GoodKarma Posted November 6, 2019 Report Share Posted November 6, 2019 HeIlo all, Well, I got my first TWO glaze fires done! WOOHOO!!! Mostly happy with the results, but some came out needing another coat of glaze (the stain I used was VERY light and pieces came out looking plain/white/dull). I had some crazing on this bowl, (which I assume is because I put the glaze on too thick), it only happened with this one bowl and only on the inside.... SO.. 1. If I re-fire it, will the colors on the outside of the bowl fade? 2. Should I re-fire as-is, or should I add a thin layer of clear glaze on the inside? Thanks in advance for any & all info!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted November 6, 2019 Report Share Posted November 6, 2019 Those are very fine craze lines, I don't think that glaze will fit your clay body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulk Posted November 6, 2019 Report Share Posted November 6, 2019 Hi Karma! Good news on that crazed interior would be that the pattern is big, hence you're close; not sure if firing again would heal the craze. ooh, per Liamb's post, looked closer, aaah. Do the craze lines form squares/shapes that are less than 1/8 inch? ...I din' look closely enough... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoodKarma Posted November 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2019 It didn't happen to any of the other pots though, which makes me think I just applied the glaze too thick on this one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoodKarma Posted November 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2019 Also, this batch got over-fired.... could that have anything to do with this bowl crazing? (again, it was the only one that crazed... same clay, same glaze as the others) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted November 6, 2019 Report Share Posted November 6, 2019 The problem is, if it crazes this bad when it's thick, it's still not fitting. You may be surprised to find that the other pieces have crazing too, but lighter, or that they may craze over time and with use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoodKarma Posted November 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2019 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted November 6, 2019 Report Share Posted November 6, 2019 No need to start frowny facing now, you're two firings in! It took me probably 10 just to get a single glaze suited to my clay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeU Posted November 7, 2019 Report Share Posted November 7, 2019 7 hours ago, Hulk said: Do the craze lines form squares/shapes that are less than 1/8 inch? What is the significance of the pattern of the crazing? What does it tell us? Thanks- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted November 7, 2019 Report Share Posted November 7, 2019 6 minutes ago, LeeU said: What is the significance of the pattern of the crazing? What does it tell us? Thanks- The further apart the lines are, the closer the fit. If they're really close together, the glaze needs a bigger change in chemistry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulk Posted November 7, 2019 Report Share Posted November 7, 2019 Yup, more breaks means more COE difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoodKarma Posted November 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2019 I realized after what you said that this bowl was stoneware, and the rest were porcelain, so I guess it IS a bad fit... suppose I'll keep this bowl for myself as a fruit bowl. Second part of question though.... does the color of glaze/stain FADE if they get re-fired? (I have some pieces that didn't craze, (porcelain), but the colors aren't appealing, so I'd like to re-glaze and re-fire) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted November 7, 2019 Report Share Posted November 7, 2019 15 minutes ago, GoodKarma said: Second part of question though.... does the color of glaze/stain FADE if they get re-fired? (I have some pieces that didn't craze, (porcelain), but the colors aren't appealing, so I'd like to re-glaze and re-fire) Glazes tend to run more in a second firing as there has already been heatwork applied to them. Underglaze colour is pretty stable but glaze colours can shift. If you do refire the pieces then for your kiln shelf protection put thin waster cookies of clay under the pots so if the glaze runs it will land on the waster cookie and not your shelf. For your porcelain you can put some kiln wash on them but not necessary for stoneware (wasters can be reused). Refires are a crap shoot, sometimes they work and sometimes not so much but if you don't like the pots the way they are now theres nothing to loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilly Posted November 8, 2019 Report Share Posted November 8, 2019 20 hours ago, GoodKarma said: does the color of glaze/stain FADE if they get re-fired? I've re-fired ^6 stuff at ^04 and the colour can change completely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilly Posted November 8, 2019 Report Share Posted November 8, 2019 I've also re-fired stuff that self-destructed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted November 9, 2019 Report Share Posted November 9, 2019 karma, nothing from me about your question but i noticed that your carving tool could be improved. do not know what you use but there is a good tool that just cuts through the colored part into the clay sharply, leaving straight lines. i use a speedball scratch knife number 113. it comes in a package with a number 112 for under $5. both are useful but the curve of the 113 can be made tighter by squeezing the end with a pliers so it is not so wide. you might like using it if you plan to carve much of your work. it fits into a pen holder easily. good luck with your firings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulk Posted November 9, 2019 Report Share Posted November 9, 2019 Hulk like Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted November 12, 2019 Report Share Posted November 12, 2019 hulk, that is the exact opposite bevel to the one i use. and yours is flat so it does not gather and disperse the crumbs. that is what the curved "like an eagle talon" shape does for me. the very best one was discontinued in the 1970s and i think i bought the last two in existence back then. long worn down too much to use. the Speedball is a poor substitute but the best one i have found. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulk Posted November 12, 2019 Report Share Posted November 12, 2019 Oh, aye that; here's the 112 and 113. I'm cutting, grinding, heating, bending, and sharpening cutting and trimming tools from available materials (e.g. old/dull saw blades) where I'd like to try something a bit different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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