van der Waals force
  11. This is mostly redundant to the above post since this forum will not let me edit the above post ------ Hey dude, I want the full chemistry lesson. No shortcuts allowed. Glazenerd does mix and sell a fancy porcelain. I have tried a little of it. From a beginners point of view, it seems to throw easily. However, I , as a beginner have no comparison to any other porcelain . A beginner would think that white stoneware is white because it has very little iron to leach???
  12. Glazenerd does mix and sell a fancy porcelain. I have tried a little of it. From a beginners point of view, it seems to throw easily. However, I , as a beginner have no comparison to any other porcelain . I would think that white stoneware is white because it has very little iron, magnesium and titanium..... to leach???
  13. If you like both porcelain and black clay, US pigment has a black porcelain that is supposed to be pretty good. My throwing skills are descent. I guess I need a porcelain clay sample kit to try out several to see what works best :). I have used white stoneware almost exclusively because it seemed like a bad for a beginner to add the extra variable of different clays to the complexity of different glazes. I did try some white porcelain that Glazenerd sent me. It did seem to throw pretty easily. And yes, I have also had cracking problems with white stoneware. I did not realize that white stoneware was more prone to that. Since I throw completely dry, the extra water absorption of porcelain would not be a problem. .... I think the above is taking to myself to talk myself into switching to porcelain.... Thanks all for providing me with the grist to chew on.
  14. "I ended up being confused as for why anyone would use a white stoneware.".... please expand on this. On test tiles tiles I have gotten porcelain clay to stick very well to white stoneware bisque and through firing. The porcelain coating makes both bisque and glaze fire clay slightly whiter. However, there is no color difference between favorite glazes like Selsor Oribe and Copper Red w/Silicon Carbide between that applied directly to the stoneware vs over the porcelain layer. From what I understand, I should get brighter colors over the porcelain. I don't get it???

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