Silver State Studios Posted November 1, 2019 Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 I just got a used sitter kiln that does not make the witness cones droop over. I’m having a hard time trying to figure out what I’m doing wrong. It looks like the clay is bisqued now. The glaze came out all wrong. Idk what to do. Any suggestions? Please help me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted November 1, 2019 Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 Sounds like it's not reaching the correct temperature. Kilns make cones droop by reaching a certain temperature within a certain time. If either of those is insufficient, the clay will also not fire to completion. Maybe your kiln is under rated (should have a temperature rating on the side), or the elements are broken or worn and need to be replaced, could be a switch that doesn't work or a wire that has come off. Time to call a tech or start doing some research and see if you can diagnose and fix it yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted November 1, 2019 Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 @Silver State Studios Tell us how you're doing the firing- which cone, your turnup schedule, etc. Does the sitter have a timer? Is the timer turning off the kiln before the cone bends? What is the brand, model, max temp, voltage and phase of the kiln? You can find all that on the serial plate on the control box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver State Studios Posted November 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 It is a Evenheat sitter kiln. I was trying to bisque fire to 04. The kiln has 4 switches and I turned one on to start. Then in 4 hours I turned the next from the bottom up. Then in another 4 hours I turned the 3rd switch on. And finally after another 3 hours I turned the last switch on. The timer was on 14 hours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver State Studios Posted November 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 The switches are new to me. My last kiln just had low/medium/high. It was much easier to deal with but the elements are coming out of the sides. I have no idea how to handle the turning on of the switches for a glaze load. I had a glaze load fail where some things fired properly and some pieces were a total loss Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulk Posted November 1, 2019 Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 Hi Silver State Studios, To me the sitter is part of the overall strategy. I'm setting cones on each shelf, hence feedback from five areas (usually run four levels, plus the sitter's cone); am doing "cone packs" now, (a target, guide, and guard cone, that is, the target, one below and one up). Being able to see the cone packs -at least some of them - from the peep holes is a big plus. Be sure to wear the appropriate eye protection! With some experience, the color of the kiln's glow can also be a guide for you (again about the eye protection; the red light will damage your eyes). I also really like having a pyrometer for real time feedback. Likely that the number won't line up perfectly with the cone's slump - it's time and temp, not just temp - but it's close. Back to the overall strategy, I wouldn't like being fully dependent on just a kiln sitter only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted November 1, 2019 Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 Oh you don't need to wait 4 hours between switch flipping I don't think, I'd flip the bottom switch for maybe 4 hours, and then just flip them one an hour after that. 14 hours is JUST around the amount of time to reach cone 04 in a slow bisque schedule. Don't be afraid to set the timer higher again if you're close. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted November 1, 2019 Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 What shape and type of cone are you placing in the kiln sitter? How are you placing the cone? Might pay to check your sitter . What you are telling us is that the sitter/ latch is dropping before required temp/ cone required is reached? Bit confused here. Bisque fire fine? If drops before yoyr witness cone it can be restarted and watched till witness touches its toes. Glaze fire not fine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted November 1, 2019 Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 what experience do you have in firing any kiln? have you found the label that is fixed onto the kiln, usually on the side of the part that projects out away from the outside wall? it has a lot of information that Neil would use to tell you more about your particular evenheat kiln. look for it, write down everything it says and post it here. take a photo of the interior of the kiln, you mention some elements coming out. take photos of them and take photos of the switches. take a photo of the sitter. inside and out. post them here. be careful to resize them so they fit. neil cannot diagnose the problem without seeing the symptoms. he is a true kiln guru but needs info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver State Studios Posted November 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 i don't know how to resize the photos i took. I have very little experience in pottery and kiln firing. I'm self taught and about a year in. I had a wonderful small 120 volt kiln but it's element broke. I live in the desert in the middle of nowhere and noone services them that will come out here. I see in the pics i took that it is a Dawson LT-3K I tried one photo at a time with no luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted November 1, 2019 Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 18 minutes ago, Silver State Studios said: I see in the pics i took that it is a Dawson LT-3K Okay, good start, the LT-3K is the kiln sitter, the part of the kiln that you put the mini cone or bar in that shuts the kiln off when it's bent but there should be another metal label / spec plate for the actual kiln itself. 20 minutes ago, Silver State Studios said: I had a wonderful small 120 volt kiln but it's element broke. Elements wear out and need to be replaced, once this is done the kiln should be good to go again. It's important to get the right element for the kiln if you replace it. Again, there should be a label / spec plate on it somewhere with info about name brand, amperage and voltage. 24 minutes ago, Silver State Studios said: i don't know how to resize the photos i took Are you posting here from your phone or ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted November 1, 2019 Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 @Silver State Studios I fired an Evenheat with on/off switches for several years. It was a good kiln, but a little touchy since you can't put it on low. You have to make sure that everything is completely dry so they don't blow up when bisque firing since you can't do a low temp preheat. Here's how I used to fire it for bisque, with good results: 1. Bottom switch on, with the lid propped 3-4 inches, for 1 hour. 2. Lower the lid to 1 inch, for 1 hour. 3. Close the lid, for 1 hour. 4. Turn on the remaining switches, one at a time, in one hour increments. The first time you do it, you'll need to set the timer way too high, like 20 hours. When the kiln shuts off you can then figure out how long it actually took, and set the timer for about 1/2 hour longer than that from then on. The timer does not control how long the firing takes to reach temperature, it's just a countdown that will turn of the kiln when it hits zero. For glaze firing, you can skip step one, as long as everything is dry. You'll have to set the timer long for the first glaze firing as well, and figure out how long it will actually take. The key to using a sitter with a timer is to always follow the same firing schedule. Replacing elements is not all that difficult. There are instructional videos on most of the kiln manufacturer's web sites. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted November 1, 2019 Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 You live in the desert, I live on an island. Trust me you can learn to do most things. After what Neil has said if kiln sitter is dropping before witness cone is bending, pick up the dropped thingie and replace the latch, i now put a weight on it but others just reposition without weight,, repress the button in centre of sitter and watch carefully till witness cone touches its toes. I am guessing you dont have a sitter gauge so looking at the side view of the drop bar it should be just off the vertical. The catch latch should be fully 'latched" not just holding on if you know what I mean. Mini cone bars for sitters work the best but have fired with mini triangular cones. Consistency helps. Keep asking the questions. Not boring eh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver State Studios Posted November 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 7 hours ago, Min said: Okay, good start, the LT-3K is the kiln sitter, the part of the kiln that you put the mini cone or bar in that shuts the kiln off when it's bent but there should be another metal label / spec plate for the actual kiln itself. Elements wear out and need to be replaced, once this is done the kiln should be good to go again. It's important to get the right element for the kiln if you replace it. Again, there should be a label / spec plate on it somewhere with info about name brand, amperage and voltage. Are you posting here from your phone or ? i tried both i downloaded them onto my laptop with no luck. Also tried from i phone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver State Studios Posted November 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver State Studios Posted November 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver State Studios Posted November 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted November 1, 2019 Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 Cone 8 kiln, should be able to reach cone 6 for glaze firing, nice find Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted November 2, 2019 Report Share Posted November 2, 2019 3 hours ago, Silver State Studios said: i tried both i downloaded them onto my laptop with no luck. Also tried from i phone Check out this video, a bit tedious but basically it will give you an idea of what others here have been saying. Note this person speed cools her kiln, this can cause issues. You may just prefer to wait longer and just let it cool naturally for a day before cracking the lid and opening the ports. NICE looking Kiln! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted November 2, 2019 Report Share Posted November 2, 2019 congratulations! you are one of only a few new members who figured out how to post pictures! very good. you are on your way to a fascinating future working with clay and making things that please you. there will be lots of things that will have you questioning what you are doing but you can see from the answers you have here that there IS help out there. just think things through and when you realize you are stuck, ask. just give lots of info so you can get the right answer sooner. ( i have been firing for years but had a kiln given to me that had a timer. never used one in over 40 years. who knew it would shut off the kiln because i never set a number on it?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver State Studios Posted November 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2019 I want to thank everyone that is helping me try to figure this out. I am going to try a glaze load today. I will let everyone know how it turns out tomorrow. Thank you again. This is a super helpful place and I’m so grateful for all the advice. I’m glad I found you all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted November 2, 2019 Report Share Posted November 2, 2019 Your cone supports are backwards. The short side should stick out. That's the same kiln I had. It'll work well. You could always add an external digital controller if you don't like the switches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver State Studios Posted November 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2019 I will turn the cone supports around. I am getting ready to fire a glaze load at cone 6. I have witness cones I can put on each shelf. And I have the same glaze on the same clay on 3 different pieces so I can put one on each shelf to see if there’s any differences in the shelves. I will check in before firing tomorrow morning to see if there’s any last minute advice. The cone support in backward was important I’m sure. Thank you all for your help and advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted November 3, 2019 Report Share Posted November 3, 2019 Do a log of all your firings and results . Time taken, temp per hour , ramp per hour etc, is a great habit to get into. Then if things vary it can indicate sthing going funny. Remember if kiln flicks off before cones drop , switch it back on and continue. Watch it as the sitter wont drop again, you're the one!! Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver State Studios Posted November 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 On 11/2/2019 at 8:29 AM, neilestrick said: I just wanted to let everyone know that my glaze load come out great thanks to all of the help and advice that I got on here. You guys are wonderful and I really appreciate all of your words of wisdom that you shared with me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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