JohnnyK Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 6 hours ago, Jaimie said: Thanks for looking into this! The rheostat part number is A60020. Here are the pics. No pix showed up...try uploading again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaimie Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 6 hours ago, JohnnyK said: No pix showed up...try uploading again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyK Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 Thanx for the pix, Jamie...What did you do to "adjust" the pot? The first thing I would do is pull the throttle bar and see if you could turn the shaft on the pot CCW manually to its stop to see if that stops the wheel from turning...if it does, then re-install the throttle bar and away you go. If it doesn't, then you'll have to replace the pot. Check at www.speedball art.com to see if you can get a replacement through them. If not, with the power off and one wire disconnected from the pot, measure the high end Ohms of the pot (the low end should be zero Ohms), record the overall physical measurements of the pot and go searching for a replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaimie Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 5 hours ago, JohnnyK said: Thanx for the pix, Jamie...What did you do to "adjust" the pot? The first thing I would do is pull the throttle bar and see if you could turn the shaft on the pot CCW manually to its stop to see if that stops the wheel from turning...if it does, then re-install the throttle bar and away you go. If it doesn't, then you'll have to replace the pot. Check at www.speedball art.com to see if you can get a replacement through them. If not, with the power off and one wire disconnected from the pot, measure the high end Ohms of the pot (the low end should be zero Ohms), record the overall physical measurements of the pot and go searching for a replacement. Yes, we tried all of that. The new pots with speedball have a longer shaft. I will try an electrical repair place. Thank you so much for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 43 minutes ago, Jaimie said: have a longer shaft. Not sure what is the issue here but it is common to cut the shaft to size. Potentiometers with long shafts are often used to accommodate varying backsets. JohnnyK 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee860 Posted June 26, 2021 Report Share Posted June 26, 2021 On 3/27/2020 at 3:01 PM, JohnnyK said: Creative Industries manual.pdfUnavailable Here is a copy of the manual...the pics are lousy but the rest of the info is good. I also have a design for a replacement splash pan... This manual isn’t available. Can it be emailed to me? Please and thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterH Posted June 26, 2021 Report Share Posted June 26, 2021 31 minutes ago, Lee860 said: This manual isn’t available. Can it be emailed to me? Please and thanks I just tried and the manual is at the link @JohnnyKprovided, suggest you try again withhttps://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=14499 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBehemoth Posted August 16, 2021 Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 I rebuilt my very old CI MP pedal last year. I wish I would have known about this site back then! I was having the same problems, either full on or full off, very little tension in the pedal, etc. etc. After opening up the pedal body I found that the foam strip that dampens the movement was pretty much non existent, the potentiometer needed to be replace and that it needed a general cleaning and greasing. It was worth the effort to rebuild it. Surprising how simple the mechanism is. Mouser Electronics had a direct replacement that works great - it costs about $30.00 . Just search for this part number on their site. RV4NAYSJ502AETI Systems Potentiometers I'm going to try to rebuild the bearings this week, they've completely locked up from non use and old age. If anyone has suggestions for replacement bearings, please let me know. Hulk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted August 16, 2021 Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 26 minutes ago, JohnBehemoth said: I'm going to try to rebuild the bearings this week, they've completely locked up from non use and old age. If anyone has suggestions for replacement bearings, please let me know All else fails, McMaster likely carries them. Gotta spend some time measuring though. Hulk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulk Posted August 16, 2021 Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 yep - inside and outside diameter, and height. Maybe start with a few drops of Liquid Wrench on those bearing seats; from there, if they don't tap out, a smidge of heat (a smidge I say!), evenly applied. Good luck - please report back. Bill Kielb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBehemoth Posted November 3, 2021 Report Share Posted November 3, 2021 The bearing replacement went relatively well, with only a few hiccups. I think when the top bearing originally failed, someone replaced it with a bearing that had the correct ID, but a larger OD and they just crammed into place and used epoxy putty to seal it up. It probably lasted years before it failed again. This is a lot of work, so I'd only recommend doing this if your bearings are completely seized up. (To test, remove the belt and see if the wheelhead free spins. ) Removal and replacement of the bearings requires the old bearing mounts to be deconstructed, so you can't save and reuse them with this method. I began by unplugging the wheel and turning the wheel on its side and removing the belt and pulley shield. This allows access to the bottom bearing. Loosen the belt by loosening the wing nut near the motor - this provides the tension to the belt. Once the belt is a little loose, just rotate the pulley and walk the belt off. Remove the pulley by loosening the two headless locking bolts. If it doesn't slide off easily, just soak it in "PB B'laster" spray. (I ended up using a lot of this spray, so you might want to wear gloves and safety glasses). Next, turn the wheel upside down and brace it up so that as you pound down on the wheelhead there is some room for the wheelhead to drop. If things are really rusty, soak the axle and bearing in a little Blaster. Using a piece of hardwood, protect the wheelhead axle as you gently hammer down on the axel. This will allow you to use gear puller to pull the bottom bearing off. Once the bottom bearing has been removed from the axle you can turn the wheel right side up and remove the wheelhead. Next, remove the upper bearing from the wheelhead. Mine was completely seized onto the axel and I had to cut it off (gently) with a cutting disk. The wheelhead is a combination of plastic and metal, so be careful when cutting near it. (If you completely blow it, I think Shimpo makes a 25mm wheelhead that you just add whatever length axle you need. This was my plan B that I never had to do) After cutting off the upper bearing, I soaked the axle in a mixture of water and molasses (10:1 ratio) for about 10 days. Vintage motorcycle restorers use this to gently remove rust from metal parts and it worked remarkably well. I just lowered the axle into a bottle filled with this mixture and supported the wheelhead so it wouldn't fall over. With the wheel head soaking and out of the way, I was able to remove the old bearing mounts. The direct fit replacement is an NTN 6005LLU/LP03 which I was able to find at misumiusa.com (originally I had tried a pair of bearing I bought from McMaster, but I didn't like them, so I found the originals, which I'm super happy with) With the new bearings in hand I was able to design a new bearing mount. I made both the top and bottom mount the same, it really doesn't matter even though the originals are different heights. The main important parts are that the four mounting bolts end up in the same place and bearings line up so the wheelhead can slide right in. A friend machined the bearing mounts out of Delrin, but they could have been made by 3D printing or by sending a 3D model to a service bureau for printing. Even though the original set up did not have a shoulder bushing, I decided to add one because I wanted to know that the wheelhead would bear directly onto the inner bearing ring. I just ordered the closest size from McMaster and cut it down by clamping my hacksaw to the table with a 6mm offset and just ran the bearing back and forth for 10 minutes to slowly cut through the flange. (https://www.mcmaster.com/7119N182/_) After test fitting everything, I cleaned up the table and ran a bead of silicone adhesive where the top mount would seat. Then I bolted everything together loosely, installed the wheelhead, made sure everything could free spin easily and tightened everything down. I remounted the pulley and belt, tightened everything and now the wheel works good as almost new. Hulk, Pres, MikeS and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBehemoth Posted November 4, 2021 Report Share Posted November 4, 2021 Here are some photos, if they will upload... The pulley beneath the table The lower bearing mount with a detail shot Using a gear puller (usually rentable at an auto parts store) to pull of the lower bearing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBehemoth Posted November 4, 2021 Report Share Posted November 4, 2021 Here is the seized upper bearing Cutting off the bearing because you can't use heat due to the plastic parts of the wheel head. I'm using a large washer to protect the bottom of the wheel head. The cleaned axle after a couple of weeks in the molasses dip The crappy original bearing mounts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBehemoth Posted November 4, 2021 Report Share Posted November 4, 2021 New and old bearing mounts - the new ones are identical to each other to simplify fabrication Slicing off the shoulder bushing at the required height (remember to adjust the belt and the motor-side pulley to compensate for the height of the bushing, which forces the wheel head higher. Final test fit before sealing and tightening everything up! Hulk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyK Posted November 4, 2021 Report Share Posted November 4, 2021 Way to go, John! While you had the unit apart, did you notice how the wheelhead is mounted to the shaft? Mine seems to be split at the outermost groove which has cause a slight warp in the head and I was contemplating getting a new wheelhead fabricated from aluminum. If there was someway another manufacturer's head would work, I would consider that alternative... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBehemoth Posted November 4, 2021 Report Share Posted November 4, 2021 Initially I was thinking about replacing my wheelhead after I realized the top bearing had seized completely to the axle, but decided to try to cut it off and if I had messed up I would have replaced it. Luckily everything worked out for me. I could never figure out how the platen was attached to the axle, I think it is all just molded as one piece at the factory. However if I had failed, my replacement plan was to use the Shimpo VL - Whisper wheelhead, which has a 25mm mount with two locking threaded bolts underneath. You'd need to source a length of 25mm steel for the shaft. https://www1.ceramics.nidec-shimpo.com/parts-list/ This wheel head is 14" diameter. If you wanted a 12" diameter, just use the RK-Whisper wheelhead. The good thing about using an existing mfg wheelhead is that the bat pins are already in the right place and they are probably trued up at the factory. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBehemoth Posted November 4, 2021 Report Share Posted November 4, 2021 A couple of other things. When replacing the wheelhead, you'll need to keep the axle/shaft to 25mm, not 3/4" or 1" because of the bearings and the pulley interior diameter dims. I took many other pictures while rebuilding both my pedal and the bearing replacement, so if you need something specific, just let me know. Bill Kielb and Hulk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itlam Posted November 17, 2021 Report Share Posted November 17, 2021 (edited) Hello all! I've read through this forum since I saw a craigslist listing for a Creative Industries MP pottery wheel for sale at $200. Looks like it's been around for 20 years and hasn't been used since then. Should I go for it or should I be cautious about getting it? Attached some photos I got! The owner said it works well and I can come check it out but I'm relatively new to ceramics. Edited November 17, 2021 by itlam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulk Posted November 18, 2021 Report Share Posted November 18, 2021 Looks good. Does it run quiet, smooth? There's lots of info here on care and repair. My guess would be, could be a great deal for someone handy. The upper bearing plate appears to be on the same plane as the table top; I prefer design where that upper bearing is well up and away from wet. That said, per above, the unit can be disassembled - in the case of a perfectly (err, well) functioning unit, lube and maintain against wet/corrosion, play on! Looks like that listing has been deleted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeS Posted March 6, 2022 Report Share Posted March 6, 2022 On 11/3/2021 at 10:17 PM, JohnBehemoth said: New and old bearing mounts - the new ones are identical to each other to simplify fabrication Slicing off the shoulder bushing at the required height (remember to adjust the belt and the motor-side pulley to compensate for the height of the bushing, which forces the wheel head higher. Final test fit before sealing and tightening everything up! Where did you get those replacement bearings? Location/store and part number information ? I still have to get the upper bearing housing (???) off and then pull that bearing too. I haven't pulled either bearing yet but have taken the wheelhead off. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted March 6, 2022 Report Share Posted March 6, 2022 (edited) Send a message to JohnnyK here as he has one in middle Cal. Look him up eralier on this thread and send him a personal message. Edited March 6, 2022 by Mark C. MikeS 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulk Posted March 6, 2022 Report Share Posted March 6, 2022 Hi MikeS, See John's post, above, "The direct fit replacement ...NTN 6005LLU/LP03..." Still listed by Misumi, also Grainger, and several others. I'd recommend measuring height, ID and OD afore ordering, at which point you'd already know if the bearing could be removed without damaging/destroying the bearing holder. See also MTN Flange Block Bearing, might save some headache? I'm seeing two and four bolt options, but didn't go so far as cross referencing the dimensions, etc. The models with zerk fitting, oh, I like that. Looks like MTN has stateside tech support: BearingQuickReferenceGuide-EN-Web.pdf (ntn.ca) see pg 2 Good luck! Post back your results please. Bill Kielb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeS Posted March 21, 2022 Report Share Posted March 21, 2022 I was able to get my upper mount off without any damage. I pulled both bearings but had to get creative with the puller to reach the upper bearing. From there I was able to find the NACHI bearings from a local supply store. I have the bearings on and wheel back together. Thanks for all the info and advice. I had previously done some repair work to the splash guard using a fiberglass repair kit. I put pieces of 1/2" PVC about 10-12" under the lip on each side up to where it starts to curve. This lets me have some good strength to the "lip" of the splash guard. I do need to paint it and could post some pictures. I do not have a book or manual for this wheel but is there also some sort or rear splash guard? It seems like there should be a rear tray/guard... I just have this one piece and when throwing something water and slurry are thrown out the rear. It's OK out on the patio as I have it facing the yard but would like something if I move it indoors. Thanks all! Hulk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbie DeSelms Posted January 29, 2023 Report Share Posted January 29, 2023 I have one of the Creative Industries MP wheels. I need a new splash pan. Do any of the ones listed here work on the old wheels? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated . Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vpwilkie Posted January 12 Report Share Posted January 12 I have and old CI jr. I think the berrings are shot. Still runs but makes variable loud noises. Has anyone replaced the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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