Rebekah Krieger Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Ok I keep thinking of this glaze!! http://www.pinterest.com/pin/111323422012924715/ can anyone assist me in finding a cone 6 version of this or tell me how I would convert it? I do not have components to mix glaze up yet, I have been ordering recipes I get from Glazemixer. It is the most stunning emerald green ever! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebekah Krieger Posted January 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 uugh, I thought I had a base recipe for cone 10 … I can't even find it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norm Stuart Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 You're looking at a very liquid glaze at temperature which is thicker at the bottom where most of the glaze runs, which is probably colored with an excess of copper oxide. The excess amounts crystallize out. A glaze like that can be as easy as mixing Ferro Frit 3269 with black Copper Oxide. This is the color produced using only 4% Copper Oxide. The glaze below is probably closer to 9% or more Copper Oxide. You can make the green darker with a pinch of cobalt oxide. It may also contain a bit of a crystallization initiator like titanium dioxide or rutile. But too much will turn it a pale green. You eliminate the crackling above by adding something, like silica, to reduce the COE. Ok I keep thinking of this glaze!! http://www.pinterest.com/pin/111323422012924715/ can anyone assist me in finding a cone 6 version of this or tell me how I would convert it? I do not have components to mix glaze up yet, I have been ordering recipes I get from Glazemixer. It is the most stunning emerald green ever! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 I call this effect broken windshield. When its thick it pools and can have flaws that leak. If its functional wares test test test. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 If you look at the edge of the platter, it looks like she's layering two glazes around the rim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Amaco makes an Antique Green, that has that effect, without layering. You just need about three coats. Sadly, it was not a cone 6 glaze, it was a low fire cone 05 glaze. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebekah Krieger Posted January 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Neil - I noticed that as well… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norm Stuart Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 This shows you what happens with roughly the same level of Copper changing around the other ingredients in the glaze. http://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/5135-can-6-oribe-green-be-modified-to-lose-shine-become-matte/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJR Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 There is no indication that this is a cone 10 glaze unless Rebby, you know this for a fact. This looks like a cone04 very shiny runny glaze. The colour effect can be achieved in oxidation with 2% copper carb and 2% red iron oxide. I know this as I have a tile that looks like this. It is terra cotta clay, white slip, then the green glaze. Lots of people ask me for it, but I am firing stoneware.You are right Norm. Looks runny. TJR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Oz Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 If you go to the English version of her website it does say the plate is earthenware. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebekah Krieger Posted January 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 I read back and realize I was reading of another glaze that i like that is cone 10. (its called orange peel red) So do you all agree with norm on how to make a similar glaze in cone 6? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Do a test, if runny and you don't your shelves will suffer. Looks like a low temp glaze.Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodrigo Zúñiga Posted December 31, 2015 Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 It does look like a low temp glaze. Probably made with 3195 (bore frit). Bo (3195) and Na(3110) glazes can develop a beautiful peacock glaze, you need CrO and cobalt oxyde. I'll try to make one and if I succeed I'll share it with you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazenerd Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 I agree with black copper oxide, with some TitaOx- rutile has too much iron that would change the color. The "crackle" effect is actually glaze/clay interface checking due to COE differentials. Looking at the raw edges on one pic shown: either porcelain of white stoneware. Reminds me very much of crystalline glaze formulation, less the seeding agent to produce crystals. Glaze application has to be higher- .40 -.50 grams per square inch. Ferro Frit 3110 -50%, SiO2 - 30%, ZNO- 20%, plus 7-8% black copper ox. Throw 3% lithium and you can cook it at cone 6-7. Nerd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 As Matt Oz notes above, Helena Andersson works in earthenware, not porcelain or stoneware. Would not 7-8% of black copper oxide push the glaze into the non-foodsafe range for copper potential leaching? Is that a glaze recipe you've used on functional ware? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazenerd Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 Was estimating from the color range I saw in pics- certainly not for functional ware. The glaze color, crackling, opacity, remind me very much of a basic crystalline formula; less the seeding agents. Missed the note on earthenware. Good looking piece. I run a similar color range in tile; also the reason I estimated that range. Edit Note: The whitish/light grey on the rim of the platter can also be caused by higher % of titanium. If it is a high ZNO recipe, TitaOx in the 4-7% range will show that color streaking. Nerd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodrigo Zúñiga Posted August 6, 2016 Report Share Posted August 6, 2016 I ended up finding one, but I don't know how to post a picture here. It seems just impossible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted August 6, 2016 Report Share Posted August 6, 2016 How do I attach an image? First, you might need to resize your image. The maximum files size for each post on this forum is 500kb. In Photoshop (or similar program) make sure your image is RGB, 72dpi, and we recommend under 600 pixels wide. Then go to File > Save for Web & Devices. You should see 4 versions of the image at differing levels of quality and file sizes. Choose the smallest file size possible without compromising your image quality. Then click Save. After you have your image resized, go to the bottom of your post and click More Reply Options, then to Attach Files at the bottom of the page. Click Choose File button. Navigate to your photo on your computer. Choose the file and click the Attach This File button. You will see a small thumbnail of your image on the left and an Add to Post button on your right. Click the Add to Post button. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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