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@Morgan I'm hardly the expert around here, but its my understanding that at some point you need to work some "new" clay into the old and let it age.  There's probably a bit more to it than that.  So far I have been able to handle my "reclaim" a few pounds at a time, like 10 to 12.  For larger amounts, and repeated reclaim, things are probably different.

And no, you're not going to retain ALL the fines - even I don't and I'm the driest thrower I know.  That's why working some new clay in helps, as I understand it.  If things really get out of whack then you're adding ball clay or whatever is appropriate for the body you're working with, or epsom salts, or Veegum etc etc.  Stuff that's beyond me.

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@Morgan it sounds like you’re doing everything right. I’ve found clays that have a reputation for being difficult to reclaim benefit from being very thoroughly slurry mixed before laying the slip out to dry. Getting it lump free or very close to it has the added benefit of drastically reducing the amount of wedging you have to do if you don’t own a pug mill. 

Let us know how your batch turned out!

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Morgan:

Frost is blended a bit different than most clay bodies. It has a high COE value, because it has high flux levels. Secondly, Frost uses a speciality plasticizer called BentoneMA. If you plan on using Frost, and want to maintain the translucency: then it matters. One off use, does not matter.

Tom

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So just to make sure I read you, translucency aside, reclaiming it is normal/fine? Just curious would reclaim be even more prone to cracking than it already is?

I am guessing "BentoneMA" is water soluble and that is how you lose it in the process...?

Edited by Morgan
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Morgan:

If the Frost is combined with other clays as part of your total reclaim: then no specific protocols are necessary. If you plan on using Frost specifically, then you do need to follow specific protocols. Yes, Frost reclaim would be more prone to cracking. Frost has 30-32% sodium based flux which in part plays a role in its rapid drying/cracking. Bentone MA is highly processed hectorite, with magnesium removed. To give you an idea of how fine BentoneMA is: OM4 runs 0.55 microns, Taylor 0.28 microns, and BentoneMA, below 0.15 microns. This means it does not take much water or throwing to wash it out. If you plan on reclaiming Frost long term, then it becomes an issue. 

Tom

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@Morgan, have you tried slaking some of your dry scrap and seeing if it actually needs additional plasticizer? If you have been diligent in saving your slops you might not need anything. Re which one to use if you do need one, Bentone MA is what used to be called Macaloid. I have used that and also  Veegum (it's not a gum either, it is a water washed white smectite clay, extremely fine particle size also).

If you do need to add some plasticizer I would weigh out a KG of dry scrap and then try just 0.50 - 0.75% of either Bentone MA (Macaloid) or Veegum. If you try the Veegum be careful which Veegum you get as there other forms of Veegum available, you want either Veegum or Veegum T. Whichever you use it has to be thoroughly mixed with hot water before adding to your slaked clay. I add the Bentone MA (or Veegum) to the water then whiz it with a handheld stick blender for about 20 minutes. It will go thick and very smooth, might need to add more water if it gels up too much. Once you have the dry clay slaked down add the Bentone MA or Veegum mixture to the clay slurry and continue mixing it until it's all blended. When trying out grolleg bodies I used 3% Veegum, it made a very plastic claybody that was quite sticky, I probably could have cut that amount back.

Hansen has the analysis for Bentone MA (aka Macaloid) containing MgO (approx 23%). Article on it here and on Veegum from Vanderbuilt minerals here. Either one will get the job done.

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A small amount of Nerd's reclaim mix makes a noticeable difference in four to five gallons of reclaim slurry, in my experience.
I'd tried between a quarter to third cup of the recommended mixture, eight parts of silica, one part OM4 ball clay, one part feldspar.
Now I'll use it if the reclaim contains significant amounts of re-reclaim and/or re-re-claim...

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Ok thanks all for that info that is invaluable. Right now my plan and process has been saving every drop of throwing slurry I can and mix that with dry scraps and water as needed. In the past few days I made my first batch and it did not seem to be short at all wedging it, the only difference I could see was visually maybe not as white. I did use it for a ton of handles and, so far at least, seems ok.

To be honest, if I could get away with just using it for attachments and random things that would be a win in my book. Regardless, I will test throwing it at some point just to see if it does need anything added as you suggested Min. 

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2 hours ago, Hulk said:

A small amount of Nerd's reclaim mix makes a noticeable difference in four to five gallons of reclaim slurry, in my experience.
I'd tried between a quarter to third cup of the recommended mixture, eight parts of silica, one part OM4 ball clay, one part feldspar.
Now I'll use it if the reclaim contains significant amounts of re-reclaim and/or re-re-claim...

@glazenerd @Hulk Duly Noted and Bookmarked as Glazenerd's Reclaim Booster

Oh yeah and assuming that's by weight ...

Edited by Pyewackette
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Ya it all dried just the same. I am used to color being a bit off but frost is so freaking white it’s just much more obvious. I did throw some test tiles with my first reclaim and it seemed just as slippy as fresh so we shall see. That said I don’t see myself making many large serving plates with it :)

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i have given this recipe to members of this forum.  there is a very easy to use red clay made of only 2 ingredients so everyone was  positive it was not good.  someone did the chemistry and discovered it has all it needs.     it is really very plastic, no grog, strong stoneware, pretty red.

try it  50 pounds redart, 50 pounds XX saggar.   water.   makes a lot of great clay.   i no longer use colored clay,  just white.

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