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  2. My handles tend to be more of a droopy "D" form. The image is of some older pieces before I started with the extruded handles, and with texturing before shaping, but it is about the handle. Hopefully will get some of the new pieces that I am doing for an order from Savannah before too long. Chalices and patens big now as the order goes out next week. best, Pres
  3. Potter Putter Doesn't hurt to have a killer rutile blue done to perfection, now does it?
  4. I don't make mugs except for family gifts. I have 3 mugs I thought were perfect from a pro potter in Iowa. All 3 have a chip on the rim. I think mugs are about the hardest thing to make because of the ergonomics involved. The handle being only one factor, but the most tactile. Except for the rim, the width of the mug, the overall weight. Let's leave out aesthetics. I've never made the perfect mug. Some of my recipients say differently, but they have not studied the matter.
  5. I prefer mugs with a one-finger handle, like these... I have a few of Paul's mugs and they are so comfortable to hold. Even with a larger handle, I still tend to hold them with my index finger, with the handle resting on my middle finger. Holding a mug with 2, 3, or 4 fingers in the handle is uncomfortable for me. His mugs sell out in seconds, literally, so he must be onto something! .
  6. Today
  7. Tips on building a wedging table. Make it as strong as you possible can. My preferred construction method is to cut the lateral supports 2x4 into the legs 4x4 Screw and glue with Gorilla Glue. My woodworking skills are not what I would have them be, so the Gorilla Glue covers a multitude of sins. The top lateral 2x4s only cut half way into the legs, so they stick up 1 1/2 inches. That will be the thickness of plaster, minus the plywood. Not so thick, you need the wire. If you need more info, I could try to do a better job describing it. My current table is 15+ years with no problems, no wiggle.
  8. Expanded metal is the stuff they build plaster walls with. You could use hardware cloth, which is a smaller hole version of chicken wire. I usually wind up working on my wedging table, so I'm building a new bigger one for my new patio working area. In this case, bigger is better. Whatever space you have.
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  10. Mehmet, if I had $1000 and wanted a kiln, I would do something like Boris is suggesting. You can always change later, but this will definitely get you going - and maybe for less than $1000 if you find good deals on used equipment.
  11. Like a lot of potters I have large hands, my right hand has gotten huge over the last 40 years since I started working with clay. If the handle feels good to me when the mug is wet I can count on it shrinking enough that a average person will like it. People with very small hands might have a problem with them. Denice
  12. I probably bought my Bailey slab roller 20 years ago. I just bought the unit and my husband built the bi-level table for it. Bailey included the plans. It has not needed any any maintenance since we installed it. No maintenance is a big deal for me, my husband has enough things to fix around the house. My big Skutt didn't fire right last week so he needs to check out the wiring, another thing for him to fix. Denice
  13. The Bailey has chain drive on one side only-large 1/2 to 5/8th inch wide chain.I did not remove chain guard so I could see was only a peek I would favor steel rollers over soft aluminum which is super soft. I know a potter who built an electric one with cables-its always going thru cables.
  14. I have a simple slab roller my husband and I cobbled together years ago. We had scrap steel and most of the other bits lying around, it's rough and crude but it works well so we’ve never upgraded. Heavy table, shelf underneath, arborite top. Because we used scrap and all sorts of odd bits the total cost was probably under $60- We used parts of a rowing machine, weight lifting set.. For the gears, we used #40 chain sprockets and an idler sprocket to tension (on a pivot arm with a simple coil spring), bought new from a discount auto supply place, not much cost. We did consider bike gears but this was way easier. Height is adjustable on the upper roller, I honestly don’t change the height very often at all. I have a couple thicknesses of boards that I use to run the clay through with, if I want a thinner slab I use a thicker board. A piece of redi-rod mounted to the upper bearing is what adjusts the upper roller height. This allows us to adjust the rollers to parallel. Old steering wheel, more than enough torque to feed the clay through. Re your plan on using aluminium irrigation pipe, that’s great if you can do it. If you can knurl then I’m assuming you have a metal lathe? As you can see on ours, the cylinders aren’t knurled but I’ve never had an issue with it, probably because of the diameter of the pipes.
  15. After more research I decided to order the USG #1 Potters Plaster instead. I don’t know what expanded metal is but I will google it. I am also going to search on this forum for tips on building a (small) wedging table.
  16. I don't do porcelain, so if it's different than stone ware in that respect, I wouldn't know. The spin factor with stoneware is that the pug mill isn't full enough. You need the friction of the clay on the inside of the chamber to hold the mass in place. I've never reached the too soft limit on pugging clay.
  17. Not sure I belive that story. I have seen Brents sit for decades then work for more decades.An 8 year old shimpo is a NEW wheel still. You sure its not the hamster inside is aged out and cannot spin the running cage fast anymore??I think thats a better story if they are making this stuff up. Or maybe the electricity is old electricity and has lost it pep. I learned long ago that some stories do not hold water.
  18. Hydrocal doesn't have the water absorbing property of plaster. If you want to use the wedging table for drying clay, definitely plaster. Use expanded metal as a reinforcement in the plaster.
  19. I did some rough math on how many mugs a year that leave the studio. Its over 3,000 per year. I acuattly think that number may be low. You do that for few decades and handles just flow. Mugs are one of my best sellers. Thats why I make handles and sizes for all users. I will add only the small 3/4# may be one finger mugs.Like small expresso ones. I sell mugs at all my outlets and some really move product and a fast clip.Most potters my age have long ago given up on making lots of mugs.
  20. Interesting, never heard that one for any capacitor other than a super capacitor used to backup onboard memory instead of a battery. I think this is a bit incorrect so am too interested in the final explanation. For now it appears to be fiction to me. Just my first thought though.
  21. I translated your link to English -that shelve with the holes does not say what temperature it goes to? Always decide what shelve size you want and build the kiln around those dimensions. What temperature do you plan on firing to?
  22. Yesterday
  23. I too used Future in the past for my saggar, horsehair, and naked raku work, but now I use Pledge Floor Care Finish. yah yah yah, I know, it's the same old stuff/new name in the North American market... (Note, despite the similar branding, this is not the spray furniture wax.) It's hard to find in stores now because nobody has linoleum floors that need weekly waxing, so I order it online from that big river in South America. I prefer it over spray acrylic varnishes because I'm a lousy sprayer. See how it runs. And runs. And runs - when I do it. So having a wipe-on product is my savior. Others in my circle of raku bums have said they prefer paste wax because it buffs up to a softer shine, but you've already found its color problem. I generally thin it half and half with water so the finish isn't a deep thick glassy layer over the ceramic surface, although others might want that.
  24. Hello Mehmet, I recently posted that I had a downdraft kiln conversion that worked very well and it is not too expensive. Below is the link. If possible, you'd need to find an old electric kiln, even an old oval one. Cheers, Boris http://www.sebastianmarkblog.com/2018/07/gas-kiln-conversion-downdraft.html
  25. I started using clear acrylic spray paint on my Raku pieces 1 1/2 years ago with great success. I tried waxing a horsehair raku pot as an experiment and found that the process yellowed the pottery but also wiped away some of the burned areas of the horsehair. I sprayed a couple of pieces with clear matte acrylic and the white areas darkened a little but the acrylic really set the horsehair burns...
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