Ceramics.np.04 Posted February 17, 2022 Report Share Posted February 17, 2022 I have an old second (third? fourth?!) hand kiln that should be able to reach up to 1300 degrees but seems to be getting stuck at around 200 degrees less than I need. I managed to do a bisque firing but when trying to do a glaze firing the kiln stopped at 1075 degrees celsius and then started to cool whilst still on. The controller (Ipco 3300) showed 'END' even though it had not reached the temperature I wanted and did not show an error message. I have no idea about the history of the kiln, when the elements were last changed etc etc. I (think I've) checked the controller settings to make sure nothing is set to hinder the maximum temperature. I have read about working out if it is the relays or the elements? I am a total rookie so don't really know where to start. Is this the best first move to troubleshoot the issue? Or could it be something simpler? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted February 17, 2022 Report Share Posted February 17, 2022 If the controller thinks it reached temperature, but it clearly didn't even get close, I would start with checking on the condition of the thermocouple and/or the thermocouple and thermocouple wire connections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ceramics.np.04 Posted February 17, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2022 @neilestrick I had to replace the thermocouple when I bought the kiln as it had been damaged beyond repair in transit. The thermocouple was telling me the temperature at the end of the firing was 1075 so it does seem to be reading the temperature correctly. I had programmed the kiln to 1260 degrees though so I am confused as to why it stopped Could it be that if the temperature fails to rise a certain amount in a set time (or starts to drop) the firing stops itself? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted February 18, 2022 Report Share Posted February 18, 2022 3 hours ago, Ceramics.np.04 said: @neilestrick I had to replace the thermocouple when I bought the kiln as it had been damaged beyond repair in transit. The thermocouple was telling me the temperature at the end of the firing was 1075 so it does seem to be reading the temperature correctly. I had programmed the kiln to 1260 degrees though so I am confused as to why it stopped Could it be that if the temperature fails to rise a certain amount in a set time (or starts to drop) the firing stops itself? With the controllers we use here in the US, they put up an error code if the firing slows. Does your controller have error codes, or does it simply say 'End' when it shuts down, regardless of why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterH Posted February 18, 2022 Report Share Posted February 18, 2022 9 hours ago, neilestrick said: With the controllers we use here in the US, they put up an error code if the firing slows. Does your controller have error codes, or does it simply say 'End' when it shuts down, regardless of why? This manual for the IPCO ST 3300 seems to only have these error codeshttp://www.rlkilnservices.co.uk/downloads/controller_manuals/TC3300_Manual.pdf OP has "Ipco 3300", no idea if it's the same Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilly Posted February 18, 2022 Report Share Posted February 18, 2022 14 hours ago, Ceramics.np.04 said: Could it be that if the temperature fails to rise a certain amount in a set time (or starts to drop) the firing stops itself? Yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ceramics.np.04 Posted April 15, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2022 Apologies for the very late reply! I've checked the controller and I'm 99% sure it's nothing to do with the settings so I can rule out thermocouple and the controller. What would be my next move? I don't even know how to go about changing the elements (everything is welded together at the sides and back). I'm assuming that because it's only 225°C under the max temp that it must be the elements...or could it be that one of the relays is a dud and so one of the elements isn't working? Thank you so much for trying to help! I really appreciate any advice you can give me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick White Posted April 15, 2022 Report Share Posted April 15, 2022 Conventional wisdom points to elements being worn or broken. To test if an element is broken, slip small scraps of paper behind/under each element and turn the kiln on for about 5 minutes. If an element is heating, that scrap of paper will be scorched. If an element is broken or not heating for some other reason (such as the relay is failed in the off position), that scrap of paper will not be burned. Some kilns can manage to get to 1000℃ with one element out, but can't go further on partial power. If all elements are heating, then the probable cause is the elements are too worn to produce enough heat to reach the higher temperatures in the firing. Replacing worn element coils is done from inside the kiln, so don't worry about the welded case. You will have to remove the controller box to expose the electrical connections of the elements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ceramics.np.04 Posted May 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2022 Thank you so much, @Dick White! I tested the elements and they are all heating equally (but also slowly and unenthusiastically) so I think I need to replace them. What do I need to look at when buying new elements? I have all the information from the front of the kiln. What else, apart from voltage, do I need to consider? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick White Posted May 3, 2022 Report Share Posted May 3, 2022 Elements produce heat as a function of their electrical resistance at a particular voltage. Their construction is a function of the length and diameter of each coil and how they are interconnected (in series or in parallel). A replacement set can be constructed only when all these factors are known. You might seek the recommendation from your local pottery supplier for someone or local company that specializes in the construction of kiln elements. I only know of sources here in the colonies, I don't know of anything on your side of the pond. The rating plate as in your picture only assists the electrician in knowing what sort of wiring and receptacle to install for powering the kiln. Perhaps one of the group members from the UK can give a better suggestion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterH Posted May 8, 2022 Report Share Posted May 8, 2022 Stumbled across this while looking for something else, don't know if it is of relevance .... at least it's UK. Kiln Elements, Repair, Servicing and Support https://www.potterycrafts.co.uk/Products/kiln-elements-servicingTo get a quote on your elements please contact us with full kiln details as specified above. We are also able to match elements from other kilns if the old elements are returned so that we can measure the wire, coils and length. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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